Kwano sittin na miya mai koren ruwa suna jira yara su zo. Ɗalibai suna garzawa daga darussan safiya, suna ɗaukar kwanonin da hannaye kuma suna fara shanye. Babu korafi, babu ƙi. (To, wataƙila ƴan fuskokin "bleurgh".) Da zarar an gama miyar chicory, sai su shiga babban abinci: falafel, tagine na kayan lambu na Bahar Rum da couscous. Wasu suna neman ƙari; yawancin suna ɗaukar ɗan itace don kayan zaki kuma suna gudu don wasa. Wannan shine abincin rana na yau da kullun na Alhamis a makarantar firamare ta BS De Stadspoort a Ghent, Belgium. Ana ba da irin waɗannan menus ɗin marasa nama a wasu makarantu da wuraren kula da yara a duk faɗin birnin, da kuma cibiyoyin al'umma, gidajen kulawa da wuraren zama masu taimako, ba tare da ambaton yawancin wuraren cin abinci na aiki da gidajen abinci ba. Alhamis a Ghent a hukumance ita ce "Ranar Veggie", lokacin da ake ƙarfafa mazauna su guje wa nama da kifi. To ta yaya birni ya sa yaransa - da kowa da kowa - su ci ganyayyensu?
Ba abin da ya faru cikin dare ba. "Labarin nasarar Ghent ɗaya ne daga cikin ƙungiyar tushe mai ban mamaki, tare da mutane suna neman ƙarin matakin sauyin yanayi. Amma sihirin ya faru lokacin da 'yan siyasa suka saurare su kuma suka aiwatar da manufofi don gabatar da Ranar Veggie ta Alhamis a 2009," in ji Vanessa Debruyne, shugabar sadarwa na ProVeg Belgium mai zaman kanta, wanda ke nuna mini a cikin gari. "Ya fara tafiya, kamfanoni da gidajen abinci sun shiga, jama'a sun saba da shi, kuma ƙarin 'yan kasuwa sun koma ga abincin tushen shuka. Ba mu daina tsayawa tun daga lokacin! Ghent ita ce mafi kyawun gari a Belgium don abincin tushen shuka."
Ranar Veggie ita ce kawai farkon, in ji Hafsa El-Bazioui, mataimakiyar magajin garin Green na Ghent, wadda ta yi keke don shiga mu (tsakiyar gari ba ta da mota sosai tun 2017). "Shekaru kaɗan da suka wuce, mun koma ba da fifiko ga furotin tushen shuka," in ji ta. A 2021, gwamnatin Flemish ta ƙaddamar da Green Deal Protein Shift - alƙawarin canza rabon furotin dabbobi zuwa na shuka da ake cinyewa daga 60:40 zuwa 40:60 nan da 2030. Ghent ta riga ta cimma burin.
Baya ga Alhamis na masu cin ganyayyaki da zaɓuɓɓukan masu cin ganyayyaki kowace rana, masu ba da abinci na makaranta sun mayar da jita-jita na gargajiya na nama kamar burgers, tsiran alade da ƙwallayen nama zuwa gauraye, suna yanke aƙalla rabin naman sa ko alade kuma suna maye gurbinsa da, a ce, lentil. Miya na iya haɗa nama da chickpeas ko wake. Ƙoƙari mai ban mamaki yana shiga cikin sanya kowane jita-jita ɗanɗano mai kyau: ana duba su ta hanyar "kwamitin ɗanɗano" na masana abinci, masu dafa abinci, ƙwararrun kula da yara da mutanen da suka ji daɗin ɗanɗano, ɗaci, laushi da jin baki. Ana gyara da inganta girke-girke akai-akai bisa ga martani daga yara, iyaye da ma'aikatan makaranta. Sakamakon haka, yara suna samun cin abincin da suka sani kuma suke so, amma jita-jitan sun fi lafiya kuma sun fi kyau ga duniya - Ghent ta rage sawun carbon na abincin makarantarta da 38% tun 2018.
