A wannan makon, na yi ƙoƙarin yin booking na ƙarshe don knotless braids. Na san cewa zan rubuta game da yadda jin daɗin samun box braids ke ƙara zama mai rikitarwa, kuma na ɗauka zai yi kyau in sami wasu hotuna na tsarin. Sai na sami kaina cikin takaici yayin da batun wannan wasiƙar ya fara faruwa a wani mataki na meta.
Lokacin da na yanke shawarar yin gashin kaina don wannan labarin, na san cewa booking ɗin braiding na gobe zai zama mafarki mai ban tsoro. Salon ɗina na yau da kullun yana neman ka yi booking kusan wata ɗaya gaba. Zaɓi na biyu ya ce muna buƙatar "ɗaki na sirri" don kawo mai ɗaukar hoto, wanda zai ƙara farashin zuwa £600. Yayin da nake ƙoƙarin rubuta rahoto mai zurfi game da ƙalubalen samun braids, ba zato ba tsammani na gane cewa ina rayuwa a cikin wannan rahoton.
Babu wani salon da ya damu da aikin jarida na. Ba sa buƙatar talla ko kuma suna da lokaci don haka. Kamar yadda wani salon ya gaya mini: "Muna da buƙatu mai yawa na braids, shi ya sa yake da wuya a sami sassauci."
Rashin wadata yana haifar da tashin hankali. Mutanen da ke son braids sukan yi korafi game da yadda stylists ke da iko don ci gaba da ƙara farashi. A New York, mutane na iya biya kusan $450 (£339) don knotless braids, wani salo mai tsada wanda ya zama al'ada a can cikin shekaru biyar da suka gabata. A London, zan biya tsakanin £150 da £250 don salo ɗaya. Ba haka yake a da ba.
**Tafiya ta Tsari Mai Rikitarwa**
Tare da braiding, kana biya kowane ɗan aiki—waist-length yana da £20 fiye da bra-length, ƙananan braids suna da kusan £40 fiye da matsakaici, da sauransu. Idan gashin ka bai riga an miƙa shi ba, ƙara wani £20. Kana son a wanke gashin ka a bushe shi? Wannan ƙarin £20-35 ne. Don boho ko goddess braids, wani sabon salo mai ƙananan zaren da ke fitowa daga plaits ɗinka, wannan na iya zama, alal misali, £50 fiye. Idan ka yi amfani da gashin roba, zai yi matsi a cikin wata ɗaya zuwa biyu da kake sanye da salon, don haka yana da kyau a yi amfani da gashin mutum. Amma waɗannan na iya yin tsada har £250. Kowanne daga cikin waɗannan yanke shawara yana cika ni da ɗan tsoro.
Lokacin da Nesrine Malik, marubuciyar jagorar The Long Wave, ta gaya mini cewa Dutch braids ɗin da ta yi a Nairobi sun yi daidai da £2, kuma cewa cikakken kai na knotless yana da £20 kawai, na ɗan yi zafi da ƙaiƙayi.
A bayyane yake, London tana da tattalin arzikinta. Amma ba zan iya fita daga wannan tsari mai tsada mai ɗauke da hankali ba. Yin gashin ka ba zaɓi ba ne—ɗaya daga cikin mata biyar Baƙin Amurka masu shekaru 25-34 an tura su gida daga aiki saboda gashin kansu. Don ƙara muni, canza ƙa'idodin kyau ya zama al'ada (idan ba a buƙata ba) waɗannan salon boho, knotless, da butt-length, waɗanda ke ɗaukar aƙalla sa'o'i biyar don shigar da su.
"Braiding ya kasance game da sauƙi da ƙarancin kulawa," Nesrine ta gaya mini. "An tallata shi a matsayin 'salon kariya,' yana jin kamar wani abu da zai 'yanta ka daga zagayowar wankewa, bushewa, murɗawa, ko miƙewa mara iyaka. Yanzu ya zama nasa rikici mai wahala." Kuma ko da an gama su, matsin lamba bai tsaya ba. "Yawancinmu ana gaya mana cewa muna yin kuskure: ba mu wanke su sosai ba, muna riƙe su da tsayi, ana yin su da ƙarfi ko nauyi."
Anna Gifty Opoku-Agyeman, masanin tattalin arziki, ɗalibar PhD a Harvard, kuma marubuciyar The Double Tax: How Women of Color Are Overcharged and Underpaid, ta yarda. "Wannan batu ne da ba a yi nazari sosai ba," ta gaya mini. "Amma mun san cewa farashin kyau ya tashi a tsawon lokaci. Wannan ya faru ne saboda hauhawar farashi, amma kuma saboda ƙa'idodin kyau da ke ƙaruwa."
