Lennox. Manchester: 'A boot camp of flavours' – restaurant review Lennox. Manchester: 'Wani sansanin horo na dandano' – bita na gidan abinci

Lennox. Manchester: 'A boot camp of flavours' – restaurant review Lennox. Manchester: 'Wani sansanin horo na dandano' – bita na gidan abinci

Ga Niko Simeone shi ne mai dafa abinci dan asalin Scotland da Italiya wanda ke bayan kamfanin gidan cin abinci na Six by Nico, kuma sabon aikinsa shine Lennox, wanda yake a Spring Gardens, Manchester. Idan ba ka saba da Six by Nico ba, kamar mafarki ne na cin abinci mai kyau. Simeone ya fito da jigogi kamar "The Chippie," "Italian Road Trip," da "Ancient Rome," kuma ya yi hidimar abinci shida da aka yi wahayi daga kowannensu. Tokyo! Mad Hatters! Childhood! A wani lokaci, daular Six tana yaduwa kamar knotweed, kuma zuwa 2025, akwai gidajen cin abinci 17. Kuna da damar cin abinci a Six by Nico fiye da neman likitan hakori na NHS.

Bari mu ce, mutane da yawa suna son ra'ayin—suna yin watsi da girkin da ba shi da kyau—saboda yana da araha, kuma tsarin abinci shida yana sa dare tare da abokai ya zama na musamman, ba kamar Pizza Express ba. Simeone ya ce Lennox zai bambanta sosai: à la carte, mai mayar da hankali kan nama mai bushewa, amma har yanzu yana da nishadi da ƙirƙira. Za a sami yatsan kifi tare da katsu curry da celeriac remoulade; tempura oyster shell mai cike da busasshen naman sa tartare da oyster emulsion; da gnocchi tare da fikafikan kaza marasa kashi da parmesan. Lennox zai zama na sirri, na musamman, kuma ba za a iya fadada shi ba. Babu shirye-shiryen fadada shi, babu yadda za a yi. Amma zuwa Agusta 2026, za a sami uku daga cikinsu. Jira, menene? E, jim kadan bayan Manchester sai Glasgow, sannan Edinburgh. Simeone yana barci da ido daya a bude; Ina sha'awar rashin gajiyarsa.

Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Gnocchi na Lennox tare da fikafikan kaza 'da gaske, abin ban sha'awa ne. Shin yana aiki?' Mun isa lokacin abincin rana kuma muka duba menu, wanda ke da rudani amma yana da takamaiman lokuta na ban sha'awa mai dadi: mussels, sourdough, 'nduja, pickled fennel; pork cheek, gochujang, cheese on toast; sole kiev, caesar salad, burnt lemon. Kuma ga kayan zaki, hazelnut tiramisu tare da dulce de leche, da pavlova tare da extra-virgin olive oil. Akwai bude kicin, barbecue na Japan, da kuma firji masu bushewa da yawa na nama da kifi, saboda masu dafa abinci suna da tabbacin cewa abokan ciniki suna son ganin nama yana rubewa da idanunsu, kamar wani abin fasaha na Sam Taylor-Johnson.

Na farko daga kicin, wanda wata ma'aikaciya mai kyau ta kawo, shine busasshen naman sa tartare tare da oyster emulsion—wani ɗan guntun naman sa mai kauri mai kama da kifi, wanda aka yi masa ado kamar oyster a cikin tempura batter shell. Masu son tartare za su ƙi shi; masu son oyster za su ƙi shi ma fiye. Amma Six by Nico, da kuma yanzu Lennox, ba su taɓa kasancewa game da tsauraran dokoki ba.

Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Yatsan kifi tare da katsu curry shine 'haske mai haske' a menu a gidan cin abinci na Lennox a Manchester.

A gaskiya, yayin da nake dadewa a Lennox, yana da wuya a gane inda gidan cin abinci ɗaya ya ƙare kuma ɗayan ya fara. Halloumi shawarma tare da baba ganoush da rosemary flatbread, alal misali, ba shi da daɗi sosai: bushe, ba shi da kayan yaji, ba abinci mai kyau ba kuma ba sabon abu ba. Amma sai gnocchi tare da fikafikan kaza yana da gaske, abin ban sha'awa. Cire kashi daga fikafikan kaza yana sa su ƙanana, amma gnocchi, a gefe guda, yana da girma da gangan, don haka muna ƙarewa da wani kwano mai ban mamaki na ƙullun launin ruwan sama da aka ɗora da farantin parmesan. Shin yana aiki? Yana da daɗi amma ba shi da kyau. Duk da haka, lokacin abincin rana ne na Juma'a kuma Lennox yana cike da rayuwa, cike da ma'aurata, ƙungiyoyin abokai, da mutanen da suka fara daren Juma'a da wuri.

