Ka san kana cikin birni da ke ɗaukar salon tufafi da muhimmanci lokacin da ko da Maryamu Budurwa ta yi ado daga kai zuwa ƙafa da tufafin masu zanen kaya. Tafiya kaɗan daga tsohon garin Antwerp, tare da gidajen ƙungiyoyin sana'a na zamani na daɗaɗɗa da titunan dutse, za ka sami cocin baroque na St. Andrews. Kamar yawancin cocin Katolika na birnin, yana da tagogin gilashi masu kyau, wani mimbari na katako da aka sassaƙa da kyau, da ƙarin zane-zane na ƙwararrun Flemish fiye da yadda za ka iya ƙidaya. Amma mun zo nan don mu yaba wani nau'in fasaha daban.
A cikin wani ɗakin sujada mai natsuwa, wani mutum-mutumi na katako na Madonna na ƙarni na 16 yana sanye ba mayafinsa na shuɗi na yau da kullun ba, amma riga da aka yi da yadi mai laushi, mai haske, wanda aka yi masa ado da abin wuya na gashin fuka-fukan tattabara. An yi shi ne ta musamman daga shahararren mai zanen kaya na Belgium Ann Demeulemeester. Zaɓi ne mai ƙarfin hali, amma wanda ya dace daidai a cikin birni inda son salon tufafi ya zama kamar an haɗa shi cikin rayuwar yau da kullun.
Ba haka yake a dā ba. A ƙarni na 19, wannan unguwa matalauci an san ta da "Ikklesiya ta wahala" – sunan da ya daɗe har zuwa shekarun 1980. A lokacin ne wani matashi mai zanen kaya mai suna Dries van Noten da ƙarfin hali ya yanke shawarar buɗe shago a Nationalestraat, a gefen titi daga shagon tela na kakansa. Kusan shekaru arba'in bayan haka, ginin art nouveau da aka gyara da kyau, tare da tagoginsa masu lanƙwasa, benen marmara, da chandeliers, yana tsakiyar Yankin Salon Tufafi mai rai na Antwerp. (An sake masa suna, watakila saboda "Yankin Wahala" ya kasance mai wuyar siyarwa ga hukumar yawon buɗe ido.)
"Dole ne ka fahimci cewa babu komai a nan kafin buɗe wannan shago. Ya canza komai," in ji Yentl, jagora wanda ke ɗauke da ni da 'yata tafiya ta wasu mahimman wuraren salon tufafi da titunan sayayya na yankin.
Matasan masu zanen kaya na Belgium sun ci nasara a kan jaridun salon tufafi na duniya da basirarsu, sabon abu, da kuma amincewa. Van Noten da Demeulemeester duk suna cikin "Antwerp Six" – rukuni na ƙwararrun matasa masu digiri daga Kwalejin Fine Arts ta Royal Academy na birnin waɗanda suka fashe a fagen salon tufafi na duniya a ƙarshen shekarun 1980. Tare da takwarorinsu, Walter van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene, da Marina Yee, an yaba su da sake ba da sabon rai ga duniyar salon tufafi wadda ta daɗe tana mamaye ta Paris, Milan, da London.
Ana ba da labarinsu a wani babban nuni na zamani a MoMu, gidan kayan tarihi na salon tufafi na duniya na Antwerp, 'yan ƙofofi kaɗan daga babban shagon Van Noten. Nunin tarihin, wanda ke gudana har zuwa Janairu 2027, yana nuna bikin cika shekaru 40 na tafiyar farko ta rukunin zuwa London a 1986. A lokacin, sun shiga cikin wata motar haya da aka yi hayar suka ɗauki jirgin ruwa daga Ostend don nuna tarinsu na farko a Nunin Masu Zanen Kaya na Biritaniya a Olympia. Matasan masu zanen kaya na Belgium sun ci nasara a kan jaridun salon tufafi na duniya da masu siye da basirarsu, sabon abu, da ƙarfin hali – suna ƙirƙirar tarinsu a kan ƙaramin kasafin kuɗi, sau da yawa daga kayan da aka sake amfani da su, suna ba da fifiko ga bayyana kai fiye da kasuwanci, suna yin ɗaukar hoto a wuraren ajiye motoci da aka watsar, da yin takardu da hotunansu.
Ko da yake jaridun ƙasashen waje suna son kiran su Antwerp Six (mafi sauƙi fiye da rubuta duk waɗannan dogayen sunayen Flemish), ba su taɓa zama rukuni na yau da kullun ba. Yana da kyau a ga cewa nunin yana ba kowane mai zanen kaya nasa sarari. Daga ƙirar ƙarfin hali masu launi na Van Beirendonck zuwa duhun wasan kwaikwayo na palette na fari da baƙi na Demeulemeester, nunin suna da tunani da hasashe kamar tufafin da suke nunawa. Sun haɗa da hasashen fim, tambayoyin da aka yi rikodin, wani bel mai motsi na mutum-mutumi, da kuma waƙar da ke tada hankali.Tun 1884.
