Labarin ɗaya daga cikin riguna da aka fi ɗaukar hoto da kwafi a cikin shekaru 50 da suka gabata ya fara da wata zip mai sauƙi. A shekarar 1998, mai zanen kaya Roland Mouret ya riga ya nuna tarin sa na farko a Makon Kaya na London kuma yana neman hanyar da zai iya samar da kyawawan tufafi cikin sauri. Ya haɗu da wata ƙaramar masana'antar tufafi ta Biritaniya, kuma a nan ne wasu hikimar masana'antu ta tsohuwar makaranta suka canza tsarinsa: ya koyi cewa dogon ɗinki ba ya fi guntu tsada.
Duk da kyakkyawar dabararsa ta ƙira ta ilhami, abin ya kasance kamar buɗe wani asiri—kuma hakan ya jagorance shi zuwa ga rigar da za ta sa sunansa ya shahara. "Ƙwaƙwalwata tana ta rawar jiki!" in ji shi. "Ban taɓa tunanin hakan ba—idan ka tsawaita riga da 50cm, sai ta zama cikakkiyar kaya. Kana buƙatar kayan haɗi kawai. Mayar da hankali kan riguna yana ba ka wata fitacciyar riga a farashin da ya dace."
An haifi rigar Galaxy mai matuƙar mannewa da jiki, tare da zip ɗinta na masana'antu a bayanta, inda ta shiga cikin tunanin jama'a ta bayan Beyoncé, Halle Berry da Victoria Beckham. Ƙirƙirar siffa ta musamman, ta taimaka wa Mouret ya ayyana kamannin ƙarshen 90s da farkon 2000s a London kamar yadda John Galliano ko Alexander McQueen suka yi shekaru kaɗan kafinsa.
Naomi Watts cikin rigar Galaxy a 2005. Hoto: James Devaney/WireImage
"Na sami layi biyu na a cikin littafin addini na kaya da gaske," in ji Mouret, wanda sabon tarihin rayuwarsa, I Am Roland Mouret – The Butcher's Boy Who Dressed the World, ke rubuta zamanin. "Tana da abin da muke kira a Faransanci 'wuyan abincin rana,' tare da kaifin tebur, da kuma kwanciyar da aka matse kamar ta wata fitacciyar 'yar wasan kwaikwayo ta 1950s, amma mai daɗi kuma ba ta yarinya ba sosai. Tana da namiji."
Yayin da Elizabeth Hurley ta mallaki wannan rigar Versace ta allurar aminci a al'ada bayan ta saka ta a kan kafet ɗin ja a 1994, inda ta bar rayuwarta ta biyu ga gidajen tarihi kawai, Galaxy ta sake bayyana a cikin tarin Mouret "cikin launi da masana'anta na kakar" tsawon shekaru—kuma ta ci gaba da fitowa a kan manyan taurarin Hollywood, daga Scarlett Johansson zuwa Naomi Watts.
"Kullum ina ganin mutanen da nake yi wa sutura daga baya," in ji shi yanzu a cikin wata hira ta bidiyo daga gidansa a London. "Ina so in sanya kaina a bayansu don in ga ra'ayinsu. Zip ɗin yana cikin hakan—yana bayan rigar. Da zarar ka ga fuska, tunaninka ya tsaya kuma ainihin mutumin yana nan." Hanya ce ta ƙirar tufafi da zai ba da ita daga baya a matsayin jagora ga Victoria Beckham; ana iya ganin siffar Galaxy a cikin tarin ta na farko.
A cikin littafin, wanda cikakken labari ne mai gaskiya kuma mai motsa rai game da rayuwarsa a karkarar Faransa, Paris da London, Mouret ya rubuta game da binciken jima'i a lokacin matashi. Zai zama wani ɓangare na bincike da haɓakawa na Galaxy: "Na yi jima'i da mata amma na san ba ni da madaidaici," in ji shi. "Haɗin gwiwa ne. Ba na ƙoƙarin tabbatar da namijina ba, abin mamaki ne kawai, gano jiki ta hanyar sha'awa. Rigar ta kasance game da daidaito. Ina so in ƙirƙiri sigar mata ta kwat ɗin maza." Ɗaya daga cikin shahararrun da suka saka ta, Dita Von Teese, wadda Mouret ya kwatanta a matsayin "'yar wasa," ita ce ta fi dacewa da ita bayan wani lokaci na girman sifili.