Ko da yake ita kanta mai cin ganyayyaki ce, El-Bazioui ta yi imanin rage cin nama gaba ɗaya ita ce manufa mafi inganci kuma mai yiwuwa, maimakon ƙoƙarin shawo kan mutane su yanke shi gaba ɗaya. "Lokacin da ka isa ga mutane da yawa, tasirin ya fi girma fiye da idan ka mai da hankali ga ƙaramin rukuni na masu cin ganyayyaki," in ji ta. "Wannan falsafata ce a cikin abinci, a cikin siyasa, a cikin rayuwa."
Wannan hanyar ɓoye ana maimaita ta a duk faɗin birnin. Na shiga cibiyar fasaha ta Viernulvier, wanda kuma aka sani da De Vooruit, don tattaunawa da Tom De Vleesschauwer, mai kula da kicin ɗinta - De Vooruit ya shahara don babban gidan abincinta na art deco da kuma shirinta na wasan kwaikwayo, rawa, fim da kiɗa. "Shekaru kaɗan da suka wuce, mun mai da madarar oat ta zama ta asali: idan ba ka nemi madarar saniya ba, za ka sami oat," in ji De Vleesschauwer. "Kusan 90% na abokan ciniki yanzu suna da madarar oat. Idan muna da alama da ke cewa za ka iya zaɓa, zai kasance 10-20% kawai." Wasu canje-canje sun zo gidan abincin De Vooruit kuma. Miyar yanzu koyaushe tana da tushen shuka; jita-jitar ranar tana da ganyayyaki; ma'aikata da masu wasan kwaikwayo suna samun "buffet na ganyayyaki irin na Ottolenghi" kowace rana maimakon cuku da charcuterie. Kuma, kamar a cikin wuraren cin abinci na makaranta, ƴan jita-jitan nama a cikin menu - yau kawai spaghetti bolognese da ƙwallayen nama a cikin miyar tumatir - an haɗa su. "Mun yanke naman da 70% kuma mun ƙara karas, mun yanke su da girman ɗaya - 30% har yanzu yana ba da ɗanɗano da tunanin nama, kuma karas yana ba da zaƙi," in ji De Vleesschauwer. "Mutane suna cewa tushen shuka ba shi da yawa, amma muna da masu sauraro da yawa." Akwai kuma ɗimbin kasuwancin tushen shuka gaba ɗaya a cikin birnin, kamar Madam Bakster, inda na sha kofi da madarar hazelnut na gida kuma na cinye cookies ɗin chocolate-chip masu arziki, masu taunawa sabo daga tanda. Laura Verhulst, wadda ta kafa, tana ganin gidan abincinta a matsayin mai haɗa kai, ba ƙasa ba. "Ina so in yi kayan zaki da kowa zai iya jin daɗi: tushen shuka, marasa allergen, marasa sukari mai tacewa," in ji ta. A Knol & Kool, gidan abinci na tushen shuka da ƙaramin kasuwa, 85% na abokan ciniki ba ma masu cin ganyayyaki ba ne. Mai shi, Stijn Sprengers, ya ce: "Yanayinmu ba shine, 'Fuck you, masu cin nama'. Muna ƙoƙarin zama masu karimci kamar yadda zai yiwu kuma mu sa kowa ya ji maraba." Duba hoto a cikakken allo Kofi da madarar hazelnut na gida a Madam Bakster. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian Oh!Ma gidan abinci ne da ke ƙwarewa a cikin abincin Belgian na ta'aziyya na tushen shuka. "Muna ba da abinci da ke jin kamar gida: stew, vol-au-vent, ƙwallayen nama," in ji Hannah, ɗaliba kuma ma'aikaciyar hidima. "Muna gabatar da shi ga salon rayuwar mutane ta hanyar da ba ta tura ba, ba ta shiga cikin fuska ba. Mutane da yawa suna mamakin cewa abincin tushen shuka ne. Yawancin masu shigowa ba su gane ba." Gidan abincin yana yin duk wasu madadin naman tushen shuka da kayan yaji, kamar sauce andalouse