A matsayin ɗalibar PhD a Oxford da ke nazarin halayen jima'i, Judy Wearing ta sami wani tunani kwatsam: menene manufar gashin al'aura? Menene amfanin gashin hammata? Menene aikin kowane ɗan gashi a jikinmu? Lokacin da wallafe-wallafen da aka buga suka kasa samar da amsoshi masu gamsarwa, Wearing ta fara nata binciken. Manufarta ita ce ta ba da haske kan dalilin da ya sa muka sami waɗannan gashin musamman, tare da gashin al'aura mafi rikitarwa duka: shin don dumi ne, kariya … ko wani abu dabam? Wearing har yanzu tana kokawa da waɗannan tambayoyin, kusan shekaru 30 bayan kwanakin karatunta. Yanzu marubuciya ce kuma edita (galibi a fannin ilimi), ta sake duba sha'awarta ga gashi a cikin Anxious and Hairy: The Evolution and Culture of Human Hair, tana bincika matsayinsa mai yawan yawa da rarrabuwa a cikin tarihinmu da tunaninmu. Har Wearing ma ta yi mamakin wuraren da bincikenta kan gashi ya kai ta, da kuma asirai da har yanzu ba a warware su ba. "Yawancin waɗannan tambayoyin, babu wanda ya taɓa duba su," in ji ta a kan Zoom. Ga ɗan guntun abubuwan ban sha'awa da ta gano game da gashi. Duba hoto a cikakken allo Judy Wearing ta yi mamakin inda bincikenta kan gashi ya kai ta. Hoto: Mike Wing 1. Gashi ya samo asali ne daga manyan ƙadangare masu gashi Gashi, ko Jawo, ya samo asali kusan shekaru miliyan 245 da suka wuce tare da cynodonts, kakannin dabbobi masu jini mai ɗumi na duk dabbobi masu shayarwa, ciki har da mutane. Suna da Jawo don rufi, don hana zafi tserewa daga jikinsu. Shaidar burbushin Cynognathus mai kama da kerkeci ta nuna cewa yana da gashin baki: gashi mai matuƙar jin daɗi, mai taɓawa wanda ke ba da muhimman bayanai na azanci. 2. Mai gashi ko mai sikeli, mu abu ɗaya ne Wataƙila ka ji labarin furotin keratin, wanda ke da muhimmanci ga gashin ɗan adam, fata da farce. Hakanan shi ne tushen faratan kuliyoyi, gashin tsuntsaye, ulun tumaki da sauransu da yawa. Ci gaban gashi gyare-gyare ne na juyin halitta na tsohon tsarin haɓakar fata wanda dabbobi masu rarrafe ke girma sikeli, in ji Wearing, tana haɗa ɗigo da kakanninmu masu rarrafe. "Kuna iya tunanin gashi a matsayin dogon, siririn sikeli, a wata hanya. Dukansu an yi su da keratin." 3. Girman kai na kan ku tarin matattun ƙwayoyin sel Kwayoyin da ake kira keratinocytes ana samar da su daga tushe na tushen gashi, suna tura tsofaffin ƙwayoyin sel sama a cikin bututun follicle. Yayin da suke taruwa, matattun ƙwayoyin keratin suna haɗuwa zuwa sanduna, suna karya fata kuma suna bayyana a matsayin gashi. Kowane follicle na gashi yana aiki kamar "ƙaramin gabo", in ji Wearing, tare da nasa jadawalin lokaci na girma da hutu. 4. Ba kawai 'nono ko kwalba' ba Ƙarfin samar da madara wata siffa ce ta dabbobi masu shayarwa, kamar Jawo. Su biyun suna da alaƙa ta kud da kud fiye da yadda kuke tsammani: glandan mammary sun samo asali ne a matsayin daidaitawa na wasu glandan follicle na gashi. A Ostiraliya, echidna da platypus (duka monotremes) suna nuna hanyar juyin halitta, kafin ta rabu. Ko da yake suna yin ƙwai, suna kuma shayar da 'ya'yansu ta hanyar facin Jawo na musamman