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@font-face { font-family: 'Guardian Headline Full'; src: url(https://assets.guim.co.uk/static/frontend/fonts/guardian-headline/noalts-not-hinted/GHGuardianHeadline-BlackItalic.woff2) format('woff2'), url(https://assets.guim.co.uk/static/frontend/foIs e seo meadhan-latha air latha seachdaine, agus tha a h-uile bòrd aig cafaidh-bistro Au Bon Accueil ann am baile beag Saint-Martin-sur-Ouanne ann an ceann a tuath Burgundy air a ghabhail mu thràth. Chan eil an clàr-bìdh trì-chùrsa aig meadhan-latha an-diugh—a tha a' gabhail a-steach roghainn eadar steak tiugh le chips no lasagne làidir—a' cosg ach €18, ach chan ann dìreach airson a' bhidh a tha muinntir a' bhaile ann. Às dèidh a bhith dùinte airson ochd mìosan, tha am bistro, air an robh Café de la Gare roimhe, air fosgladh a-rithist o chionn ghoirid—agus tha muinntir an àite ag iarraidh gum fuirich e mar sin.
"Tha e cho cudromach cafaidh-bistro a bhith ann am baile mar seo. Cha b' urrainn dhuinn a leigeil le fuireach dùinte," thuirt Nadia Letellier, am manaidsear ùr. "Agus tha sinn a' dèanamh gu math, mar a chì thu. Tha e coltach gu bheil daoine gu math toilichte gu bheil e fosgailte a-rithist."
Tha Hervé Chapuis, tuathanach agus àrd-bhàillidh a' bhaile, na phàirt den sgioba comhairle ionadail a shàbhail an gnìomhachas poblach mu dheireadh ann an Saint-Martin bho dhùin am boulangerie thairis air an rathad ochd bliadhna air ais. "Bidh daoine a' tighinn an seo gach madainn airson cofaidh agus còmhradh," thuirt e. "Is e ar n-amas an seòrsa gnìomhachais seo a chumail fosgailte gus taic a thoirt don fhighe sòisealta. Tha e na phàirt de bheatha a' bhaile agus bha daoine ga ionndrainn. A-nis, tha beatha a' bhaile air tilleadh chun ruitheam cheart."
Tha cafaidhean-bistro cliùiteach na Frainge ann an trioblaid. Ann an 1900 bha timcheall air 500,000 leithid de dh'ionadan ann; ron na 1960an bha còrr air leth dhiubh dùinte. An-diugh, chan eil ach mu 30,000-40,000 air fhàgail, agus thathar ag aithris gu bheil eadhon iad sin a' dùnadh aig ìre de dhà san latha.
Tha Alain Fontaine, a tha a' ruith bistro Le Mesturet faisg air iomlaid stoc Paris agus a tha na cheann-suidhe air Comann Bistros is Cafaidhean na Frainge, ag ràdh gu bheil na dùnaidhean a' fàgail choimhearsnachdan dùthchail fàsail agus muinntir a' bhaile, gu sònraichte seann daoine, air an sgaradh. "Gach latha, tha an ealain-beatha a tha sinn a' mealtainn nar bistros a' dol à bith mean air mhean bho ar coimhearsnachdan," thuirt Fontaine. "Tha bailtean gan fàgail mar fhàsaichean gun bhùthan, gun ghnìomhachasan, gun dad. Le bhith a' call ar bistros, cafaidhean agus taighean-bìdh ionadail, tha sinn a' call pàirt de chothromachadh beatha na Frainge."