da Belgium ke ƙauna, mai mahimmanci tare da fries. Ya ce kowane jita-jita na tushen shuka yana adana har zuwa 5kg na CO₂ da lita 2,000 na ruwa idan aka kwatanta da daidaitaccen tushen dabba. Hannah ita kanta ba mai cin ganyayyaki ba ce, amma "kaza" da naman kaza vol-au-vent na Oh!Ma da "cheezy bacon" loaded fries sun rinjaye ta. "Na fi son betterballs [nau'in vegan na abincin bar snack bitterballen] fiye da na asali," in ji ta. "Ina neman tushen shuka sau da yawa. Ina tsammanin ba zai yi ɗanɗano mai kyau ba - yin aiki a nan ya canza hakan." Baya ga irin waɗannan kasuwancin masu zaman kansu, Ghent kuma tana da al'adar alfahari ta "gidajen abinci na zamantakewa" masu araha, inda kowa ke maraba - har da masu yawon buɗe ido - kuma farashin mazauna ya bambanta bisa ga ikon su na biya. Ina cin abincin rana a Parnassus, gidan abinci na zamantakewa a cikin wani tsohon coci na Franciscan mai kyau, inda abinci mai kwas biyu ya kasance €16 [£13.50] cikakken farashi, ko €7/€3.50 ga waɗanda ke karɓar wasu fa'idodin jin daɗin zamantakewa. A bara, 67% na abokan ciniki sun biya farashi mai rangwame. Farashin ya haɗa da miyar kayan lambu (yau courgette) da zaɓi na manyan jita-jita biyu. Da yake Alhamis ce, manyan biyun masu cin ganyayyaki ne (babban yanki na quiche na kabewa mai cuku) da tushen shuka (seitan da miyar naman kaza tare da roasted potatoes), duka ana ba da su tare da salad. Akwai zaɓin nama sau biyu a mako da jita-jitar kifi a Juma'a, ma'ana 70% na menu na masu cin ganyayyaki ne ko tushen shuka. Duba hoto a cikakken allo A gidan abinci na tushen shuka da ƙaramin kasuwa Knol & Kool, 85% na abokan ciniki ba ma masu cin ganyayyaki ba ne. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian Nicholas, babban mai dafa abinci, ya bayyana salon dafa shi. "Mun yi imani da jin daɗi mai tsafta tare da ƙaramin tasiri ga duniya," in ji shi. "Muna dafa abinci kamar yadda zai yiwu: sabo, lafiya kuma ba tare da kirim mai nauyi ko mai ba. Muna kuma yaƙi da ɓarnatar da abinci sosai." Shi da ƙungiyarsa suna ciyar da kusan mutane 180 a rana, wani lokacin har 250, kuma suna samar da kusan babu ɓarna. Abincin rana yana raguwa lokacin da na isa, amma cocin har yanzu rabi cike da mutane na kowane zamani: su kaɗai, ma'aurata, tare da iyali ko ƙungiyoyin abokai. Duba hoto a cikakken allo 'Muna ƙoƙarin sa kowa ya ji "Maraba," in ji Stijn Sprengers, mai Knol & Kool. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian
Parnassus ɗaya ce daga cikin gidajen abinci huɗu da Ateljee ke gudanarwa, kamfani da ke kula da ayyukan aikin yi a Ghent. Wasu shirye-shiryen sun haɗa da shagunan kayan sawa na biyu, shagon keke, aikin lambu na birni da cibiyoyin ƙwarewar dijital. Tom Wauters, babban manajan Ateljee, ya ce: "Gidajen abincin suna ɗaukar mutanen da suka daɗe ba su da aiki, don taimaka musu su koma kasuwar aiki. Mun yi imani sosai cewa kowa yana da basira." Masu dafa abinci a Parnassus tabbas suna da basira - miyana tana da daɗi - kuma menus ɗin da ke canzawa kowace rana cike da jita-jita na tushen shuka masu ƙirƙira.
