The resurgence of hourglass silhouettes—blazers with nipped-in waists, belts looped through jeans, tops tucked in—reveals just how deeply fashion is woven into culture. On one hand, I’m ready to move on from the oversized, masculine blazer trend that’s grown a bit stale. But at the same time, the term “hourglass” does trigger some feminist hesitation. Clothing is a way of expressing identity, and emphasizing waist-to-hip ratios feels vaguely reminiscent of The Handmaid’s Tale, if you know what I mean.
Still, I find myself drawn to the new hourglass styles—I’m just cautious about the underlying message. It’s a bit like experiencing this year’s unusually hot British summer: while the warmth and sunshine felt like a blessing, it was impossible to ignore the troubling reality of climate change. Both feelings coexist, and both are valid.
If you’re intrigued by the hourglass shape but wary of its traditional associations, a good approach is to create curves using less conventionally feminine pieces. You don’t need a tight dress to achieve the silhouette—trousers, shirts, or structured blazers can create a modern, sophisticated look.
Take this outfit, for example: a trouser suit with a wide belt that cinches the waist, padded shoulders for structure, and volume at the hips to enhance the figure. Heels help elongate the legs and improve posture, but because it’s a suit, the hourglass effect feels fresh and contemporary.
Belted trousers or jeans can look incredibly elegant when they’re fitted at the waist and fuller through the hip. Curvy icons like Marilyn Monroe understood this—she wore belted Levi’s and a simple shirt in The Misfits. As someone who grew up with baggy or hip-hugging jeans, belting my waist felt outdated at first. But now I’m convinced: the looser, straight-leg jeans that are trending look much better belted at the natural waist, helping to define your shape without looking dated.To protect our website, we use CAPTCHA, and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
After newsletter promotion:
Jess Cartner-Morley on fashion: Mini, maxi, or knee-length? With my hemline rules, you’ll always get it right. Read more.
Let’s be clear: belting your clothes isn’t about pulling the belt to the tightest hole. A belt is meant to punctuate your outfit, not torture you. I’m not a fan of belts worn with tight clothing because if you wear one over a fitted dress, you have to cinch it tightly to avoid looking redundant—and that uncomfortable digging feeling makes me self-conscious and miserable. Instead, try a belt with high-waisted jeans, pleated trousers, or over a jacket. You’ll get a defined waist without the discomfort.
A wide belt over a jacket is a great way to turn it into a chic top. But a word of caution: wearing it this way essentially turns the jacket into a top. Unless the jacket has belt loops, taking it off in public isn’t practical, so choose something that won’t make you overheat. Wear a very light layer or nothing underneath. Dig through your wardrobe—this trick could give an old jacket a whole new life. And there’s nothing cooler or more modern than creating a fresh look from clothes you already own.
Model: Ellen at Body London. Hair and makeup: Delilah Blakeney using Colour Wow and Mac. Jacket, £89.99; trousers, £49.99; belt, £35.99; and shoes, £35.99, all from Mango. Earrings, £9.99, H&M.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about achieving an hourglass silhouette in the modern style of Jess CartnerMorley
FAQs Achieving a Modern Hourglass Silhouette
Beginner Questions
1 What exactly is an hourglass silhouette
Its a body shape where the bust and hip measurements are roughly similar with a narrower defined waist creating an X or hourglass figure
2 Why would I want this shape if it seems oldfashioned
The goal isnt to look like a 1950s housewife The modern approach is about creating balanced confident proportions that emphasize your natural waist for a polished and powerful look not a costumed one
3 Whats the easiest way to start creating this shape
The simplest starting point is a wellfitting belt Wear it over dresses blazers or sweaters at your natural waistline to instantly create definition
4 I dont have a tiny waist Can I still achieve this look
Absolutely Its about creating the illusion of proportion not having a specific measurement The goal is to make your waist appear narrower relative to your bust and hips through strategic clothing choices
Common Problems Solutions
5 I feel like peplum tops are too costumey What are modern alternatives
Peplums can be dramatic Try a top with subtle gathering or ruching at the sides a tuckedin blouse with a slight blouson effect or a knit top that nips in at the waist
6 How do I avoid looking overly formal or done up
Balance structured pieces with relaxed ones For example pair a tailored belted blazer with straightleg jeans and trainers instead of a pencil skirt and heels
7 What if I prefer trousers over skirts and dresses
Highwaisted wideleg or bootcut trousers are perfect They cinch at the smallest part of your waist and flare out over the hips creating the desired balanced shape Tuck your top in neatly
Advanced Practical Tips
8 What fabrics work best for a modern hourglass look
Look for fabrics with some structure that skim the body rather than cling tightly mediumweight cottons crepe ponte knit and denim Avoid overly stiff or bulky fabrics that can add unnecessary volume
