A 65-year-old woman from Togo died two months after being hospitalized, and her doctors believe her decades-long use of skin-lightening creams caused her fatal cancer. Her case is one of several recently reported in medical journals linking these products to cancers in African women, leading dermatologists to push for stricter regulations.
Darker skin naturally contains melanin, which provides some protection against sun damage that can lead to cancer. “People with darker skin have a natural SPF of about 15 just from their pigmentation,” explains Prof. Ncoza Dlova, head of dermatology at the University of KwaZulu-Natal in South Africa. “When they remove that melanin with lightening creams, they’re stripping away their natural defense.”
Estimates suggest that between 25% and 80% of women in African countries use skin-lightening products. The preference for lighter skin has deep roots, influenced in part by colonial-era beauty standards.
Dlova and her colleagues are documenting over 55 cancer cases linked to these creams, with patients from countries like Mali and Senegal. “If we’re seeing self-induced skin cancer, that’s a major red flag,” she says. “We need to take action.”
The global market for skin-lightening products is expanding, projected to grow from $10.7 billion to $18.1 billion by 2033. Some reports even suggest these products are being used on babies and young children.
Dlova calls them “a health hazard that needs urgent attention.” Her clinic in Durban sees daily cases of skin problems tied to lightening creams—ranging from stubborn fungal infections and steroid-induced acne to permanent stretch marks.
The Togo patient had three large, painful cancerous tumors on her neck. Before seeking hospital care, she tried antibiotics, antiseptics, and herbal remedies without success. Doctors removed one tumor, but the others were too close to blood vessels, and she couldn’t afford chemotherapy. She admitted to using creams containing hydroquinone and strong steroids for 30 years.
In another case from Senegal, eight women developed cancer after using similar products for about 20 years on average. Two of them died.
Hydroquinone, a common skin-lightening agent, has been banned in South Africa since 1990, with Rwanda, Ivory Coast, Tanzania, Kenya, and Ghana following suit due to concerns over ochronosis—a severe, irreversible skin condition. However, enforcement is weak, and the products remain widely available in markets and beauty shops.
The addition of steroids to these creams is a newer trend. While topical steroids are medically used for conditions like eczema, they also lighten skin—a side effect exploited in cosmetics. When combined with hydroquinone, they can have a dangerous “synergistic effect,” warns Dlova.
The International League of Dermatological Societies (ILDS) has issued warnings about the misuse of potent steroids and is urging governments to tighten regulations. The issue extends beyond Africa, with India also reporting widespread problems, says ILDS president Prof. Henry Lim.
After South Africa banned hydroquinone, the market shifted—but the risks remain.Dermatologist Dlova notes that while skin bleaching complications had decreased for a time, there’s been a sharp rise in cases over the past decade. “We’re now seeing severe consequences like skin cancer, which wasn’t previously linked to bleaching. This progression from irreversible pigmentation disorders to cancer shows how serious the problem has become,” she explains.
Dlova believes social media’s growth has fueled the trend, with beauty filters that lighten skin tone creating unrealistic standards. “Smartphone filters that make skin appear smoother and lighter contribute to the problem,” she says.
Addressing this issue requires a multi-sector approach. “Marketing, social media, and the fashion industry all play a part. When brands exclusively use lighter-skinned Black models, they send the message that lighter equals more beautiful. We need more diversity in advertising to challenge this perception,” Dlova emphasizes.
The doctor also advocates for early education: “We should teach children in preschool to appreciate their natural skin tone and the importance of sunscreen.” While some medical conditions may require supervised use of lightening creams, Dlova stresses these should only be used under professional care.
The International League of Dermatological Societies is pushing for more affordable prescription options to prevent people from turning to potentially harmful over-the-counter products. “Making safer treatments accessible is crucial,” Dlova concludes.