Bayan abincin rana, na nufi dakin gwaje-gwajen biotech a wani filin kimiyya da ke cikin Jami'ar Ghent. Wannan shine gidan Those Vegan Cowboys, wani sabon shiri na waɗanda suka kafa The Vegetarian Butcher, alamar madadin nama da yanzu kamfanin Dutch Vivera ya mallaka. Ghent tana da tarihin haɓaka sabbin abubuwa na tushen shuka: an kafa alamar Alpro marar kiwo a nan a 1980 kuma har yanzu tana da hedkwata a cikin birnin.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
'Cukin nan gaba' … camembert na gwaji da Those Vegan Cowboys suka haɓaka. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian
Those Vegan Cowboys suna kan gaba a canjin furotin. Suna samar da casein - furotin dabba da ake amfani da shi wajen samar da cuku - daga ƙananan halittu maimakon shanu, tumaki da awaki. Steven Geysens, shugaban ilimin halittar kwayoyin, ya bayyana dalilin. "Cuku ɗaya ne daga cikin manyan abubuwan da mutane ke so lokacin da suka koma cin ganyayyaki. Shine manufa mai tsarki na samfuran marasa dabba."
Me yasa cuku na tushen shuka har yanzu, gaba ɗaya, yake da muni? "Babu furotin shuka da ke da tasiri ɗaya da casein. Yana da mahimmanci don gelation, miƙewa, narkewa, ƙimar abinci mai gina jiki, ɗanɗano …" Geysens ya ce madadin cuku shine kawai 1% na jimlar sayan cuku a duniya, yayin da madarar marasa kiwo yanzu suka zama 14% na tallace-tallacen madara. Ya nuna mini ɗakuna daban-daban a cikin dakin gwaje-gwajen, inda ƙwararrun fasaha masu farin riga ke aiki tuƙuru. Ina jin tawali'u cewa da yawa daga cikin ƙwararrun masu hankali an sadaukar da su don ba masu cin ganyayyaki allon cuku mai daɗi, amma Geysens ya gyara ni - Those Vegan Cowboys suna da hangen nesa mafi girma. Suna ganin wannan a matsayin cuku na gaba.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
'Kusan 90% na abokan ciniki yanzu suna da madarar oat' … Tom De Vleesschauwer, mai kula da kicin a De Vooruit. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian
"Wannan wani abu ne da zai iya zama mai dorewa, mai ɗorewa kuma ya taimaka ciyar da kowa a duniya. Zai sami ƙarancin kitse mai cike da ruwa kuma ba zai sami lactose, maganin rigakafi da hormone ba." Ya nuna mini alkaluma da ke nuna tasirin muhalli na cukuwar kiwo: shine mafi munin abinci dangane da amfani da ruwa, kuma ya fi alade muni don amfani da ƙasa da fitar da iskar gas. Manoma har yanzu za a buƙaci su yi cuku marar dabba, in ji shi, don shuka amfanin gona masu ƙarancin tasiri kamar sugar beet da za a yi amfani da su a cikin aikin fermentation. "Yana da kyau ga manoma su sami damar bambanta," in ji shi.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Seitan da miyar naman kaza tare da roasted potatoes a Parnassus. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian
Masana kimiyyar cuku biyu, Hannes Decadt da Mathilde Blin, suna alfahari suna nuna mini wasu daga cikin abubuwan da suka ƙirƙira: gouda, camembert, mozzarella da feta. Suna kama da ainihin abin kuma ina matuƙar son gwada su, amma abin takaici har yanzu suna cikin tsauraran ka'idojin amincin abinci na EU. Zan dogara ga hukuncin masana kimiyya: "Mun san ba mu kai gaba ɗaya ba tukuna," in ji Decadt. "Ya fi kusa da ainihin cuku fiye da duk cukuwar tushen shuka a kasuwa saboda casein. Yana da laushi ɗaya. Yanzu muna mai da hankali kan ripening." Blin za ta san sun ci nasara lokacin da ta ji daɗin ba da camembert ɗinta ga iyayenta: "Iyalina Faransawa ne kuma suna da tsauri sosai, don haka su ne mafi kyawun masu suka," in ji ta.