**An Zalunce da Ƙarfi Irin Ɗaya**
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Ama Hair Salon a South Tottenham. Hoton: Christian Sinibaldi/The Guardian
Duk da haka, Opoku-Agyeman ta yi imani cewa yana da ɗan gajeren hangen nesa don mayar da hankali kawai ga abin da abokin ciniki ya fuskanta. "Ana sa ran stylists na gashin Baƙi su san yadda ake yin gashin kowa, kuma ana hukunta ka idan ba ka iya ba," ta ce. "Don haka kana iya siyan ƙarin kayayyaki don kula da duk nau'ikan gashi daban-daban da ke shigowa."
Opoku-Agyeman, wadda 'yar Ghana-Amurka ce, ta ce kana buƙatar yin la'akari da hauhawar haya a wurare kamar Amurka, da kuma cewa jigilar gashin roba daga China ba ta da arha kamar da. "Lokacin da aka kawo haraji, na gaya wa mutane cewa wannan zai shafi mata Baƙi sosai."
Sauran kayayyaki na musamman, kamar conditioners da gels da kasuwancin Baƙi ke yi, na iya zama masu tsada saboda suna fama da rashin samun jari, wanda ke haifar da ƙarancin wadata. Opoku-Agyeman ta yi imani cewa farashin da abokan ciniki ke korafi akai bai sa braiders su sami riba mai yawa ba. Har yanzu ina jin rashin tabbas game da ƙarin caji: Na ji labarun abokan ciniki da ake caji fiye da sababbi, ko don dogon gashi ko kauri. Opoku-Agyeman ta gyara mini a hankali game da waɗannan takaicin. "Akwai waɗannan lokuta masu wuya da za su caji ka don kawai raba gashin ka, ko?" ta ce. "Ina ganin wannan abin ban dariya ne, amma ban san yadda yake da yawa ba."
ƙetare tallan wasiƙar
Wasiƙar kyauta | Mako-mako
Yi rajista ga The Long Wave
Nesrine Malik, Micha Frazer-Carroll da ƙungiyar suna jagorantar ka ta manyan labaran Baƙi daga duniya
Duba sabon
Shigar da imel ɗinka
Yi rajista
bayan tallan wasiƙar
Kuma ba na son rage darajar aikin mata Baƙi—ba kawai don ƙwarewa ta musamman ba, amma don fasaha. Wataƙila a matsayin masu siye, muna juya fushinmu ga mutanen da su ma aka zalunta da ƙarfi iri ɗaya. "Mutanen da suka mallaki hanyoyin samar da braiding ba su ne suka saba amfani da sabis na braiding ba," Opoku-Agyeman ta ce. Yawancin kayayyakin braiding ba daga kasuwancin Baƙi suke zuwa ba.
"A zamanin da, mutane suna yin braiding a waje ko a gidajensu, amma yanzu suna ƙoƙarin gina kasuwanci." Suna kuma kula da ka na tsawon sa'o'i biyar zuwa takwas yayin da kake kan kujera, sau da yawa ba tare da hutun abincin rana ba. Braiders suna buƙatar horo, wanda zai iya zama tsada. Aiki ne mai wahala.
**Biyan Kudin Al'umma**
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
'Mutane suna shirye su biya $500 don yin gashin kansu, domin idan ban yi ba, ba zan sami aikin ba,' in ji Opoku-Agyeman. Hoton: Christian Sinibaldi/The Guardian
Abin da Opoku-Agyeman, Nesrine, da ni muka yarda a kai shi ne cewa mata Baƙi suna jin matsin lamba mai ƙarfi don zama "masu kyau," wanda ke zuwa daga ciki da wajen al'ummomin Baƙi. "Akwai ainihin kudin al'umma, da kuma kudin gaske, na rashin yin gashin ka," Opoku-Agyeman ta gaya mini. "Mutane suna shirye su biya $500 don yin gashin kansu, domin idan ban yi ba, ba zan sami aikin ba… ana iya dakatar da ka. Ana iya kore ka." Wataƙila lokacin da muka yi fushi game da ƙarin caji, da gaske muna jin fushi game da rayuwar biyan farashi na alfarma don wani abu da yake kamar muhimmi.
