A karfe 5 na safe a Tekun Arkösund, yana da haske kamar tsakar rana. Na fita daga gidan masauki na Arkösunds Hotell, wanda aka buɗe a shekara ta 1895, yayin da wani karamin jirgin ruwa ke tafiya cikin Tekun Baltic, rana tana haskaka ruwansa mai natsuwa. Wani katako na katako yana gayyatar ni zuwa jerin kananan tsibirai, yayin da geese ke tashi sama a tsarin V kuma uwar swan tana jagorantar 'ya'yanta masu laushi zuwa wani lungu a karkashin gada.
Ina gabar tekun gabashin Sweden don bincika tsibiran Östergötland, wani yanki na kusan tsibirai 9,000 da ke warwatse a cikin Tekun Baltic, 'yan sa'o'i kudu da Stockholm. Ya fi shiru kuma ba shi da cunkoso fiye da sanannun tsibiran da ke kusa da Stockholm ko Gothenburg, yana rufe sassa da yawa na bakin teku da kananan tsibirai: Arkösund, Sankt Anna, Gryt, da Tjust. Manyan tsibiran suna cike da gidajen bazara na katako na gargajiya kuma suna gida ga hatimi, tsuntsayen teku, da dazuzzuka masu kauri na alder, cedar, oak, da pine.
Na isa cikin hanyar da ta dace a hankali. Tafiyata zuwa Arkösund—tuki na minti 45 daga tashar Norrköping tare da hanyar da mazauna yankin ke kira Ƙarshen Duniya—ta fara sa'o'i 24 da suka gabata, tare da tafiyar Eurostar da safe daga London zuwa Brussels, sannan zuwa Hamburg ta Cologne, inda na hau jirgin SJ EuroNight zuwa Norrköping. Na yi barci yayin da muka ketare iyakar Denmark da sanyin safiya kuma muka haye gadar Öresund zuwa Sweden. Gari ya waye a cikin ruwan hoda, raƙuman ruwa masu duhu yayin da muke rumbling daga Malmö zuwa Östergötland.
Duba hoto a cikin cikakken allo: Östergötland wani yanki ne na kananan tsibirai, tashoshin kamun kifi, da kananan kauyuka. Hoton: Berndt-Joel Gunnarsson/Alamy
Masu ziyara suna bincika tsibiran yankin ta jirgin ruwa, karamin jirgin ruwa, ko kayak, suna ciyar da dogon kwanakin bazara suna iyo, kamun kifi, da tafiya. Daga tashar Arkösund, na tashi kan ruwa tare da Åsa, jagora na gida, a cikin wani jirgin ruwa mallakin Kauko Lindstedt, ɗan Finn da ya rayu a tsibirin Aspöja tsawon shekaru 40, nisan mil hudu. Akwai wata doka da ba a faɗi ba, in ji Åsa: idan ka ga kayak ko jirgin ruwa a tsaye, ka ci gaba. A cikin ruhin Sweden na allemansrätten—'yancin ƙasa na yawo da kwana a cikin yanayi—akwai isassun tsibirai ga kowa.
"Akwai wata doka da ba a faɗi ba cewa idan ka ga kayak ko jirgin ruwa a tsaye, ka ci gaba. Akwai isassun tsibirai ga kowa."
Aspöja yana ɗaya daga cikin ƴan tsibiran da ake zaune, kuma Lindstedt, kamar yawancin mazauna tsibirin da na hadu da su, mai aiki ne: yana gini, farauta, shan kifi, gudanar da balaguron jirgin ruwa, kuma yana sha'awar raba gidansa, inda mutane 25 kawai ke zaune duk shekara. Mun sauka a tasharsa kuma muka yi tafiya a kan filayen ciyawa masu cike da duwatsu na granite da cike da malam buɗe ido. Babu motoci, kodayake tashar tana da keken hannu na gama gari don kayan abinci da wasiƙu. Mun hadu da Helen, wacce ke kiwon tumaki da shanu, tana saƙa, tana fata tumaki, tana kiwon ƙudan zuma, tana noman kayan lambu, kuma tana gudanar da gidan cin abinci tilo, Forsmans på Aspöja, tare da 'yarta. Abincin rana shine kifi mai kyafaffen da dankalin da aka dafa tare da dill mai yawa, tare da gilashin ruwan teku na Baltic, wanda aka tace ta ƙaramin injin tsarkake ruwa na tsibirin.
Duba hoto a cikin cikakken allo: Tsibirin Aspöja, gida ga mazauna 25 kawai a duk shekara.