Hoto: Joanne O’Connor
Barin nunin da shiga cikin hasken rana na bazara, a bayyane yake cewa tasirin wannan rukuni na majagaba ya wuce salon tufafi kuma har yanzu yana rayuwa a cikin birnin. A Nationalestraat, masu zanen kaya na zamani suna zaune tare da shagunan kilo, inda ake sayar da tufafin da aka yi amfani da su da nauyi. A Labels Inc, za ka iya bincika guntun da aka fi so daga shahararrun masu zanen kaya na Belgium kamar Raf Simons da Martin Margiela, ko duba tarin da aka nuna daga sabbin masu digiri na salon tufafi na birnin. Kusa da nan, Kammenstraat da Steenhouwersvest sun cika da shagunan tufafi na zamani, alamun tufafin titi, da alamun masu zaman kansu kamar Arte Antwerp, wanda ya ƙware a cikin tufafin maza na birni masu kyau waɗanda aka yi wahayi daga zane, fasaha, da gine-gine. Ko da ba za ka iya bambanta jakar Bikkembergs daga waffle na Belgium ba, ba zai yiwu ba ka ji an yi wahayi.
"Antwerp Six sun koya wa mutane yadda ake zama 'yan kasuwa da bin muryar cikinsu," in ji mai zanen kaya Tim van Steenbergen, wanda ya horar da Dries van Noten kuma daga baya ya kafa kamfanin zamantakewa da alamar salon tufafi mai ɗorewa ReAntwerp. "Sun nuna cewa idan kana son yin abubuwa daban, za ka iya."
An ƙaddamar da shi don mayar da martani ga yawan sharar yadi da masana'antar salon tufafi ke samarwa, ReAntwerp yana sayar da nau'ikan tufafi na yau da kullun da aka yi da kyau, masu iyaka – daga riguna zuwa rigunan ruwa – ta amfani da ragowar yadi daga masu zanen kaya kamar Van Noten da Christian Wijnants. Kamfanin kuma yana ba da horo, aiki, da tallafi ga 'yan gudun hijira, waɗanda ke yin tufafin a cikin bitar da ke wurin. "Ina son tufafin su kasance da ma'ana da daraja ga mutanen da suke yin su kamar yadda suke ga mutanen da suke saya," in ji Van Steenbergen. "Mun yi aiki da 'yan gudun hijira daga Afghanistan, Syria, Pakistan, Palestine, Brazil, da Costa Rica. Harshenmu na gama gari shine yadi."
Kada ka rasa ra'ayoyin faɗin kan kogin da tashoshin jiragen ruwa masu yaɗuwa daga rufin gidan kayan tarihi na MAS.
Yana da taken da ya dace da birni wanda arzikinsa ya ginu, a wani ɓangare, a kan cinikin yadi. A ƙarni na 16, Antwerp ita ce tashar jirgin ruwa mafi girma a Turai, tare da jigilar ulun Ingila, siliki na Italiya, lu'u-lu'u na Indiya, kayan yaji na Portugal, da sukari na Yammacin Indiya suna tafiya sama da ƙasa Kogin Scheldt. Arzikin daga wannan ciniki an zuba shi a cikin gidajen ƙungiyoyin sana'a masu rikitarwa da gine-ginen jama'a da ke kewaye da Grote Markt, babban dandalin birnin. Ana ba da labarin tashar jirgin ruwa ta Antwerp a gidan kayan tarihi na MAS, wanda ke cikin wani gini mai hawa 10 na zamani a yankin Eilandje na tashar jirgin ruwa. Kada ka rasa ra'ayoyin faɗin daga rufin, ko damar cin abinci a kan titi daga ko'ina cikin duniya a Kasuwar Abinci ta Wolf Sharing, wadda ke cikin wani tsohon ɗakin ajiya tare da filin bene na gefen ruwa.
Duba hoto cikin cikakken allo: Maɓuɓɓugar Brabo da gidajen ƙungiyoyin sana'a masu kyau na Grote Markt, babban dandalin Antwerp. Hoto: Bruno Silva/Alamy
A lokacin zamaninsa na zinariya, Antwerp ba kawai cibiyar kasuwanci ba ce amma har ma da ƙarfin fasaha da tunani, gida ga masu zane kamar Anthony van Dyck, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, Clara Peeters, da Peter Paul Rubens. Za ka iya ganin tarin ayyukansu a Gidan Kayan Tarihi na Fine Arts na Royal, amma babu abin da ya kai ganin manyan bagadai huɗu na Rubens da kanka a Babban Cocin Our Lady.