Wannan bai shafi braids kaɗai ba. Kana iya faɗi haka don tsarin "wanke ka tafi," motsi na "miƙe na halitta," locs, relaxers, fades, da sauran salon gashin Baƙi waɗanda suka fuskanci irin wannan iko da kasuwanci. Ko wane salo ka zaɓa, ƙuntatawa suna da ƙarfi kuma suna ƙara ƙarfi—tare da matakai, kayayyaki, da ayyuka marasa adadi da ake ɗauka "muhimmi" don kiyaye ka da kyau da ƙwararru.
Wariyar gashi da ke cikin wannan matsin lamba abu ne da za mu iya magance shi a makarantunmu da wuraren aikinmu. Amma kuma alama ce ɗaya daga cikin dogon tarihi mai rikitarwa inda gashin mata Baƙi ya kasance duka nau'in bayyana ra'ayi da kuma makasudin zalunci. Ga yawancinmu, zuwa salon na iya jin duka waɗannan abubuwa a lokaci ɗaya. To me za mu iya yi? Yayin da nake sha'awar French curl braids ɗina, waɗanda aka gama da cornrows masu laushi, duk abin da zan iya tunani shi ne inda zan juya fushina game da waɗannan farashin masu tashi. Bayan sa'o'i shida a kan kujera, ba a kai ga braiders ɗina ba. Masana'antar kyau da ke cin riba daga damuwar zamantakewa da tattalin arzikinmu? Wannan labari ne daban. Don samun cikakken sigar The Long Wave a cikin akwatin wasiƙar ka kowane Laraba, yi rajista a nan.
**Shiga**
Kana iya ci gaba da matsin lamba da farashin braids? Raba abin da ka fuskanta ta hanyar aiko mana da imel a thelongwave@theguardian.com, kuma za mu iya haɗa martaninka a fitowarmu ta gaba.
**Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa**
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa game da dalilin da ya sa braiding ya zama mai tsada da wuya a kula da shi, an rubuta su cikin yanayi na halitta tare da amsoshi kai tsaye.
**Tambayoyi na Matakin Farko**
1. Me ya sa braiding ya kasance mai arha sosai a da?
Shekaru da suka gabata, stylists sukan yi aiki daga gida ko ƙananan shaguna masu ƙarancin haya. Kudin gashi ma ya yi ƙasa sosai. Yanzu, haya na salon, lasisi, da hauhawar farashi sun ƙara farashi.
2. Menene ya canza da ya sa braiding ya yi tsada sosai yanzu?
Babban abubuwa: hauhawar haya don wuraren salon, ƙaruwar buƙatu na salon na musamman, da hauhawar farashin ingantattun kayan gashi. Stylists kuma suna caji fiye don lokacinsu da ƙwarewarsu.
3. Shin gaskiya ne cewa braiding ya kasance mai sauƙin kula da shi a da?
E, a wani ɓangare saboda salon sun kasance masu sauƙi. Classic box braids ko cornrows tare da ƙarshen asali ba su da laushi. Salon na yau da kullun sun fi ƙamari kuma suna buƙatar kulawa mai laushi.
4. Me ya sa stylists ke caji da sa'a yanzu maimakon farashi mai tsayayye?
Braids masu sauƙi suna ɗaukar sa'o'i 2-4. Yanzu, salon da suka shahara kamar ƙananan knotless braids ko jumbo twists na iya ɗaukar sa'o'i 6-10. Farashin sa'a yana tabbatar da cewa stylist ya sami biyan da ya dace na lokaci, ko da salon yana da sauƙi.
5. Akwai zaɓuɓɓukan braiding masu araha da suka rage?
E, duba:
- Sababbin stylists
- Salon masu sauƙi
- DIY ko musanya da abokai
**Tambayoyi na Matsakaici**
6. Me ya sa knotless braids suka fi tsada fiye da box braids na gargajiya?
Knotless braids suna ɗaukar lokaci mai tsawo kuma suna amfani da gashi mai yawa. Suna kuma buƙatar ƙwarewa don guje wa ƙulli, don haka stylists suna caji fiye don wannan fasaha.
7. Me ya sa braids ke yin frizz da sauri yanzu fiye da da?
Kayan gashi na zamani galibi suna da sauƙi kuma ba a rufe su sosai. Ba su da kakin zuma mai nauyi ko mai da ake amfani da shi a tsofaffin kayan gashi, wanda ya sa su kasance masu laushi na tsawon lokaci.
