Jess Cartner-Morley on fashion: how to embrace an hourglass silhouette without the traditional housewife associations.

Jess Cartner-Morley on fashion: how to embrace an hourglass silhouette without the traditional housewife associations.

The resurgence of hourglass silhouettes—blazers nipped at the waist, belts threaded through jeans, tops tucked in—reveals just how deeply fashion is woven into culture. And it’s complicated. On one hand, I’m tired of the oversized, masculine blazer trend and ready for something new. But at the same time, the word “hourglass” sets off my feminist alarm bells. Clothing is how we present ourselves to the world, and there’s something slightly Handmaid’s Tale about emphasizing your waist-to-hip ratio—don’t you think?

Still, I’m genuinely drawn to the new hourglass look. I’m just cautious about what it might represent. It reminds me of experiencing this year’s unusually hot British summer: waking up to endless sunny days felt like a blessing, even while knowing that climate warming is deeply troubling. Both feelings are real.

If you’re intrigued by the hourglass shape but wary of its traditional associations, here’s a simple approach: create curves with pieces that aren’t overtly feminine. An hourglass silhouette doesn’t have to mean squeezing into a tight dress. It feels more modern—and less predictable—when you use trousers, a shirt, a buttoned blazer, or a mix of these.

Take this outfit, for example. The silhouette is undeniably womanly, with a wide belt cinching the waist, lightly padded shoulders, and fullness at the hips creating that va-va-voom shape. High heels lengthen the legs and improve posture, enhancing the figure. But because it’s a trouser suit, the hourglass effect feels fresh and contemporary.

Belted trousers and jeans look elegant when they’re fitted at the waist and fuller through the hip. Curvy icons have always known this—think Marilyn Monroe in The Misfits, wearing Levi’s with a belt and a simple white shirt. As a Gen Xer, it took me a long time to embrace belted jeans. I grew up with baggy hip-huggers and then tight low-riders; belting jeans felt like a throwback to the era of the Corby Trouser Press.

But now I’m a convert. The jeans that feel right for 2025—looser through the leg—look better on me, and I think on most women, when belted at the waist. It helps define your shape in a subtle, intentional way.To protect our website, we use CAPTCHA, and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

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Let’s be clear: belting your clothes isn’t about pulling the belt as tight as it can go. Think of a belt as punctuation in your outfit—not a torture device. I’m not a fan of belts worn with tight clothing because if you put a belt over a snug dress, you have to cinch it tightly to avoid it looking pointless. That pinched feeling just makes me uncomfortable and unhappy. Instead, try a belt with relaxed-fit jeans, pleated trousers, or over a jacket. You’ll get a defined waist without the discomfort.

A wide belt over a jacket is a great way to turn it into a chic top. But a word of warning: wearing it this way essentially turns the jacket into a top. Unless it has belt loops, taking it off in public isn’t really practical. So pick a jacket that won’t make you too warm, and wear something very light—or nothing—underneath. Dig through your wardrobe—this trick could give an old jacket a whole new life. And there’s nothing cooler or more modern than creating a fresh look from clothes you already own.

Model: Ellen at Body London. Hair and makeup: Delilah Blakeney using Colour Wow and Mac. Jacket, £89.99; trousers, £49.99; belt, £35.99; and shoes, £35.99, all from Mango. Earrings, £9.99, H&M.

Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Jess CartnerMorleys approach to embracing an hourglass silhouette in a modern way

FAQs Modern Hourglass Silhouette

Beginner Questions

1 What exactly is an hourglass silhouette
Its a body shape where the bust and hip measurements are roughly similar with a noticeably narrower waist

2 Why would I want to dress for an hourglass shape if it feels oldfashioned
The goal isnt to look retro but to highlight your natural proportions in a way that feels powerful and contemporary not costumed

3 Whats the most important item for creating this look
A wellfitting belt Its the easiest way to define your waist over almost any outfit from dresses to oversized blazers

4 Can I achieve this with comfortable casual clothes
Absolutely Think highwaisted wideleg jeans with a tuckedin tshirt or a slimfitting knitwear The key is the waist definition

5 Whats a common mistake to avoid
Wearing shapeless or boxy items from top to bottom This hides your waist and can make you look larger than you are

Advanced Questions

6 How do I balance volume without looking overwhelmed
Use the volume in one area rule If youre wearing a full Aline skirt pair it with a fitted top If youre wearing wideleg trousers wear a closerfitting top or jumper

7 What fabrics work best for a modern hourglass look
Opt for fabrics with some drape and movement like crepe soft jerseys and silk rather than stiff structured fabrics that can feel too done

8 How can I adapt tailoring like a blazer for this silhouette
Choose blazers that are slightly tapered at the waist or simply leave them unbuttoned and wear them over a top and highwaisted bottoms The open front will still show your waistline

9 Are there specific necklines that enhance this style
Vnecks scoop necks and sweetheart necklines help elongate the torso and balance the bust complementing the hourglass shape beautifully

10 Whats Jess CartnerMorleys key philosophy here
Its about