da ke fitar da madara a cikinsu. Duba hoto a cikakken allo Muna da follicle daidai da chimpanzees. Hoto: Alamy 5. Mu ba ƴan biri ne marasa tsiraici ba … Ko da yake muna iya zama kamar ba mu da Jawo sosai fiye da dangi na mu na primates, Homo sapiens suna da adadin follicle iri ɗaya, ana samun su a ko'ina, a haƙiƙa, sai tafin hannu da tafin ƙafa. "Muna da follicle na gashi daidai da chimpanzees: miliyan biyu zuwa huɗu daga cikinsu," in ji Wearing. Bambanci shi ne yawancin gashin ɗan adam siriri ne sosai kuma mai laushi. 6. … kuma a ƙarshe faci-faci Waɗannan gashin "vellus" da suka ragu da ke rufe jiki sun bambanta da gashin "terminal": ƙarin kauri, tauri da launi mai yawa da ke girma a cikin abin da Wearing ta kira "wurare masu mahimmanci" a jikin ɗan adam, kamar gira, hammata da makwancin. Taurarin waɗannan facin na musamman ne ga jinsinmu, amma "akwai aikin hankali" da ke ƙarfafa kowannensu, in ji Wearing. 7. Idanu suna da shi Gira sun samo asali ne don kare idanunmu da sadar da bayanan zamantakewa. "Yaushe ne lokacin ƙarshe da kuka tuna kun nuna gira"Ba mu gane muna yin hakan ba, amma muna karanta waɗannan sigina koyaushe," in ji ta. Akwai kuma dogon tarihin inganta su ta hanyar ayyukan kyau. Siffanta gira su zama siriri, kamar yadda sau da yawa ya kasance salon mata, ana "fassara shi a matsayin mai biyayya da abokantaka," in ji Wearing. A tsohuwar China, akwai al'adar shekaru 1,000 na cire duk gashin don fentin sabon siffa gaba ɗaya, cikin daidaito mai wahala da kuma launuka marasa ɗabi'a sau da yawa. Duba hoto a cikakken allo. Ana nazarin Botox a matsayin yiwuwar magani ga baƙin ciki. Hoto: Posed by model; Dimensions/Getty Images. 8. Botox yana hana tausayi. A yau, ɗaya daga cikin salon gira shi ne hana su motsi, ta amfani da Botox don hana wrinkles. Amma kamar yadda Wearing ta nuna, wannan yana da tasiri kai tsaye ga sadarwarmu kuma. Masana ilimin halayyar ɗan adam sun gano cewa shahararren aikin gyaran jiki yana lalata ikonmu na kwaikwayon motsin zuciyar wasu, wanda ke hana tausayi. Yana jin kamar dystopian, amma "ana iya samun sakamako mai kyau," in ji Wearing. Ana nazarin Botox a matsayin yiwuwar magani ga baƙin ciki, ta hanyar katse hanyar mayar da martani da muke fuskanta da bayyana motsin zuciyarmu. 9. Warin jiki watsa shiri ne. "Warin hammata da warin jiki suna da girma a cikin sadarwarmu ta zamantakewa," in ji Wearing. Gashin hammatanmu sun fi waɗanda ke wurare dabam tauri, yana sa su "fito waje" kuma su watsa takamaiman haɗin sinadaranmu. Bincike ya nuna za mu iya jin warin bambance-bambancen kwayoyin halittar juna, har ma da yanayin motsin rai da lafiya. Wannan musayar galibi tana faruwa ƙasa da wayewar mu, in ji Wearing. "Yawancinmu ba ma tunanin, 'Kana jin ƙamshin damuwa' – amma muna iya tunanin, 'Kana kama da tsoro.'" 