Dita Von Teese a Kyautar Salon Elle a 2006. Hoto: MJ Kim/Getty Images
Yadda Galaxy ke ɗaurewa mai amfani ne, amma kuma wani ɓangare ne na jin daɗin saka ta. Haƙiƙa abin mamaki ne. "An lulluɓe ta da masana'antar mesh mai ƙarfi," in ji Mouret, "kuma idan ka buɗe zip ɗinta a baya, ko kai ko tare da abokin tarayya, naman yana tsalle waje—abin hawa ne na ƙwarewar sha'awa, fashewar motsin rai."
Amma yayin da Mouret ya kwatanta zip ɗin da ya shafi "ƙarfi da zaɓi," wasu fitattun mata sun zaɓi saka ta ba tare da kayan aikin ba. Catherine, Gimbiya ta Wales, an yi mata ɗaya ba tare da shi ba domin, idan aka fuskanci 'yan jarida, ya kasance wuri mai rauni. Haka kuma shugabar mata a kan katunan Claire Underwood na House of Cards. Robin Wright, 'yar wasan da ta taka ta, ta gaya wa Mouret cewa dole ne a cire zip ɗinsa na zinariya na musamman. A cikin littafin, ta bayyana: "Ina son shi a matsayin mace, amma a matsayin mace mai mulki, shugabar mata… dole ne wannan ɓangaren nawa ya kasance marar ganuwa."
Abin mamaki, wasu daga cikin kuzarin rigar Galaxy ta Mouret yanzu suna bayyana a kan dandamali a Amurkar Trump. Ba a ƙara yin Galaxy sabuwa, amma irin waɗannan riguna masu kama da jiki daga alamar Mouret har yanzu suna isa ga mata kamar Ivanka, Melania da Lara Trump. Kuma wannan siffar mannewa da jiki, wadda da yawa a cikin gwamnatin Trump suka fi so, ta kasance mai tsanani koyaushe—yanzu tana nuna kyawun Trump da salon siyasa, tare da matsanancin gashin ido, madaidaicin gashi da alluran.
Shin Mouret ya san dalilin da ya sa aka karɓi kamannin? "Kaya shine kawai nuni na zamantakewar siyasar lokacinsa," in ji shi. Abin da "[matan Maga] ke sakawa yanzu ya wuce gona da iri. Tufafin suna matsewa sosai, kuma shedu suna da tsayi sosai, har ba za ka iya gudu daga wani abu don kare kanka ba. Gaba shine tsoro, kuma kamannin yana lalacewa."
Baya ya kasance wuri mafi kyau, a cewar tarihin rayuwar, wanda ke rubuta kyakkyawan fata da kuma rugujewar dama a cikin kaya ga masu ƙira masu zaman kansu. Amma littafin yana nuna ƙarshen kaya kamar yadda Mouret ya sani kuma ya rayu da shi—bai bayyana shi a yau ba. Ba ya jagorancin alamar sa: bayan Covid ya bugi ɓangaren sa na tufafin yamma da tufafin taron da ƙarfi, alamar ta shiga cikin gudanarwa a 2021 sannan ta canza hannu. Mouret yanzu yana kwatanta kansa a matsayin ɗan fasaha na queer, kuma yawancin hotunansa har yanzu suna komawa ga kasancewarsa ɗan mahauci na karkara wanda yake son bincika jikuna ba tare da la'akari da jinsi ba.
Har yanzu ana yin tufafi da sunan Mouret a ɗinka a ciki, amma ba nasa ba ne. Ba zai yiwu a sake kama walƙiya a cikin kwalba ba. Kamar yadda ya ce a cikin littafin: "Galaxy ta tabbatar mini cewa sa hannuna ba sunana ba ne, amma dabarata ce."