Gidan mai zanen da ɗakin aikin sa yanzu an rufe su don babban gyara, amma bayan dogon rana na yawon buɗe ido da sayayya, ya zama sauƙi don zama shiru a tsakanin nunin tulips da furannin bazara a cikin lambunan Italiyanci na yau da kullun, waɗanda har yanzu suna buɗe ga jama'a. Mun kuma ci karo da wasu hotunan iyali na ban mamaki na Rubens a Gidan Kayan Tarihi na Plantin-Moretus, tsohon gida da wurin aiki na tsararraki tara na iyali waɗanda suka canza bugu gaba ɗaya. An samar da atlas na farko, littattafan kimiyya marasa adadi, da Littafi Mai Tsarki masu kyau da aka zana a kan matattarar bugu na katako a nan.Wasu daga cikin waɗannan sun fara daga shekarun 1600. Tare da bangonsa masu duhu, tagogin gubar, da allunan bene masu ƙara, wuri ne mai ban sha'awa da ban mamaki inda lokaci ya tsaya cak.
Antwerp mai ban mamaki: Hanyoyi 10 don samun mafi kyawun abin da Belgium ke da shi na al'adu
Kara karantawa
Muna da isasshen lokaci don ɗaya daga cikin giyar bolleke na ƙarshe da croquette na shrimp a dandalin rana kusa da otal ɗinmu, otal mai ban sha'awa Hotel ’t Sandt, kafin mu buƙaci fita mu ɗauki tram zuwa tashar tsakiya ta Antwerp. Daga nan, tafiyar jirgin ƙasa ce ta mintuna 45 zuwa Brussels, inda za mu hau Eurostar ɗinmu zuwa gida. Otal ɗin yana cikin wani gini mai kyau na ƙarni na 17 da aka gyara tare da benen katako masu gogewa, matakala mai karkace, da rufin katako. A tsawon shekaru, ya yi aiki da dalilai daban-daban: ɗakin ajiyar ayaba, gidan kwastam, masana'antar sabulu, da ɗakin aikin mai sassaƙa. A yau, ya zama tushe mai kyau don bincika birnin – abokantaka, mai salo, kuma yana sanye da tarihinsa da kyau, kamar Antwerp kanta.
Nunin Antwerp Six yana gudana a MoMu har zuwa 17 Janairu 2027. Shigarwa €13 ga kowane babba kuma kyauta ga waɗanda ba su kai 18 ba. Tafiyar ta samar da ita ta Ziyarci Antwerp. Dakuna biyu a Hotel ’t Sandt sun fara daga €217 a kowane dare.
Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa game da Jagoran masoyan salon tufafi zuwa Antwerp Babban birnin salon na Turai
Tambayoyi na Matakin Farko
1 Me yasa ake ɗaukar Antwerp a matsayin babban birnin salon tufafi?
Antwerp ta shahara saboda Antwerp Six, rukuni na masu zanen kaya na gaba-gaba waɗanda suka kammala karatu daga Royal Academy of Fine Arts a shekarun 1980. Sun sanya birnin a taswira don salon tufafi mai ban mamaki da tunani, yana mai da shi cibiyar salon na dabam.
2 Me ya bambanta salon tufafi na Antwerp daga Paris ko Milan?
Yana da ƙarancin game da alatu da kyau kuma fiye da game da rushewa, asymmetry, da zane na hankali. Ka yi tunanin manyan siffofi, gefuna marasa dinki, da yanayin fasaha mai sawa maimakon kyau na gargajiya.
3 Ba ni mai zanen kaya ba ne. Zan ji daɗin sayayya a Antwerp?
Tabbas. Ba ka buƙatar zama gwani ba. Birnin yana da haɗin manyan shagunan ra'ayi da kasuwannin tufafi masu araha, don haka kowa zai iya samun guntun bayyanawa na musamman.
4 Menene Antwerp Six?
Su ne masu zanen kaya shida waɗanda suka canza salon tufafi a shekarun 1980 da ƙirarsu masu tsattsauran ra'ayi da rashin bin al'ada.
5 Ina mafi kyawun yanki don siyan salon tufafi a Antwerp?
Yankin Modekwartier a kusa da Nationalestraat da Kammenstraat. Yana cike da shagunan masu zaman kansu, manyan shagunan Antwerp Six, da shagunan tufafi na zamani.
Tambayoyi na Matsakaici
6 Zan iya ziyartar Gidan Kayan Tarihi na Salon Tufafi na Antwerp a kan kasafin kuɗi?
E, MoMu yana da araha kuma yana ba da zurfin fahimta game da tarihin salon tufafi na Belgium. Duba jadawalin su don nunin wucin gadi kan takamaiman masu zanen kaya.
7 Menene hanya mafi kyau don samun tufafi na zamani a Antwerp?
Je zuwa Kloosterstraat ko Rosier 41 don guntun da aka zaɓa na hannu na biyu. Don ciniki, gwada Kasuwar Tufafi ta Zamani a Vrijdagmarkt a ranakun Juma'a.
8 Yaya zan yi ado don dacewa da jama'ar salon tufafi na gida?
Ka yi tunanin kyau marar ƙoƙari.