10. Me game da gemu? Ko da yake maza da mata suna da matsakaicin adadin follicle iri ɗaya a fuskokinsu, yawancin maza manya suna girma gashin terminal maimakon gashin peach na mata. Yawanci ana ƙaddara shi ta bambance-bambancen kwayoyin halitta da hormonal, tare da gashin gemu da gashin baki da testosterone da dihydrotestosterone ke sarrafa su. Yana yiwuwa gashin fuska ya samo asali ne a matsayin hanyar gasa da abokan hamayyar jima'i da sadar da rinjaye. Akwai ma shawara cewa gemu – kauri, ƙarfi, gashi mai mai – yana ba da ɗan kariya ga muƙamuƙi idan an yi musayar naushi. Duba hoto a cikakken allo. Rashin gashi na iya zama tushen damuwa ga maza. Hoto: Posed by model; agrobacter/Getty Images. 11. Yin sanƙo ba shi da kyau sosai. Rashin gashi yawanci tushen damuwa ne ga maza, yana da alaƙa da yawan damuwa, baƙin ciki har ma da kashe kai. Duk da haka ƙwarewa ce ta halitta har ma da yaduwa, tare da fiye da 70% na mazan Caucasian suna fuskantar siriri a saman (50% zuwa shekaru 40). "Akwai wannan ra'ayi cewa cuta ce, amma babu wani abu mara kyau da shi; ya zama ruwan dare sosai kuma ya samo asali don wani dalili." Ana iya ɗaukar yin sanƙo a matsayin bayanin namiji, tare da rashin gashi da dihydrotestosterone ke sarrafawa, hormone ɗaya da ke sarrafa girma na al'aurar namiji. "Testosterone ne da naushi," in ji Wearing, "kuma kusan namiji kamar yadda ya samu." 12. Gashi alama ce ta lafiya. A cikin al'adu da yawa daban-daban, dogon gashi a maza a tarihi yana da alaƙa da ƙarfi – ka yi tunanin Samson daga Littafi Mai Tsarki. Wannan ba kawai apocryphal ba ne: gashi yana da alaƙa mai ƙarfi da shekaru da lafiya, tsakanin mutanen da ke da kwayoyin halittar girma dogon gashi. Yana girma tsayi da sauri ta lokacin samartaka da farkon girma, sannan yana raguwa daga kusan shekaru 25 da kusan 0.4cm a shekara. Lafiyar gashi na iya nuna ƙarancin abinci mai gina jiki, tare da rashin furotin, baƙin ƙarfe da bitamin D da B suna haifar da ƙarin gashi mara haske da karye. Alaƙar da ke tsakanin dogon gashi mai sheki da lafiya mai kyau na iya zama dalilin da ya sa wasu mata sukan girma gashi da sauri kuma su rasa shi a hankali (yana haifar da dogon gashi gabaɗaya) fiye da maza: yana nuna abokin aure mai lafiya. A yau, ba shakka, za mu iya yin karya tasirin kuma mu sami gashi mai santsi, mai sheki da kayayyaki. 13. Gashi ba kawai yana nuna lafiya mai kyau ba; yana kuma aiki kadan kamar filastar jiki. Kwayoyin stem a gindin kowane follicle suna tallafawa farfadowar fata da gyara. "Suna kamar ƙananan kayan gaggawa, a duk jikinmu," in ji Wearing.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Salon gashi ya samo asali tun zamanin Bronze ga mata. Hoto: Sergii Kolesnikov/Getty Images
14. Salon yana da dogon tarihi …
Shaidar salon gashi a mata ta samo asali tun zamanin Bronze. "Idan ka kalli ƴan siffofi na farko da hotunan ɗan adam, za ka ga salon gashi, kwarya-kwarya, buɗaɗɗen gashi," in ji Wearing. "Tsohon Masarawa sun kasance mahaukaci ne game da wigs, curls, dyes, extensions." A cikin tarihi, waɗannan sun shiga da fita daga salo, kuma sun tashi lokacin da salon kasuwanci ya zama babban kasuwanci daga ƙarshen karni na 17. Manyan "poufs" da manyan azuzuwan Paris suka fi so a zamanin Marie Antoinette, wani lokaci suna kaiwa tsayin 40cm sama da fatar kai, sannan aka bi da gajerun salo masu yadudduka da aka sani da Titus cuts.
