The party was about to begin, and the greenhouse was prepared to host an intimate Hawaiian luau among the orchids, warmed by an unseasonably mild November. Giant clam shells served as platters, and miniature hibachis were set up for grilling Dungeness crab. Someone had placed a small, pink pineapple atop a watermelon like a decorative pin. The hostess had thought about hiring a hula dancer but opted for a more striking centerpiece: a 19-pound suckling pig, draped in tropical flowers and adorned with a bronze finish.
It was unmistakably a Martha Stewart creation. This was before her media empire, in simpler times when she worked as a caterer in Connecticut. Even then, her brilliance shone through. It takes a special, almost daring, spark to see a single detail—like an orchid—and envision an entire luau for twenty. Later, Stewart documented the event in her 1982 cookbook debut, Entertaining, filled with lush photos and step-by-step guides for dishes like chicken wings with banana. “The pig wore a necklace of starfruit,” she noted—a line that, surprisingly, isn’t even among the top ten most outrageous sentences in the book.
I’ve been reflecting on Entertaining lately. Last year, I bought a first edition on eBay, claiming it was for serious research, but I was completely captivated. It’s arguably the finest book ever written on hosting—technically a cookbook, but in reality, something more enigmatic. Stewart excels at unconventional advice. If you lack a large dining room, why not set up small round tables in the bedroom with linens that match the sheets? The evening gains an edge from the subtle possibility it could turn into a swingers’ party. For a minimalist centerpiece, consider a single large Bermuda onion or “a twisted brown tree fungus to hold a delicate branch or flower.” Plan ahead. You might hire a balalaika player for a Russian-themed dinner or borrow a silver samovar from friends.
Of course, Stewart has her flaws, and they’re as expected. She’s out of touch, embodying the excesses of aspirational Waspy hostess culture. Recipes like borscht in goblets or turkey-shaped madeleines are impractical for the average cook. I’ve shared these criticisms, directed at Stewart and others who treat entertaining like a diplomatic mission. But focusing on these points misses the mark entirely, like scolding the moon for its mysterious, beautiful glow.
The real issue is that we’ve resented the effort of entertaining for as long as we’ve had the privilege to do so. About a century ago, cocktail parties emerged as a clever alternative to formal dinners, allowing us to spend less time and more money on mediocre food with people we don’t particularly like. By the 1950s, as cocktail parties faced backlash, writers proposed alternatives like after-dinner wine gatherings or sitting-room dinners.
Now, in the aftermath of 1980s dinner party extravagance, we’ve abandoned such formalities. Instead, we invite people over in a casual, Alison Roman-inspired style, with her cookbooks setting the standard for understated elegance. Today, it’s Le Creuset dishes, not silver samovars, that hint at refined taste. This is the cycle: action and reaction, with the art of feeding people evolving with trends. But I can’t help but wonder if, in our eagerness to avoid the excesses of the ’80s, we’ve gone too far—if we’ve discarded the starfruit-adorned pig along with the bathwater.Don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater. Among the postmodern touches of Martha Stewart’s entertaining style lies a simple truth we often overlook: the whole point of hosting is to have fun. Fun isn’t the same as being casual or effortless. It comes from realizing that home entertaining can and should break from the ordinary—which is why I love Stewart’s ideas for tempura parties, omelette brunches for sixty, or dinners featuring six different soups. They remind us that memorable gatherings aren’t about recreating a restaurant experience at home, but about imagining whimsical, fantastical feasts that no practical establishment would ever attempt.
This change of heart has been thrilling for me. Out with sincerity, in with the absurd. I’ve been enthusiastically recommending “Entertaining”—a cookbook I’ll probably never cook from—to anyone who’ll listen. I insist there are lessons to be learned and visions only a true visionary could interpret, like the “Neoclassic Dinner for Eight to Ten.” I felt secure in knowing most people couldn’t get their hands on a copy, as those rare editions have become collector’s items selling for hundreds of dollars. But now, 43 years after its first publication and in a political climate reminiscent of the 1980s when it was written, “Entertaining” has been reissued. This new printing is for a fresh generation of culinary dreamers. In one of the most spectacular lines ever written, inside or outside a cookbook, Stewart instructs, “Cook remaining 100 lobsters.” It’s the best—and worst—influence on cooking any of us could imagine.
Ruby Tandoh’s “All Consuming” is published by Serpent’s Tail at £18.99. To order a copy for £16.14, visit guardianbookshop.com. “Entertaining” by Martha Stewart is published by Clarkson Potter (available in the UK on 1 December). To order a copy, visit guardianbookshop.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about why Martha Stewarts imaginative menus continue to inspire
General Beginner Questions
Q Whats so special about Martha Stewarts menus
A She combines classic elegant cooking with playful creative twists making food both beautiful and fun
Q Can you give an example of her imaginative approach
A Sure A turkeyshaped madeleine is a perfect example It takes a simple classic French tea cake and turns it into a festive themed treat
Q Why would a simple bowl of borscht be considered inspiring
A It shows that she values humble traditional dishes from around the world and presents them with the same care and elegance as a fancy meal proving that all good food deserves attention
Q Im not a professional chef Can I still be inspired by her ideas
A Absolutely Her concepts encourage you to add a small creative touch to your everyday meals like using a unique garnish or a funshaped cookie cutter
Q What is the main benefit of cooking this way
A It transforms cooking from a daily chore into an enjoyable creative outlet that impresses and delights your family and guests
Advanced Practical Questions
Q How does her use of imaginative menus go beyond just presentation
A Its about storytelling A menu with borscht and turkeyshaped madeleines creates a cohesive themeperhaps a modern take on a rustic Eastern European Thanksgivingthat engages all the senses and makes a meal memorable
Q Isnt this kind of cooking overly complicated and timeconsuming
A It can be but the lasting inspiration comes from the idea You dont have to replicate it exactly The goal is to adopt her mindset of adding thoughtful personal details where you can
Q Whats a common mistake people make when trying to emulate this style
A They try to do too much at once and get overwhelmed The key is to focus on one imaginative element per meal like a creatively shaped bread or a vibrantly colored soup
Q How has her approach influenced modern food culture
A She helped pioneer the food as lifestyle concept where the presentation theme and experience of a meal are just as important as the taste heavily influencing food blogs social media and entertaining shows