Tha na h-adhbharan airson dùnadh na rud a dh'ainmich an sgrìobhadair agus stàitiche 19mh linn Léon Gambetta "salons de la démocratie" no "pàrlamaidean nan daoine" nan adhbharan eaconamach agus sòisealach. Tha an àireamh de dhaoine a tha a' fuireach ann an sgìrean dùthchail air a dhol sìos thar leth-cheud bliadhna, tha telebhisean agus innealan a' brosnachadh barrachd dhaoine gus am feasgair a chur seachad aig an taigh, agus tha an cuibheasachd de Fhrangach a-nis ag òl mu 80 liotair de dheoch-làidir sa bhliadhna, an coimeas ri 200 liotair anns na 1960an. Tha e cuideachd na dhuilgheadas daoine a lorg a tha deònach bàraichean, cafaidhean no bistros a ruith, arsa Fontaine, a tha ag iomairt airson gun cuir an riaghaltas na h-ionadan sin a-steach do UNESCO airson liostadh dualchais do-bheantainn. Tha e ag argamaid gum brosnaicheadh an t-aithneachadh seo barrachd dhaoine gus beachdachadh air an gabhail os làimh. "Gun chafaidh no bistro, tha coimhearsnachdan gu h-èifeachdach air an call airson beatha shòisealta sam bith. Chan urrainn dhuinn gabhail ris a' ghluasad seo," thuirt e. "Ann am bistros agus cafaidhean, chan e a-mhàin gu bheil daoine ag ithe agus ag òl, bidh iad a' faighinn suas ri chèile, a' coinneachadh ri daoine ùra, a' deasbad, a' gàireachdainn, a' leughadh, a' sgrìobhadh agus uaireannan a' tuiteam ann an gaol. Is e seo dòigh-beatha agus faireachdainn de shaorsa a tha gun samhail don Fhraing, rudeigin a bhios luchd-turais bho air feadh an t-saoghail a' tighinn a shireadh ann am Paris, ann am prìomh bhailtean eile, agus nar bailtean."
Luchd-ceannach ann an taigh-bìdh Au Bon Accueil ann an Saint-Martin-sur-Ouanne. Dealbh: Ed Alcock/The Guardian
Tha teaghlach Solène Joucla air a bhith a' ruith an Le Grand Café eachdraidheil ann an Camplong, anns an Hérault faisg air Montpellier, bho 1898. Nuair a leig a h-athair, Pierre, dheth, bha aice ri taghadh eadar a leigeil dùnadh no a leigeil seachad a cuid obrach mar thidsear Beurla àrd-sgoile. An àite sin, chuir i fhèin agus a piuthar, Katell, comann air dòigh gus a ruith. "Dhùin sinn airson trì bliadhna às dèidh Covid, a bha na àm duilich, agus dh'fhosgail sinn san t-Sultain an-uiridh. Bha sinn airson cuideigin a lorg gus a ghabhail os làimh agus a ruith, ach is e baile beag de 220 duine a th' ann agus bha e toinnte. A-nis tha sinn ga ruith le saor-thoilich," thuirt Joucla. "Is e ar n-amas daoine a bhrosnachadh gus a dhol a-mach gus nach bi iad air an sgaradh, agus gus am bi fios againn ciamar a tha iad. Bidh daoine a' tighinn an seo airson còmhradh, airson gàire, airson èisteachd ri ceòl … is sinne meadhan cultarail a' bhaile. Dh'fhàs mo phiuthar agus mise suas anns a' bhàr seo agus tha cuimhneachain gu leòr againn an seo. Tha sinn a' strì gus a àite a chumail aig cridhe a' bhaile, ach is e dùbhlan làitheil a th' ann dìreach fuireach fosgailte. Agus chan ann dìreach dhuinne; is e blàr a th' ann a tha a' tachairt air feadh na Frainge."
Luchd-ceannach aig bàr taigh-bìdh Au Bon Accueil. Dealbh: Ed Alcock/The Guardian
Mhol aithisg a chaidh a chur a-steach do sheanadh na Frainge ann an 2023 gum bu chòir don riaghaltas riaghailtean air cafaidhean-bistro, taighean-òsta agus taighean-bìdh beaga dùthchail a lùghdachadh. Chomharraich i a' bhuaidh àicheil a bh' aig dùnadh farsaing àiteachan mar seo air coimhearsnachdan dùthchail, a' co-dhùnadh gun robh am bith a' cur ri "beothalachd eaconamach agus co-leanailteachd shòisealta". Tha Caidreachas Nàiseanta nam Bistro Dùthchail ag ràdh gu bheil "bistros dùthchail gun samhail mar àiteachan airson sòisealachadh, togail cheanglaichean coimhearsnachd, sgrùdadh eòlasan ùra agus beatha chultarail ionadail a bhrosnachadh. Gu tric, is iad na bistros sin na h-aon sholaraichean seirbheis ionadail a tha fhathast ag obair ann am bailtean." Tha e a' cur ris: "Tha a bhith a' toirt taic do bhistro a' bhaile a' ciallachadh a chuideachadh gus a chumail beò, gus am bi cridhe ar dùthcha a' cumail a' bualadh."
