Ko a cikin shekarun 1990, wasu sun yi watsi da Jake da Dinos Chapman a matsayin manyan matasa da suka wuce gona da iri suna sayar da girgiza don kanta. Duk da haka aikinsu ya fi kusa da ba wa wannan nuni mai zurfi mai ban takaici lokacin ainihin zurfi. Sculpture ɗinsu Great Deeds Against the Dead, wanda ya dogara da bugu na Goya da ke nuna ta'addanci daga Yaƙin Napoleon, yana nuna gawawwakin tsirara da aka yanke sassa da jini suna rataye a kan itace. Yana tayar da tambayoyi game da yaƙi da fasaha, game da yadda ake wakiltar zafi, da kuma ko fasaha za ta iya yin amfani na ɗabi'a. Mafi kyawun fasahar Biritaniya ta shekarun 1990 haka take—maras kunya, maras mutunci, da ban tsoro a sama, amma ba zato ba tsammani mai hankali da motsin rai a ƙasa. Abin takaici, wannan nuni ba ɗaya daga cikin waɗannan abubuwan ba.
Za ka yi tsammanin Tate Britain za ta so yin adalci ga shekaru goma da waɗannan gidajen tarihi na Millbank suka taka rawar gani, suna karɓar bakuncin Kyautar Turner a shekarun da saniya da aka raba biyu, gidaje na siminti, da takin giwa suka sa al'umma suka yi muhawara. A farkon shekarun 1990, babu wanda ya ɗauki Biritaniya a matsayin jagora a fasahar zamani. Zuwa shekaru dubu, an fi saninmu da sabuwar fasaha fiye da sabbin litattafai.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Mara lahani … Two Similar Swimming Forms in Endless Motion (Broken), 1993, na Damien Hirst. Hoto: Damien Hirst da Science Ltd/DACS Images
Nuni da zai sake ziyartar fasahar Biritaniya ta ƙarshen ƙarni cikin ban mamaki zai zama abin sha'awa. Maimakon haka, an gayyaci tsohon editan Vogue Edward Enninful don ya shirya nasa sigar fantasy na wannan shekaru goma, yana haɗa fasaha da fashion tare da mai da hankali sosai kan fashion. Akwai ƙari game da Isabella Blow fiye da Rachel Whiteread, wanda aka wakilta da farkon simintin ciki na kwalbar ruwan zafi. Damien Hirst yana da ƙananan sharks guda biyu marasa lahani da suka daidaita a kan dogo mai da'ira. Daga wannan, babu wata hanya ta fahimtar yadda aikinsa na farko ya yi kama da fuskantar babban bakin tiger shark na mutuwa. Wataƙila fasaharsa ta shekarun 1990 har yanzu za ta iya motsa mu, ko wataƙila ta zama wauta da lokaci, amma babu isasshen ta a nan don ma fara yanke shawara.
Wannan ba ainihin nuni ba ne. Wannan shimfidar mujalla ce. Ba wai kawai akwai mujallun salo a cikin nunin ba, amma ƙirarsa tana da rashin zurfin numfashi na shimfidar kyalli da ke tallata jigon sa maras zurfi—a wannan yanayin, "The 90s"—ta hanyar zane mai ban sha'awa na hotuna da aka haɗa da ban mamaki. Amma sanya hoton fashion tare da fasahar tunani mummunan ra'ayi ne. Idan ka ɗauki hotunan fashion da muhimmanci, za ka rage fasahar zuwa wani salo kawai. Idan, kamar ni, kana damuwa da fasahar, fashion ɗin ya zama fanko.
Hoton Juergen Teller na 1996 Kristen McMenamy No 3 yana rataye kusa da aikin Sarah Lucas na 1997 Chicken Knickers. Hoton Teller yana nuna batunsa tsirara tana shan taba, da zuciyar lipstick da aka zana a jikinta tana ɗauke da kalmar "Versace." Me yake faɗa banda "Sayi Versace"? Yanzu duba hoton Lucas na kaza mai ɗanye da aka makala a kan wandon wani. Yana da ban dariya—babban aiki a kan matacciyar kaza, daga mai fasaha mai hazaka na rabuwa, kamar yadda sculpture na Lucas na "Bunny" a kan kujera da ƙananan ƙafafu masu safa ke tunatar da kai.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Hazaka na rabuwa … Chicken Knickers, 1997, na Sarah Lucas. Hoto: Tate Photography/Ladabi mai fasaha da Sadie Coles HQ, London
An fallasa Teller a matsayin ƙwararren mai salo kawai wanda hotunansa ba su da waƙa ko ma'ana. Hotonsa na Kate Moss ba shi da nisa ko asiri na zanen Gary Hume na ita da fuska mai kyalli, ƙarfe, madubi. Hume yana ba da ɗaya daga cikin ƴan lokutan da fashion da fasaha suka haɗu da gaske—amma a matsayin pop art, Kate ɗinsa ya fi sharhi mai ban tsoro, irin na Richard Hamilton kan shahara fiye da bikin Cool Britannia.
Ba wai nunin yana da abubuwa da yawa da zai faɗa game da wannan faɗaɗɗen pop-culture ba. Akwai daki gaba ɗaya cike da hotunan biki da ke nuna yanayin club, amma tabbas wani batu na 90s shine an farfado da pop na Biritaniya na yau da kullum. Ina tsammanin Enninful ya fi wayo da zai sami wuri ga Oasis ko Blur, balle Fat Les.
