When London’s Unity Diner announced at the end of 2024 that it would soon be closing for good, it anticipated some sadness from its customers. The not-for-profit restaurant had been a pioneer in the city’s vegan scene, serving innovative dishes like 3D-printed “vegan steak”—made from plant protein with a fibrous, meat-like texture—and strikingly realistic “tofish” (tofu-based fish), alongside classic burgers and fries. Combined with its fundraising for animal sanctuaries, the restaurant had earned a loyal following among vegans.
But the reaction went beyond what anyone expected. “We had people coming in crying and hugging the staff,” says co-founder Andy Crumpton, his surprise clear. For its plant-based customers, Unity Diner’s closure felt like another blow—a seemingly thriving meat-free spot shutting down without warning.
Ask anyone who regularly visits plant-based restaurants—whether they’re vegan, vegetarian, or just cutting back on meat—and they’ll likely tell you about a favourite place that has closed in recent years. In London alone, popular spots like Rudy’s Vegan Diner, Halo Burger, and Neat Burger have shut their doors. Friends around the country have mourned losses too: The Glasvegan in Glasgow, Veggie Republic in Liverpool, Jungle Bird in Birmingham. Some closures are announced with fanfare; others fade quietly, leaving disappointed customers and online speculation in their wake.
There are two common theories for why so many apparently successful plant-based restaurants are closing. Some point to broader struggles in the hospitality industry, while others blame oversimplified debates about protein and processed foods, which may have turned people away from veganism. With endless talk about carnivore diets and myths around plant-based eating—like the idea that vegans can’t build muscle, or that plant milk is always unhealthy—it’s understandable why some might be hesitant.
Despite the negativity, interest in veganism is actually growing. Environmental and health concerns are now bigger motivators for giving up animal products than animal welfare alone. According to Damian Watson of the Vegan Society, around 2 million people in Britain now identify as vegan or follow a plant-based diet—with “vegan” often referring to a broader philosophy, and “plant-based” focusing more on diet.
Crumpton’s observation about unease in the sector is accurate. As Herbivorous, a small northern England chain, noted when it closed in April: “It seems you can’t open social media without reading about another hospitality business shutting down.” Then came last month’s news that New York’s Eleven Madison Park (EMP)—the world’s only three-Michelin-starred plant-based restaurant—would be reintroducing meat to its menu this autumn. Head chef Daniel Humm explained the decision by saying, “The best way to continue to champion plant-based cooking is to let everyone participate around the table.” The announcement was poorly received by EMP’s nearly half a million followers. One Instagram user commented, “So good to hear climate change and animal ethics have been solved and we can focus on the most important moral issue: maximising profit.”
Another critic of EMP’s “backwards move” was Clare Every, a vegan influencer known for showcasing London’s best plant-based food.On her blog, The Little London Vegan, Every often hears from her followers when a restaurant closes down. “I get so many messages from people saying, ‘Just so you know, this place on your website has shut.’ And I think, ‘I had no idea they were even struggling,'” she says.
Ask Every—or many British vegans—which recent closure hit the hardest, and they’ll likely mention The Vurger Co. Founded by Rachel Hugh in 2016, Vurger seemed like a major success. It had four locations in London, Brighton, and Manchester, a cookbook, and a line of condiments sold by Co-op, Ocado, and Whole Foods. Its menu was diverse and consistently delicious, featuring vegetable-based patties and mock meats, including a limited-edition “pork-crackling” burger so crisp and juicy that the memory still makes my mouth water.
Hugh says Vurger built a loyal following from the start and had plans to expand. But after COVID, priorities shifted. “Business decisions became more about day-to-day resilience and surviving the tough economy,” she explains. First, the Canary Wharf location closed. Then, in February 2024, Hugh announced the remaining three restaurants would shut as well.
Not all brands are so transparent about closing. Many simply stop posting on social media, their phone lines go dead, and websites show outdated information or fail to load. In one case, a once-popular vegan pasta chain with locations across England redirected its site to a suspicious-looking cam-girl page. The meat-free restaurant review app HappyCow usually has the most accurate updates, but relying on it puts the burden on customers rather than businesses.
However, closures aren’t always permanent. Last year, Manchester’s Wholesome Junkies shut its “packed every weekend” Cheetham Hill branch due to soaring costs, only to reopen in a new location months later. Unity Diner’s closure after Veganuary also seemed final. “We were just sinking deeper into debt,” co-founder Matthew Crumpton told me.
But support poured in, and for once, it wasn’t too little, too late. Veganuary was so profitable that Unity tripled its usual monthly earnings. Despite being a “done deal,” liquidation was stopped. The diner reopened in April, delighting and puzzling fans alike—but it felt like a much-needed victory. Crumpton clarifies that they’re still barely breaking even, but their London-exclusive vegan Sunday roast carvery—with unlimited sides, including the hard-to-perfect vegan Yorkshire pudding—has been a real “savior” since the relaunch.