Me kuma makomar Ghent ke ɗauke da shi? ProVeg yanzu yana mai da hankali kan ilimi mafi girma. A wata mai zuwa, yana gudanar da yaƙin neman zaɓe a jami'o'i da kwalejoji 15, yana ɗaukar masu dafa abinci na tushen shuka zuwa gidajen abinci na ɗalibai don gudanar da zaman dafa abinci da ɗanɗano. Hakanan yana bincika kiwon lafiya, bayan ya riga ya taimaka wa wani asibitin tabin hankali ya ninka abincin tushen shuka kuma ya haɗa wasu asibitoci da manoman kayan lambu na gida. Duba hoto a cikakken allo Masana kimiyyar cuku Steven Geysens, Mathilde Blin da Hannes Decadt na Those Vegan Cowboys. Hoto: Isabelle Pateer/The Guardian Ina mamakin dalilin da yasa canjin furotin na Ghent ya yi nasara sosai. Debruyne ta yi imanin ya dogara ne akan "haɗuwa ta musamman" ta matsin lamba na jama'a da manufofi. Verhulst, mai yin burodi, tana tunanin canjin yana da alaƙa da tarihin gurguzu mai ƙarfi na Ghent da kuzarin yawan ɗalibanta. "Ya samo asali ne daga asalin ruhun Ghent. A Antwerp, alal misali, komai cikakke ne kuma daidaitacce. Ghent ya fi na dabam." Ko menene dalili, yana aiki. "Shekaru goma sha biyu da suka wuce, 13% na yawan jama'a sun bayyana kansu a matsayin flexitarians. A wannan shekara, 83% masu ban mamaki sun yi haka," in ji Debruyne. "Juyin juya hali ne na shiru."
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
FAQs Alhamis Veggie Abubuwan Mamaki na Vegan Yadda Ghent Ta Zama Aljannar Tushen Shuka
1 Menene Alhamis Veggie
Alhamis Veggie wani shiri ne na Ghent da ke ƙarfafa mutane su ci nama ko kifi kowace Alhamis kuma su zaɓi abincin tushen shuka maimakon haka Ya fara a 2009 kuma shine yaƙin neman zaɓe na farko irinsa a Turai
2 Me yasa Alhamis ba wata rana ba
An zaɓi Alhamis a matsayin rana ta alama mai sauƙin tunawa Rana ɗaya ce a mako hanya ce marar matsin lamba don gwada cin tushen shuka ba tare da sadaukar da cikakken canjin salon rayuwa ba
3 Wanene ya fara Alhamis Veggie
Birnin Ghent ne ya ƙaddamar da shi a ƙarƙashin jagorancin ɗan majalisa na lokacin Tom Balthazar tare da ƙungiyar masu cin ganyayyaki ta gida EVA Birnin ya ayyana Alhamis Veggie ta farko a hukumance a watan Mayu 2009
4 Menene ma'anar abin mamaki na vegan a Ghent
Abubuwan mamaki na vegan suna nufin hanyoyin wasa da ba a zata ba da birnin ke haɓaka abincin tushen shuka ɗanɗano na popup samfurori kyauta menus na vegan na mamaki a gidajen abinci da yaƙin neman zaɓe na titi waɗanda ke barin mutane su gano abincin vegan ba tare da sun yi tsammani ba
5 Dole ne in zama mai cin ganyayyaki don shiga
A'a Alhamis Veggie a buɗe take ga kowa Manufar ita ce kawai a tsallake nama da kifi na kwana ɗaya a mako ba kwa buƙatar canza wani abu ba
6 Doka ce Alhamis Veggie
A'a yaƙin neman zaɓe ne na son rai Birnin ba ya hana nama Yana goyan bayan shirin ta hanyar ba da abincin masu cin ganyayyaki a wuraren cin abinci da makarantun da birnin ke gudanarwa a Alhamis da kuma haɓaka gidajen abincin da ke shiga
7 Ta yaya Ghent ta zama sananne a matsayin aljannar tushen shuka
Ghent ita ce birni na farko a duniya da ya inganta ranar rashin nama ta mako a hukumance Wannan matakin majagaba tare da shekaru na manufofi masu goyan baya gidajen abinci masu dacewa da vegan da yaƙin neman zaɓe na jama'a sun ba ta suna a matsayin ɗaya daga cikin biranen da suka fi dacewa da veg a Turai
8 Menene amfanin shiga Alhamis Veggie
Cin abinci mai lafiya
Ƙarancin tasirin muhalli
Abinci mai rahusa a yawancin lokuta
Damar gano sabbin abinci da girke-girke
