After a long drive, I take a stroll through a dense grove of beech trees to breathe in some fresh air. It reminds me of the scene in Kenneth Grahame’s wistful story The Wind in the Willows, where Mole gets lost in the Wild Wood: “There seemed to be no end to this wood, and no beginning, and no difference in it, and, worst of all, no way out.”
I’ve come to South Oxfordshire to explore what was once Grahame’s old stomping ground. While I don’t share his character’s fear of the woods, I do share Grahame’s own sense of wonder for this part of the country—so close to suburbia, yet dotted with pockets of wildness. It’s one of those spring days when the light feels soft and elastic, and daffodils brighten the edges of muddy lanes. The moon is rising now, and smoke drifts from the chimney of a cottage just beyond the trees. Nocturnal creatures may be stirring, but I feel the pull of a cozy burrow. I leave the woods and head back to my accommodation, Bonni B&B, in Hill Bottom.
Run by Koo and Denny Akers, the B&B is an offshoot of Bonni Outbuildings, the cabin business the couple started during the pandemic. Their distinctive corrugated cabins come in shades of mint, moss, and terracotta and have been used as everything from artist studios to yoga shalas and even golf simulator rooms. The option to order a fully fitted and decorated Bonni cabin has helped define the brand. Although the B&B is located above a smart timber garage at the couple’s home, it features the same fittings, furnishings, and paint colors as their cabins.
Created as a kind of try-before-you-buy experience for potential buyers, the B&B also makes a stylish base for a weekend away. Technically a one-bed apartment, it has an open-plan kitchen and living room, a shower room with underfloor heating, and a king-size bed beneath a round window. Lined with wood paneling and painted in shades of clotted cream, terracotta, and powder blue, the space feels warm and inviting. Details like jugs of white tulips and salvaged vintage pieces—mirrors and stripped-pine drawers—add to the coziness. But the standout feature is the shower, with its bottle-green corrugated paneling. Guests can pre-order a DIY breakfast, and I enjoy avocado on toast with velvety smoked salmon, a poached egg, and chilli flakes while looking out at a veil of morning mist.
By the time I finish eating, the mist is lifting, and I pull on my boots to explore. In summer, visitors often follow in the footsteps of Grahame and Jerome K. Jerome, messing about on or by the river—paddleboards and skippered boats are available to hire—or venturing out to Oxford, Windsor, or London, all less than an hour away by train from Goring or Pangbourne.
Koo and Denny both grew up locally and are generous with insider tips. Borrowing one of their bikes, I start with a gentle 10-minute ride downhill to Whitchurch-on-Thames. My first stop is the Modern Artists Gallery, where I watch light glinting off Alice Cescatti’s gilded paintings as owner Peggy Brodie tells me about the nearby farmhouse where the seeds of the Womad music festival were sown. Detouring east, I pass fields nibbled by alpacas and watch red kites circle overhead on my way to Lin’s Veg Shed, where wholesome-looking vegetables and salads are sold just steps from where they’re grown.
The landscape feels timeless as I pedal past pretty cottages, ancient churches, a mossy-roofed mill, and pubs with well-worn bars. In Whitchurch, I ride past the Greyhound pub and over the river into Pangbourne. Grahame’s former home is here, still a private residence. Although he wasn’t living here when he wrote The Wind in the Willows, Pangbourne still echoes the picnic-loving spirit of Ratty, with its cheese shop, bakery, and Italian deli.
Cycling back to Hill Bottom to return the bike, I finish my day on foot, walking a few miles to Goring-on-Thames and Streatley along a riverside path through the Goring Gap—a topographical half-pipe where the Thames cuts through chalk hills. My route joins the Ridgeway, Britain’s oldest road, as I cross the…The landscape feels timeless as I pass pretty brick and flint cottages, ancient churches, a mossy-roofed mill, and pubs with well-worn bars. Hunger begins to set in as I walk by the waterside tables of The Swan at Streatley, the steamed-up windows of Pierreponts cafe, and the well-stocked shelves of the Goring Grocer. But waiting for me back at Bonni B&B is a pre-ordered Riverford recipe-box meal—a bowl of romesco chickpeas. With its smoky paprika, lemon, and crumbly medita cheese calling to me, and the promise of another restful night behind the round window, I leave the river and take the path back to Hill Bottom.
Soon the Gatehampton Viaduct stretches behind me, and I reach the tunnel-like holloway that leads to Bonni B&B. In The Wind in the Willows, Ratty tells Mole that beyond the Wild Wood lies the Wide World—a place he’d never been and never intended to go. Entering the sunken path at dusk, I realize I feel just as content in this wooded corner of the Chilterns. I may not want to venture back out into the wider world tomorrow morning, either.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about a chic Chilterns BB as the ideal starting point for a Wind in the Willows getaway
Planning Your Getaway
What makes a Chilterns BB the perfect starting point for a Wind in the Willows experience
The Chiltern Hills are the reallife inspiration for Kenneth Grahames classic Staying in a chic BB here puts you right in the heart of the rolling hills ancient woods and peaceful riverbanks that inspired the adventures of Mole Ratty Badger and Toad
What should I look for in a chic BB for this kind of trip
Look for a place that blends modern comfort with rustic charmthink luxury linens a great breakfast but with views of the countryside Proximity to the River Thames beech woods or quiet country lanes is a major plus
Is this trip good for families or is it more for couples
It can be perfect for both Many BBs offer family rooms The theme appeals to adults seeking nostalgia and relaxation and kids who love the story making it a wonderful multigenerational trip
Location Activities
Where exactly in the Chilterns should I stay
Focus on areas near the Thames Path in OxfordshireBuckinghamshire Key villages include Cookham Marlow HenleyonThames and Pangbourne These are all close to the river and beautiful walking country
What are the mustdo activities to feel like Im in the book
1 Poohsticking Find a quiet bridge over a stream
2 A river picnic Pack a basket of provisions by the bank
3 Explore a wild wood Try the Warburg Nature Reserve or the woods around Hambleden
4 Visit a grand estate Like Cliveden or Basildon Park for a taste of Toad Hall grandeur
5 Simply mess about in a boat Hire a rowboat or take a gentle cruise in Henley or Marlow
Are there any specific Wind in the Willows attractions
Yes The