Maimakon haka, muna samun couture. A fili za ka iya ganin Alexander McQueen a matsayin mai fasaha. Amma gaskiya, dakin da aka keɓe ga "body horror" ya mamaye da kayan sa, waɗanda kawai suke da tasiri da girman kai. Idan suna bayyana wani abu, yana iya zama ƙiyayya ga mata, waɗanda ya tilasta su tafiya a kan catwalk cikin kaya da aka yi da waya da bouquet na ƙarfe. A cikin wannan dakin, hotuna masu girman kai, masu ban tsoro da Sean Ellis ya ɗauka don The Face sun rufe bango gaba ɗaya. Kusa da waɗannan, Jake da Dinos suna da zurfi sosai.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Hotuna masu girman kai, masu ban tsoro … The Dark Knight Returns, na Sean Ellis don The Face, 1998. Hoto: © Sean Ellis
Wasu ƙwararrun masu fasaha ba su fito da kyau ba. Helen Chadwick ta sami hotuna biyu na alama masu ban tsoro, yayin da fasahar Hamad Butt mai sha'awar mutuwa, wanda aka nuna da kyau a Whitechapel ba da daɗewa ba, an cushe shi a ƙarshen gallery. Chris Ofili ya sami ambato da No Woman, No Cry; Tracey Emin ta sami neon guda ɗaya. Wasu masu fasaha sun shahara da rashin su, daga Jeremy Deller zuwa Mat Collishaw zuwa marigayi, wanda ake matuƙar miss, Christine Borland.
Tsallake tallan wasiƙa
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Bayan tallan wasiƙa
Biki masu wahala, haya mai arha da gidaje marasa kyau: yadda fasaha da fashion na 90s suka sake bayyana al'adun Biritaniya
Karanta ƙari
Ko na yi kuskure? Shin Young British Art da gaske ya cancanci wannan kulawar da Tate ke yi masa, duk da cewa Tate ya sami riba sosai daga waɗannan masu fasaha? Wataƙila da gaske shirme ne. Amma ko da ba ka yarda da imanina cewa wasu fasahar daga wancan lokacin tana da ƙarfi da dawwama ba, tabbas ta cancanci isasshen wuri da za a gani da yanke hukunci.
Bayan dakuna bakwai kawai, ba zato ba tsammani ya ƙare. Ina fatan abin da na gani shine gabatarwa ga ƙarin fasaha, babbar fasaha, da isasshen wuri don jin daɗinta. Amma a'a. Shi ke nan. Za ka fita da rashin gamsuwa kamar yadda za ka yi bayan ka shiga cikin kwafin The Face mai shekaru 30 a ɗakin jira na likitan haƙori. The 90s yana a Tate Britain, London, daga 8 Oktoba 2026 har zuwa 14 Fabrairu 2027.
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
FAQs The 90s Art and Fashion Review This Isnt an Exhibition Its a Magazine Spread
1 Menene The 90s Art and Fashion review game da shi
Sharhi ne mai suka game da wani aiki ko nuni da ke da'awar bincika fasaha da fashion na shekarun 1990 Mai sharhin yana jayayya cewa ba ainihin nuni ba newwannan ya fi kama da shimfidar mujalla mai kyalli duk salo babu zurfi
2 Menene wannan ba nuni ba ne shimfidar mujalla ce ke nufi
Yana nufin nunin yana da kyau amma ba shi da bincike mahallin da ma'ana da ainihin nuni ya kamata ya samu Ya fi game da gani da yanayi fiye da ra'ayoyi
3 Me ya sa za a kira nuni shimfidar mujalla
Saboda an shirya shi kamar editan fashionhotuna da aka yi wa salo a hankali shahararrun sunaye da kyawawan kayan kwalliyabut ba tare da labari ko ilimi na nunin gidan tarihi ba
4 Shin wannan mummunan abu ne
Ba koyaushe ba Shimfidar mujalla na iya zama mai daɗi da ban sha'awa a gani Sukan shine cewa ana gabatar da shi a matsayin wani abu mai zurfia nuniwanda ba haka ba
5 Menene bambanci tsakanin nuni da shimfidar mujalla
Nuni yawanci yana da bayyanannen hujja bincike da mahallin Shimfidar mujalla tana ba da fifiko ga hotuna yanayi da jan hankalin kasuwanci
6 Yaya yanayin fasaha da fashion ya kasance a shekarun 1990
Ya kasance cakuda grunge minimalism streetwear da high fashion Masu fasaha da masu zane sun haɗu sosaika yi tunanin Helmut Lang Maison Margiela da masu daukar hoto kamar Corinne Day
7 Me ya sa fasaha da fashion na shekarun 1990 suka shahara yanzu
Nostalgia Zamanin yana jin mai ɗanye da gaskiya ga mutane da yawa kuma salon sabaggy jeans slip dresses minimalismci gaba da dawowa
8 Menene matsalolin gama gari da nunin da ke da jigon 90s
Yawanci suna dogaro da clichés kuma suna tsallake siyasa tattalin arziki da muryoyi daban-daban na shekaru goma
9 Za ka iya ba da misali na kyakkyawan nuni na fasaha da fashion na shekarun 1990
The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier ko In America A Lexicon of Fashion sun kula da mahallin da sana'a da kyau Ƙananan nunin a wurare kamar Fashion Institute of Technology ma suna yin haka
