Ilulissat in northern Greenland is known as the “iceberg capital of the world,” but its mayor says the town is now divided. Friends and neighbors have stopped speaking to each other over a dispute about cruise ships that bring tourists to see its stunning frozen landscapes.
The town’s Unesco-listed icefjord attracts thousands of visitors each summer, bringing potential business opportunities. However, local tour operators say they’re being pushed out by larger companies from other parts of Greenland and Denmark, which undercut local prices or exclude them entirely—leaving local boats idle in the harbor.
Mayor Lars Erik Gabrielsen has urged residents to protest against cruise ship arrivals with demonstrations and signs, angering a government minister who accused him of scaring away tourists. The community is split between those working with Greenland Cruises (based in Nuuk) and Danish company Vela Nordic, and those who refuse.
“We don’t even recognize ourselves anymore,” Gabrielsen said. “We’re not greeting each other because of this division.” He argues that if cruise ships stopped working with these two companies—along with Diskoline, owned by Danish travel firm Topas Explorer—they could better support local businesses and taxpayers.
Greenland’s business minister, Naaja Nathanielsen, criticized Gabrielsen’s protests, calling them a harmful mix of authority and activism. She warned that his actions were sending a message that cruise operators “risk being met with demonstrations arranged by the authorities.” Several cruise lines have already canceled stops in Ilulissat, and others are considering bypassing the town entirely.
The conflict comes at a crucial time for Greenland, where fishing has long dominated the economy but tourism is growing as Arctic ice melts. Tourism is also seen as key to reducing reliance on Denmark, which still controls Greenland’s foreign and security policy.
Meanwhile, U.S. interest in Greenland is rising, fueled by Donald Trump’s past interest in acquiring the territory for its minerals and tourism potential. This summer saw the launch of direct flights from New York to Nuuk, and a new airport in Ilulissat is set to open next year.
Gabrielsen denies being anti-tourism, saying he simply wants locals to benefit from the industry’s growth. “We want to be involved in tourism so our children and grandchildren can have a future in this sector,” he said.For months, each season brings potentially lucrative business to the town. (Photograph: Luis Leamus/Alamy)
Last year, a tourism law was passed to promote sustainable development and locally rooted tourism, but Gabrielsen doubts it will make a difference. Instead, he suggests Greenland should establish a tourism agency run by municipalities and industry representatives to distribute tasks and visitors more fairly. He also believes tax laws need reform to address the issue.
The Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO), which held multiple meetings in Ilulissat last year with local stakeholders, acknowledged the concerns. A spokesperson said they recognize the frustration seems aimed primarily at Greenland-registered companies and reflects differing views on tourism management.
Anne Nivíka Grødem, CEO of Visit Greenland, expressed concern over recent unrest in Ilulissat, where protests against certain tourism operators have created uncertainty. She warned this not only impacts visitors but also disrupts partnerships that generate jobs and income for the town.
Christian Keldsen of the Greenland Business Association explained the dispute revolves around differing interpretations of “local.” Legally, all operating companies are Greenlandic, even if some owners live abroad, such as in Denmark.
Diskoline stated they believe there is room for both established and new operators, with growing visitor numbers supporting a diverse tourism sector. They emphasized collaboration, mutual respect, and prioritizing local hiring before considering foreign candidates, including from Denmark.
Greenland Cruises declined to comment, and Vela Nordic did not respond to requests.