A kan hanyar dawowa zuwa ƙasa, mun wuce wani tsibiri da aka cika da tarun kifi, buoys, da akwatunan katako. Wasu mazaje masu kaurin fuska suna daga hannu—'yan'uwa a cikin shekarun 70s, ƙarshen ragowar masana'antar kamun kifi da ta taɓa bunƙasa, in ji Åsa. Su ne ƙarshen masu kamun kifi biyu da aka ba su izinin kama eels bisa doka; lasisin ana iya ba da shi ta hanyar iyali kawai, kuma ba tare da wanda zai gada ba, yana ƙarewa da su.
Washegari, ni da Åsa muka ci gaba da tuki tare da bakin teku zuwa tsibiran Sankt Anna, muka tsaya don cin abincin rana a Mauritzberg Castle, wani gidan sarauta mai shekaru 400 da aka sake gina shi cikin kyawun rococo mai laushi bayan da Rashawa suka ƙone shi a shekara ta 1719. A bakin teku na Sankt Anna, na hadu da wani ɗan yawon buɗe ido na Jamus yana shirya kayak ɗinsa don tafiya na kwanaki 10 shi kaɗai. Ya gaya mani yana tuƙi na kwanaki daga tsibiri zuwa tsibiri ba tare da ganin mutum ɗaya ba kuma yana son shi—wannan shine ziyararsa ta uku a nan.
Tsalle-tsalle tsibiri a Sweden: wani yanki mai sihiri na kananan tsibirai. Tafiya ta bas kawai daga Gothenburg.
Daga bakin teku, na hau cikin kayak kusa da Andreas, jagorana. Shi wani ɗan Finn ne wanda ke aiki ga mai ba da kayan aiki Kajakparadiset. Tare, muka yi tuƙi cikin yanayin ruwa mai natsuwa. Mun tsaya don fika—kofi mai zafi da wani abu mai daɗi—a kan wani karamin tsibiri, muna shimfiɗa a kan granite mai zafi da rana yayin da wani gaggafa na teku ke tashi a sama.
Na hadu da wani ɗan yawon buɗe ido na Jamus yana shirya kayak ɗinsa don tafiya na kwanaki goma shi kaɗai. Ya gaya mani yana tuƙi daga tsibiri zuwa tsibiri na kwanaki ba tare da ganin kowa ba, kuma yana son shi.
A wannan dare, na kwana a Skärgårdsbyn Mon, wani otal a bakin teku na ƙasa. Na ci abincin dare a baranda na katako na gidan cin abinci na Boathouse—kifi mai man shanu da dankali—ina kallon tashar jiragen ruwa, tare da tsibiran da ke baya. Ina mamaki, da ɗan kishi, wanne ɗan yawon buɗe ido na Jamus ya zaɓa ya kwana a kansa a ƙarƙashin sararin sama mai haske.
Na farka da ruwan sama. Amma tare da yanayin zafi kusan 23°C a matsakaici, bazara a nan tana da daɗi. Ina tuki kudu da Åsa, na koyi cewa kusan 70% na ƙasar gandun daji ne, kuma an ratsa shi da hanyoyin tafiya da keke.
A Fyrudden, wani karamin kauye a ƙarshen kudu maso gabas na wani ƙunƙuntaccen yanki a cikin tsibiran Gryt, kyaftin na jirgin ruwa Magnus Lindkvist yana jira a cikin jirgin ruwan katako na kakansa. Ya kai mu mil takwas na ruwa mai buɗe ido zuwa tsibirin Harstena. A nan ne kakanninsa suka taɓa zama, inda ya yi kowane bazara a matsayin yaro, kuma inda har yanzu yake zuwa yau tare da iyalinsa.
Wani gungu na gidaje na ƙarni na 18 har yanzu yana nan. Tsohon gidan makaranta yanzu gidan kayan tarihi ne, yana ba da labarin waɗannan tsibiran daji, inda kifi, kamun eel, ƙwai na tsuntsayen teku, da kitsen hatimi suka taɓa taimaka wa mazauna tsibirin su rayu. Ƙididdigar yawan jama'a daga 1641 ta lissafa gidaje biyu, kuma bishiyar iyali tana bin sunayen gida zuwa waɗannan iyalai biyu—ciki har da Magnus, kuma yanzu ɗansa.
Komawa ƙasa, mun tafi arewa da cikin ƙasa don kwana a Söderköping. A shekara ta 1281, matar Sarki Magnus Ladulås, Helvig, an nada ta a cocin tsakiyar zamanai. Wannan ƙaramin gari yana cike da tarihi, yana zaune a ƙarshen gabas na Göta Canal. Swedes sun fara gina shi a shekara ta 1810 don guje wa harajin Danish, suna haɗa Gothenburg zuwa Tekun Baltic. Washegari da safe, na yi keke tare da canal, na tsaya don ice cream a gidan cin abinci na Smultronstället da cakulan da aka yi da hannu a Jolla.