15. … kuma ba ga masu arziki kawai ba
Ragowar karni na 14 KZ da aka tono daga makabarta a Masar sun nuna shaidar kayan ado a cikin mutanen aji mai aiki. Wata mata tana da extensions 70 a launuka daban-daban; wata tsohuwa ta yi rina gashinta da henna ba da daɗewa ba kafin mutuwarta. Ramses II, wanda ya yi mulki karni ɗaya bayan haka, shi ma ya rufe gashin kansa. "Kamar yau, kowa yana yin shi," in ji Wearing.
16. Wasu maza sun fi son masu gashi mai haske
Blond shine mafi shaharar launin rina gashi ga mata koyaushe, duk da ƙoƙari da kuɗin da ake kashewa wajen kula da shi. Wannan yana magana ne game da sha'awarsa a wasu wurare: "Yana da wata alaƙa mai zurfi da jima'i, mata da samartaka," in ji Wearing. A tsohuwar Girka da Roma, "gashin blond wani ɓangare ne na kayan aikin karuwa", a wani mataki doka ta buƙaci su bambanta ma'aikatan jima'i da mata masu daraja – har sai manyan azuzuwan su ma sun fara sha'awar gashi mai haske. Kamar salo, inuwa suna tafiya cikin salo. A cikin karni na 18 a Ingila, an ɗauki gashin blond a matsayin mara daɗi kuma mafi kyau a gyara shi da baƙin rina.
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Blond shine mafi shaharar launin rina gashi ga mata koyaushe. Hoto: Posed by model; Group4 Studio/Getty Images
17. Gashi mai haske na iya barin ƙarin haske ya shiga
Mutanen farko suna da gashi mai duhu; har yanzu shi ne mafi yaduwa a duniya. Amma inuwa masu haske sun samo asali sau da yawa. Jerin DNA na Neanderthals ya sami shaidar gashin ja da fata mai haske a Turai, da wani maye gurbi dabam daga wanda aka samu a cikin mutanen zamani. Ɗaya daga cikin ka'idar ita ce gashi mai haske – wanda ke ɗauke da ƙarancin melanin mai hana UV – ya samo asali a Turai don ba da damar ƙarin hasken rana ya isa fatar kai, yana tallafawa samar da bitamin D a yankunan da ƙarancin ya zama mai yiwuwa, amma wannan na iya zama ba ya bayyana duk blonds na halitta. Kusan 10% na mutanen asalin Melanesian masu duhun fata, da wasu Aboriginal Australians, suna da gashin blond a lokacin yara saboda wani maye gurbi na musamman.
18. Gashi na iya bayyanawa, da kuma zalunci
Gashin kanmu hanya ce mai ƙarfi ta bayyana kai, da kuma zalunci da sarrafawa. Akwai dogon tarihin cire gashi tilas a matsayin hanyar cire asalin al'adu ko lalata ɗan adam, kamar a sansanonin taro na Nazi da makarantun zama na yara Indigenous a Arewacin Amirka. Tsohon Maya sun aske ko sun fizge gashin abokan gābansu kafin su yanke kawunansu. A cikin tarihi, da kuma a cikin al'adu, an tilasta wa bayi da masu laifi aske kawunansu don nuna matsayinsu na ƙasa. A gefe guda, tsakanin maza musamman, aske kwanyar hanya ce ta nuna tsarki da sadaukarwa ga Allah, tare da sufaye Buddhist da Jain su ne sanannun misalai. Yana nuna mahimmancin gashi ga kasancewa cikin ƙungiya, in ji Wearing, tare da cire shi alama ce ta "cirewa daga al'umma".
19. 'Hollywood wax' ba LA ba ne sosai
Ko a cire gashin al'aura ko a'a ana ci gaba da muhawara, tare da yanayin zamani (aƙalla ga mata) na cirewa gabaɗaya sau da yawa ana danganta shi da al'adunmu na batsa, duk da haka, Wearing ta ce cire gashin al'aura ya kasance yana shiga da fita daga salo. "Muna iya ganin wannan gaba da baya a cikin tarihin Yamma da kuma a cikin al'adu."