A 2015, shekaru 10 bayan rigar ta fara bayyana, abokan ciniki za su iya siyan sabuwa akan £1,750. Yanzu za ka iya samun ɗaya a shafukan sake siyarwa akan fiye da £200 kaɗan. Lokacinta ya wuce, amma kuma ta shiga tarihin kaya, tare da tafiyar Mouret. Tarihin rayuwa ne. Kamar yadda ya rubuta a cikin littafin: "Riga ce da aka haifa daga tunanina na gama gari; ita ce mahaifiyata tana yin sutura da safe, ita ce daidaiton mahaifina da nama, kitse da ƙashi." Ta kasance sakamakon manyan abubuwan da suka ƙarfafa shi, Azzedine Alaïa da Yohji Yamamoto, waɗanda aka tace ta cikin ruhinsa. "Yin ta," in ji shi, "ya kasance kamar lokacin da ka sami kanka kana magana da wani harshe ba tare da tunani ba."
An buga I Am Roland Mouret – The Butcher's Boy who Dressed the World a ranar 22 ga Oktoba ta Quercus (£25). Don tallafa wa Guardian, sayi kwafi a guardianbookshop.com. Ana iya amfani da kuɗin isarwa.
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi Na so in Ƙirƙiri Sigar Mata ta Kwat ɗin Maza Ta Yadda Rigar Galaxy ta Roland Mouret Ta Mamaye Duniya
1 Menene rigar Galaxy
Riga mai mannewa da jiki da Roland Mouret ya ƙera wadda aka ƙaddamar a 2005 Ta shahara saboda tsarinta mai ƙarfi da dacewa wanda ke ƙawata jiki kamar yadda kwat zai yi
2 Wanene Roland Mouret
Mai zanen kaya ɗan Faransa da ke zaune a London wanda aka sani da sassakakkun riguna na gine-gine waɗanda ke ɗaukaka siffar mace
3 Me ya sa ake kiranta sigar mata ta kwat ɗin maza
Mouret ya ce yana so ya ba mata irin tsarin ƙarfi da iko da kuma amincewar da kwat ɗin maza da aka ɗinka ke ba maza—amma tare da lanƙwasa
4 Me ya sa rigar Galaxy ta musamman
Ƙwarƙwararta ta ciki da masana'anta mai kauri da daidaitaccen ɗinki suna riƙe da sassaka jiki don ya yi kama da marar aibi ba tare da buƙatar kayan siffa ba
5 Yaushe aka ƙaddamar da ita
Ta fara bayyana a cikin tarin Mouret na Bazara/Agusta 2006 da aka nuna a 2005
6 Me ya sa ta shahara sosai
Tana ƙawata kusan kowane nau'in jiki an saka ta da manyan shahararru kuma ta zo daidai lokacin da kafofin watsa labarai na kaya na kan layi ke bunƙasa
7 Menene ƙwarƙwarar ciki
Tsarin tallafi da aka gina a ciki da aka ɗinka a cikin rigar wanda ke sassaka kwanciya da ƙirji kamar kwat ɗin jaket ɗin da aka ɗinka
8 Wadanne masana'antu ake amfani da su
Galibi masana'antar ulu mai kauri mai miƙewa da viscose waɗanda ke riƙe da siffarsu kuma suna santsin silhouette
9 Wanene ya saka rigar Galaxy
Jerin shahararru masu tsawo ciki har da Victoria Beckham Scarlett Johansson Cameron Diaz Dita Von Teese da Elle Macpherson
10 Me ya sa ta mamaye duniya
An kwafe ta sosai an sayar da ita har sau da yawa kuma ta zama alamar rigar iko shahararru sun saka ta mujallu sun nuna ta kuma manyan shagunan kasuwa sun yi gaggawar yin sigar da za a iya biya
11 Menene rigar iko
Riga da ke nuna amincewa da iko sau da yawa ta hanyar tsari da ɗinki—takwararta ta mata ga kwat ɗin iko
12 Ta yaya rigar Galaxy ta bambanta da talakawan rigar mannewa da jiki
Rigar mannewa da jiki tana mannewa da jiki