Da yamma, na dawo Norrköping, birni mai masana'antu wanda ya taɓa bunƙasa akan masana'antar yadi da takarda da ruwa ke sarrafawa. Yau, masana'antar an mayar da su wani yanki mai kyau tare da mashaya, gidaje, da ofisoshi. Tituna suna cike da rai da dare yayin da ɗalibai ke murnar ƙarshen kwas kuma mazauna yankin ke shirye-shiryen karshen mako na bukukuwan ƙasa.
Washegari, yayin da na koma Burtaniya ta jirgin ƙasa, ina kallon filaye da dazuzzuka suna buɗewa daga taga. Tashar Norrköping ta ɓace a bayana, kuma hasken bazara yana tacewa ta cikin bishiyoyi, yana haskaka gidajen gonaki na katako ja. Garken geese suna tashi a sama a siffar V. Ina tunanin ɗan yawon buɗe ido na kayak yana neman tsibirinsa mafi kyau don yin sansani a daren yau, da Magnus yana koya wa ɗansa kamun kifi daga jirgin ruwan kakansa—daidaitaccen ma'auni na yanayi da baƙi yana ci gaba cikin jituwa.
Wannan tafiya ta samu ne daga Visit Sweden. Marubucin ya yi tafiya ta jirgin ƙasa daga London zuwa Brussels a kan Eurostar (daga £39 hanya ɗaya), sannan zuwa Cologne (daga £16.50 hanya ɗaya), sannan zuwa Hamburg (daga £16.50 hanya ɗaya). Jirgin SJ EuroNight daga Hamburg zuwa Norrköping yana farawa daga £40 hanya ɗaya. Elite Grand Hotel Norrköping yana da ninki biyu daga £80 B&B; Söderköpings Brunn daga £93 B&B; Skärgårdsbyn Mon daga £100; da Arkösunds Hotell daga £170 B&B.
Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa game da ciyar da lokacin bazara a hankali a kan tsibiran zaman lafiya na Östergötland
Tambayoyi na Matakin Farko
1 A ina ne ainihin tsibiran Östergötland suke
Suna cikin Tekun Baltic a gabar tekun gabashin Sweden kudu da Stockholm Babban tsibiran ya hada da tsibirai kamar Arkösund, Sankt Anna, da Gryt
2 Menene ma'anar bazara a hankali a can
Yana nufin shakatawa, ba gaggawa ba Ana ciyar da kwanaki ana iyo, kayak, karatu a kan tashar jirgin ruwa, tsinar berries, da jin daɗin dogon maraice masu haske ba tare da cikakken jadawali ba
3 Ina buƙatar mota don zagayawa
Mota tana taimakawa amma kana iya ɗaukar jirgin ruwa ko hayar kayak Yawancin tsibirai ba su da motoci, don haka kana tafiya ko keke Keke yana da kyau sosai
4 Menene hanya mafi kyau don isa can daga Stockholm
Tuki kudu na kimanin sa'o'i 2 ko ɗaukar jirgin ƙasa zuwa Norrköping ko Linköping sannan bas ko taksi zuwa tashoshin jirgin ruwa
5 Yana da tsada
Yana iya zama, musamman ga masauki da cin abinci a waje Amma kana iya ajiye kuɗi ta yin sansani, dafa abincinka, da amfani da jiragen ruwa na jama'a
Tambayoyi na Matakin Farko
6 Mutane suna magana da Ingilishi
Ee kusan kowa yana magana da Ingilishi sosai musamman matasa da masu yawon buɗe ido
7 Yaya yanayin zafi yake a bazara
Mai laushi da daɗi yawanci 18-25°C Yana iya yin ruwan sama don haka shirya kayan sawa Rana tana faɗuwa da latti kuma tana fitowa da wuri
8 Zan iya yin iyo a cikin teku
Ee Ruwan yana da tsabta kuma sau da yawa yana da dumi mai ban mamaki a cikin ƙananan bays Nemo rairayin bakin teku masu duwatsu ko dandamalin wanka na katako
9 Ina buƙatar yin ajiyar jiragen ruwa a gaba
Ga ƙananan jiragen ruwa na fasinja a'a Ga jiragen ruwa na mota zuwa manyan tsibirai yana da kyau a yi ajiyar wuri a lokacin makonnin da suka fi yawa
10 Me ya kamata in shirya
Kayan iyo, jakar hana iska, takalman tafiya masu ƙarfi, littafi, maganin kwari, da kwalban ruwa mai sake amfani
Tambayoyi na Matakin Ci Gaba
11 Ta yaya zan sami wurare mafi keɓantattu da shiru
Tafi tsakiyar mako Talata zuwa Alhamis