To menene manufar gashin al'aura? Daga cikin duk tambayoyin da suka ci gaba game da gashi, wannan ya kasance ɗaya daga cikin mafi girma, aƙalla ga Wearing. Duka maza da mata suna girma gashi a kewayen al'aurarsu daga balaga, wanda ke rikitar da binciken bayanin juyin halitta: "Kuna buƙatar bayani da zai yi aiki ga duka jinsi," in ji Wearing. Wannan facin gashi kuma na musamman ne ga mutane. Ka'idar da Wearing ta fi so, "kusan ta hanyar kawarwa," ita ce gashin al'aura ya samo asali ne don kama wari daga jima'i, yana nuna ayyukan abokin aure na yanzu ko mai yiwuwa. Wearing ta kwatanta shi a matsayin "mai gano yaudara … Haƙiƙa ita ce kawai ra'ayin da ya dace da hankali har yanzu—ko da yake kuma, ba a tabbatar da shi ba."
Ko da yake tambayoyi da yawa sun rage, ainihin abin shine gashi ya fi yadda muke tsammani ban sha'awa. Anxious and Hairy: The Evolution and Culture of Human Hair na Judy Wearing an buga shi a ranar 8 Oktoba (Icon Books, £20). Don tallafawa Guardian, yi oda kwafin ku a guardianbookshop.com. Ana iya amfani da kuɗin bayarwa.
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
FAQs Abubuwa 20 Masu Ban Sha'awa Game da Gashi
1 Me ya sa mutane ke cewa sanƙo namiji ne
Saboda bincike ya nuna mata sukan ɗauki maza masu sanƙo a matsayin masu rinjaye, tabbaci da balagagge. Sanƙo yana da alaƙa da ƙarin testosterone don haka yana nuna ƙarfin hormones na namiji
2 Shin yin sanƙo da gaske yana nufin ina da ƙarin testosterone
Ba daidai ba. Maza masu sanƙo sukan fi jin tasirin wani samfurin testosterone da ake kira DHT wanda ke rage follicle na gashi. Don haka magana ce kan jin tasiri ba kawai matakan hormone ba
3 Menene DHT
Dihydrotestosterone hormone ne da aka yi daga testosterone. Shi ne babban mai haifar da sanƙon maza
4 Za a iya hana sanƙo
Wani lokaci. Magunguna kamar minoxidil da finasteride na iya rage ko juyar da asarar gashi wani ɓangare musamman idan an fara da wuri. Da zarar follicle ya mutu ba zai sake girma ba sai an yi dashe
5 Menene ke haifar da sanƙon maza
Kwayoyin halitta da hormones. Kuna gado halin kuma DHT a hankali yana rage follicle na gashi a fatar kai
6 Shin sanƙo ana gado ne daga mahaifin mahaifiyarka
Wani ɓangare. Babban kwayar sanƙo tana kan X chromosome wanda maza ke samu daga iyayensu mata amma wasu kwayoyin halitta da yawa ma suna da hannu daga iyaye biyu
7 Me ya sa wasu maza ke riƙe gashinsu har tsufa
Ba su gaji nau'ikan kwayoyin halittar da ke sa follicle su ji tasirin DHT ba. Galibi sa'a ce ta zanen kwayoyin halitta
8 Ta yaya gashin al'aura yake zama mai gano yaudara
Gashin al'aura yana kama maniyyi da sauran ruwaye na kwanaki bayan jima'i. A ka'ida abokin aure zai iya gano shaidar ayyukan kwanan nan ko da yake a aikace wanka da sauran abubuwa suna sa shi rashin tabbas
9 Shin gashin al'aura da gaske mai gano yaudara ne
A kimiyance a'a. Ra'ayi ne na al'adun zamani. Ana iya wanke ruwaye kuma akwai wasu bayanai da yawa don haka ba ya tabbatar da komai da kansa
10 Me ya sa muke da gashin al'aura kwata-kwata
Wataƙila yana aiki ne don kama pheromones, rage juzu'i yayin jima'i da kariya daga bacteria da haushi
11 Shin gashin al'aura yana da amfani a yau
Ee. Har yanzu yana rage juzu'i, yana kwantar da fata mai jin daɗi kuma yana taimakawa daidaita dumi da danshi a yankin al'aura
12 Yaya sauri gashi yake girma
Gashin kan