Rinn aithisg o chionn ghoirid le Oxford Economics sgrùdadh air tabhartas eaconamach agus sòisealta bhàraichean is thaighean-seinnse do choimhearsnachdan ann an còig margaidhean, a' gabhail a-steach an RA agus na SA. Cho-dhùin i gu robh "prìomh àite … aca ann a bhith a' toirt dhaoine còmhla agus a' toirt taic do cheangal sòisealta". Anns an Fhraing, chaidh comann 1,000 Cafés a stèidheachadh ann an 2020 gus cuir an aghaidh an "bhriseadh sòisealta" a chaidh a shoilleireachadh le gluasad gearain nan gilets jaunes le bhith a' cuideachadh chomannan le nas lugha na 3,500 duine gus na cafaidhean aca a shàbhaladh no feadhainn ùra fhosgladh. Lorg e nach robh malairt ionadail aig còrr air 60% de dhaoine ann am bailtean dùthchail, agus dh'fhàg seo mòran a' faireachdainn air an trèigsinn agus air an dearmad. Thuirt Camille Sebaux, stiùiriche 1,000 Cafés, ri rèidio France Info gu robh an comann air obrachadh ann an còrr air 300 coimhearsnachd, gu tric a' cuideachadh cafaidhean gus iad fhèin iomadachadh le bhith a' stòradh biadh riatanach, no a bhith nan àiteachan leigeil sìos airson lìbhrigidhean ceannach air-loidhne. "Tha cafaidhean air a bhith a' dùnadh ann am bailtean airson na 50 bliadhna a chaidh seachad, agus chan eil slat-draoidheachd no freagairt mhìorbhaileach sam bith againn," thuirt Sebaux. "A bharrachd air sin, chan e obair fhurasta a th' ann a bhith a' ruith cafaidh baile. Is e ar n-amas cuideachadh a thoirt do choimhearsnachdan beaga fuasglaidhean a lorg."
Daoine a' dìnnearachadh ann an ceàrnag ann am baile Collobrières, ann an sgìre Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
Tha Aurélien Pécot, àrd-bhàillidh nan 14 bailtean agus bhailtean beaga—a' gabhail a-steach Saint-Martin-sur-Ouanne—a tha a' dèanamh suas comann Charny-Orée-de-Puisaye ann an roinn Yonne, air bistro a ruith airson seachd bliadhna mus deach a thaghadh am bliadhna. Tha e den bheachd gu bheil àiteachan mar seo riatanach do choimhearsnachdan dùthchail.
"Mhothaich mi gum biodh na h-aon daoine a' tighinn a-steach gach madainn aig an aon àm, a' suidhe aig an aon bhòrd, agus ag òrdachadh an aon chofaidh no glainne fìon geal. Bha an cafaidh-bistro nan acair. Ma thèid e à bith, chan eil dad air fhàgail dhaibh," tha e ag ràdh.
Tha seilbh aig an ùghdarras ionadail aige air còig togalaichean san sgìre—bistro Saint-Martin, taigh-bìdh, agus trì taighean-fuine—agus chosg e €25,000 air càradh riatanach aig Au Bon Accueil mus do dh'fhosgail e a-rithist. Thug oifigearan ionadail cuideachd comhairle do Letellier mu bhith a' stèidheachadh a' ghnìomhachais.
Tha Pécot ag ràdh gu bheil mòran a' cuimhneachadh air àm nuair a bha bàr, cafaidh, bistro agus taigh-fuine aig cha mhòr a h-uile baile, ach tha e ag ràdh nach eil sin fìor no ion-dhèanta gu h-eaconamach ann am mòran chùisean tuilleadh.
"Is e airgead luchd-pàighidh chìsean a tha sinn a' cosg gus na h-àiteachan seo a shàbhaladh, agus mar sin feumaidh daoine faicinn gu bheilear ga chosg gu math. Chan urrainn bistro a bhith aig a h-uile baile," tha e ag ràdh.
Thairis air aperitif aig Au Bon Accueil, thuirt Nicole Deviterne, àrd-bhàillidh baile faisg air làimh gun chafaidh-bistro: "Is e eileamaid de bheatha a' bhaile a th' ann a