Unity’s comeback goes against the grain in today’s hospitality industry. Between January and March this year, the UK saw an average of 20 restaurant, pub, and hotel closures per week, with the cost of living crisis continuing to take a toll. Consumers have less disposable income for eating out, while rising national insurance and minimum wage have made meals more expensive and feel like more of a luxury. Hugh says inflation hit Vurger hard—sometimes ingredients were cheaper at Tesco than from their wholesaler. Electricity bills also skyrocketed, forcing them to turn off grills during quiet periods, which caused major operational issues and created an “unsustainable food chain.”We may use your data to send newsletters, ads, and content funded by third parties. If you don’t have an account, we’ll create a guest account for you on theguardian.com to deliver this newsletter. You can complete full registration at any time. For more details on how we handle your data, please see our Privacy Policy. We use Google reCaptcha to protect our website, and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
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British classic… Unity’s tofish is a vegan take on traditional fish and chips. Photograph: alexioferrao.com
The vegan dining industry faces specific challenges. Misinformation about health—and what “healthy” even means—is widespread on social media, and vegan food, along with vegans themselves, has become an easy target. Although research from the Food Foundation and others shows that plant-based meat alternatives are generally better for the planet and often healthier than animal-based products—with fewer calories, less saturated fat, and more fiber—half of Europeans avoid plant-based meat and dairy because they want to steer clear of ultra-processed foods. “We’re fighting two battles at the same time,” says Every. “People either think, ‘It’s too healthy, there’s no protein, it won’t fill me up,’ or they say, ‘It’s processed, it’s not healthy.’”
Yet The Vegan Society’s statistics show there are more vegans than ever. Veganuary, which started in 2014, saw an estimated 25.8 million people worldwide try veganism in January 2025. “The appetite for plant-based food is still there, and many customers want to eat in line with their values,” Hugh notes. “What’s missing is the structural support to help these businesses thrive.”
While veganism is growing, Watson points out that eating habits have shifted. If the vegan boom of the 2010s was marked by the rise of “dirty” vegan junk food spots serving items like chick’n nuggets and saucy burgers, today’s popular restaurants reflect a renewed focus on protein. Every highlights that vegan Asian restaurants, such as London’s Tofu Vegan and Mali Vegan Thai, or the national chain Wawin, are doing well—cuisines with a long tradition of using vegetables, tofu, and other soy products.
Another challenge for the industry is one that, on the surface, seems positive: as meat-free living gains popularity, most UK restaurants—especially in larger cities—have improved their plant-based offerings. It’s now easy to swap a beef burger for Beyond Meat, and vegans are no longer limited to chips or a bland side salad. Most places now cater to them.
A side effect of this is that groups with mixed dietary preferences and tight budgets are less likely to visit exclusively plant-based restaurants. In what Hugh calls “a super price-sensitive market,” an independent vegan restaurant can’t compete with a £5 vegan burger from McDonald’s. Crumpton adds that hospitality is tough enough when you cater to everyone; being “a bit niche” only makes it harder.
Hugh argues that the common belief that omnivorous restaurants serve “everyone,” while fully vegan ones do not, needs to be challenged. This was the reasoning behind EMP’s Humm reintroducing meat. Every disagrees: “They said they changed their menu to be more inclusive, but I think nothing is more inclusive than plant-based food. Veganism has an image problem… [but] it’s for everyone.”
There’s also a sense that vegans feel a stronger connection to the restaurants they visit.It means more than the average diner. This is what Watson refers to as veganism’s “team spirit.” When a restaurant closes, it often feels like losing a member of the group, especially in small UK towns where purely plant-based options are still rare, if they exist at all. That’s why people were emotional during what they thought would be their last visit to Unity Diner—it represents a community that extends far beyond just food.
Hugh recalls the day she announced Vurger’s immediate closure and the overwhelming response from fans: “We heard from so many people—longtime customers, past and present staff, fellow founders—and it reminded us why we started in the first place. The message we kept hearing was: ‘You mattered.'” These waves of support are often bittersweet, filled with regret: if only we had visited more while we had the chance.
But if Unity Diner had simply vanished without the social media support following its closure announcement, it wouldn’t be here today, with burgers sizzling on the grill and meat-free gravy being served. “It wasn’t part of any plan,” Crumpton admits. “We were finished. We were losing a lot of money every month, and somehow we managed to turn things around.” Of course, “things can change at any time,” and success for a vegan restaurant in 2025 is all relative. But for now, Crumpton is content: “I don’t think we’re making money, but we’re not losing it either—put it that way.”
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about the challenges facing vegan eateries written in a natural tone with clear direct answers
Definitions Basics
Q What does plantbased actually mean
A It means food made entirely from plantslike vegetables grains nuts and fruitswith no animal products like meat dairy or eggs
Q Whats the difference between vegan and plantbased
A Vegan is a strict lifestyle and ethical choice that avoids all animal products Plantbased is often a more flexible term focused just on the diet and sometimes allows for small amounts of animalderived ingredients
Q Why are we suddenly hearing about vegan restaurants closing
A After a big boom in popularity a few years ago the market became very crowded Now many are struggling to stand out and keep customers coming back regularly in a tougher economy
Reasons Challenges
Q Whats the main reason these restaurants are struggling
A The biggest reason is often high costs and not enough consistent customers to cover them Plantbased ingredients can be expensive and they appeal to a smaller portion of the overall dining market
Q Why would a vegan restaurant start serving meat That seems to defeat the purpose
A Its a business survival tactic By adding meat options they can attract a wider audience to increase sales and stay open even if it goes against their original ethos
Q Is the demand for vegan food going down
A Not exactly The demand is still growing but its happening more slowly than the number of new vegan restaurants that opened Also major chain restaurants and grocery stores now offer great vegan options creating more competition
Q Are there other problems besides competition
A Yes Issues like high rent rising food costs and the challenge of creating a menu that is both innovative and appealing to a broad audience are huge factors
Examples The Big Picture
Q Can you give me an example of a famous vegan restaurant that closed
A Yes by CHLOE in the UK closed all its locations In the US places like Veggie Grill have closed some stores These were once very popular chains that couldnt sustain their growth
