I’ve been a champion of secondhand shopping for decades. For my first shoot for British Vogue in 2003, I dressed Kate Moss entirely in pieces I’d found in New York charity shops – including a banana-print top that cost $5 and a gold sequin jacket I found at the Salvation Army for $7. I think every shoot I’ve done has included secondhand pieces – vintage jeans, blazers, coats, belts, boots – and they’re always the items the people I’m dressing get excited about and want. Often, they just look and feel cooler.
But wearing secondhand isn’t just a style choice. There’s the pure thrill of the hunt – finding that unique, one-of-a-kind piece that tells a story – and every time you give a garment a second life, you keep it out of landfill and turn the simple act of getting dressed into a beautiful form of climate activism.
Want to do some secondhand shopping yourself? Here are my tips for hunting and styling secondhand – from the charity shop rail to online.
How to shop secondhand
View image in fullscreen
Bay Garnett has dressed many celebrities in secondhand clothing. Photograph: Amber Ahmad/Oxfam
Start with accessories
If you’re new to secondhand, an accessory is often the easiest way to introduce something distinctive into your wardrobe. I once bought a pre-loved belt in New York after saving up and haggling with the shop. It has brass punk studs and has aged beautifully – it looked like it belonged to one of the Ramones or Debbie Harry. I put this belt on Sophie Dahl when I styled her as Debbie Harry for British Vogue, as well as Chloë Sevigny and many others. I still wear it often – with a silk shirt, a vintage blouse, a roll-neck cashmere sweater, you name it. It gives any outfit a vibe.
Push outside your comfort zone
Sometimes I’ll buy high-street clothes in a charity shop – always basics like a long-sleeved Cos, New Look or Zara T-shirt or vest to go with my existing wardrobe – but overall, I find it’s best to look for pieces that feel original and outside the norm – whether that’s a colour, fabric or shape I’m drawn to. If something catches your eye immediately, it’s worth trying on, even if it’s not your usual style.
Check out the men’s rail
View image in fullscreen
Searching the men’s sections of charity shops and vintage stores can unearth gems. Photograph: Anadolu/Anadolu Agency/Getty Images
I’m not precious about sticking to womenswear. I once spotted a shirt I loved that cost £1,200 new – then found it on the men’s rail of a charity shop. It’s a habit worth adopting even if you’re not shopping for a man: some of the best finds are sitting in the men’s section. There’s nothing cooler than men’s button-down shirts. Oxford or poplin are gorgeous with a stiff structure. Find one in a classic sky blue or a faded banker stripe, roll the sleeves right up to your elbows, and tuck it into something unexpected like a silk slip skirt or some old jeans.
Hunt for the lovely soft jumper
I don’t get too hung up on fabrics, but I’ll always look out for a cashmere sweater or anything in beautiful cotton. Older cashmere can feel noticeably thicker, and natural fibres are, in some cases, biodegradable. They can also be circular – when you rescue a pure cotton shirt or knit, you’re keeping a high-quality material in rotation.
skip past newsletter promotion
Free newsletter | Weekly
Sign up to The Filter
Get the best shopping advice from the Filter team straight to your inbox. The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.
Enter your email
Sign up
after newsletter promotion
Don’t be afraid of a little imperfection
Wear and tear isn’t necessarily a reason to put something back. I once bought a brilliant secondhand 1970s sweatshirt despite its faded fabric because this ruggedness suited the piece. I’m all for a little patina and wear, particularly on something like a leather bag; aA new handbag, in my opinion, is not as good as one that has already seen some life. That said, stains are where I draw the line—if you can see one, don’t buy it. A piece doesn’t have to fit perfectly off the rack to be worth buying; I’ll buy something and then have it altered by a tailor, whether that means adjusting a hem or removing shoulder pads to make it feel more current.
Mix old and new. A great secondhand piece can make something you already own feel different. A preloved belt can change the silhouette and energy of a dress, and I love wearing vintage shirts with jeans. Before buying something new, try finding one preloved item and styling it with three pieces already in your wardrobe. It’s often the quickest way to make old favorites feel fresh again—and it stops you from buying new clothes you don’t need.
Know where to look online—and search creatively. Online secondhand shopping can be overwhelming simply because there’s so much out there. Though I always prefer a physical shop, I love Etsy for exploring particular styles, while eBay works well for specific searches. Vinted is great too for the sheer volume and variety of clothes on offer, and I’ve found a lot on Oxfam’s online shop over the years. Start with an idea of what you’re looking for, then refine the search. A good rule of thumb is to combine a decade, a style, and an item—for example, 70s bohemian boots. Also, try searching for colors, fabrics, or even specific collar shapes instead of broad terms like dress or jacket. Shopping for vintage online is like a good haircut—the more detail you can give the hairdresser, the better the result.
For more, read readers’ favorite secondhand finds and how to make your leather last a lifetime. Bay Garnett is supporting Oxfam’s Second Hand September, which encourages people to make more sustainable shopping choices by buying preloved fashion and donating unwanted clothes.
Frequently Asked Questions
FAQs Check the Mens Section and Accept Imperfections A Stylists Guide to Shopping Secondhand
1 What does check the mens section mean in secondhand shopping
It means browsing the mens racks even if you dont shop in mens sizes Mens clothing often has better quality simpler styles and bigger sizes that work well for oversized or tailored looks
2 Why should I shop secondhand instead of buying new
Its cheaper better for the environment and youll find unique pieces no one else has Many secondhand items are higher quality than todays fast fashion
3 What does accept imperfections mean
It means not expecting secondhand clothes to be perfect Small flaws like loose threads missing buttons or minor fading are normal and often easy to fix or ignore
4 Im new to thrifting Where do I start
Start with basics plain tees buttondown shirts denim and jackets Check the mens section first look for solid brands and dont worry about small flaws
5 How do I know if a flaw is worth accepting
Ask yourself Can I fix it cheaply Will it show when worn If its a small seam rip or a missing button yes If its a big stain or major tear skip it
6 What are the benefits of shopping the mens section
Better fabrics roomier cuts classic styles and less competition Sizes run larger so its great for oversized fits or if you need more length
7 What common problems should I expect with secondhand clothes
Shrinkage fading pilling missing buttons small holes and odd fits Most are fixable with basic sewing skills or a tailor
8 How do I spot quality in secondhand clothing
Check the seams fabric feel and labels Look for natural fibers like cotton wool and linen and brands known for durability
9 Can I really wear mens clothes if Im not a man
Absolutely Fashion has no rules A mens blazer sweater or buttondown can look great with a belt a tailors tweak or just styled your way
10 What if the item doesnt fit perfectly
Thats normal A