A gare ni, haske mai haske a menu shine yatsan kifi tare da katsu curry. Ra'ayi mai ban sha'awa: yi tunanin wani babban McDonald's Filet-O-Fish da aka tsoma a cikin waɗannan ƙananan tukwane na curry sauce. Wani tsohon ribeye yana da kyau sosai, kodayake jan giya sauce dinsa ya ɗan yi bakin ciki da ɗaci.

Duba hoto a cikakken allo
'Wani ɗan guntun naman sa mai kauri' na busasshen naman sa tartare tare da parmesan game chips a Lennox Manchester.

Farantin salmon gravlax a cikin buttermilk, dill, da grapefruit yana da kyau sosai amma ba shi da ban sha'awa. Lennox yana jin kamar ana cika ku da ra'ayoyi daga kowane bangare; za ku tafi da ciki, da ƙalubale, kuma da ɗan buguwa daga gogewar. Mun gama da lemon tart, wanda ba a bayyana dalilinsa ba tare da red wine sorbet da Rosemary. Dandano uku masu ƙarfi suna cikin yaƙi don rinjaye. Zuciyata tana kuka don ɗan Chantilly cream, a matsayin mafaka daga wannan sansanin horo na dandano.

Lokacin da aka buɗe shi, an kwatanta Lennox a matsayin aiki na sirri sosai, amma babu alamar Simeone lokacin da na ziyarta, kuma ba zato ba tsammani, babu wasu masu dafa abinci da aka ambata da ke da hannu a cikin aikin. Ikon sa na gani da hangen nesa guda ɗaya ba wai kawai yana gudanar da wuraren Six by Nico da yawa ba, har ma da sabon alfijir mai siffar Lennox. Baƙi zai zama mafi ban sha'awa ba tare da shi ba, amma lokaci na gaba, zan je don hazelnut tiramisu.

Lennox Manchester, 60 Spring Gardens, Manchester M2 2BQ, 0161 832 1815; lennoxrestaurant.co.uk. Bude daga Talata zuwa Lahadi, tsakar rana zuwa tsakar dare (karfe 1 na safe Juma'a da Asabar, karfe 9 na dare Lahadi). Kusan £70 ga kowane mutum à la carte don abinci uku (set menus daga £35), da abin sha da sabis.

Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa bisa ga bitar gidan cin abinci na Lennox a Manchester mai taken Sansanin horo na dandano

Tambayoyi na Gabaɗaya da Ra'ayi

1 Menene Lennox?
Wani gidan cin abinci na zamani a Manchester wanda ke hidimar abinci na Biritaniya mai ƙarfi, mai tsanani, da gwaji. Bitar ta kwatanta shi a matsayin sansanin horo na dandano saboda jita-jita suna cike da dandano mai ƙarfi, wani lokaci mai wahala.

2 Wanene mai dafa abinci a bayan Lennox?
Bitar ba ta ambaci sunan mai dafa abinci kai tsaye ba, amma tana mai da hankali kan falsafar kicin na tura iyakoki tare da haɗin dandano.

3 Wane irin abinci ne Lennox ke hidima?
Abinci na Biritaniya na zamani tare da mai da hankali kan dandano mai ƙarfi da yadudduka. Yi tunanin ƙananan faranti da menus na ɗanɗano waɗanda ke amfani da sinadarai marasa yau da kullun da dabaru don ƙirƙirar jita-jita masu ƙarfi.

4 Shin Lennox gidan cin abinci ne na tasting-menu kawai?
Bitar tana nuna cewa ya dogara sosai kan tsarin tasting-menu, amma yana da kyau a duba menu na yanzu akan layi don zaɓin à la carte.

Sansanin horo na dandano - Menene Hakan ke Nufi

5 Menene sansanin horo na dandano yake nufi?
Yana nufin cewa abinci ba shi da hankali. Kowane jita-jita yana ba da gogewar ɗanɗano mai ƙarfi mai ƙarfi - kamar motsa jiki na dandano. Ba za ku sami jita-jita masu laushi ko masu sauƙi a nan ba.

6 Shin abinci yana da yaji?
Ba lallai ba ne mai zafi amma mai ƙarfi. Bitar ta ambaci jita-jita waɗanda ke da gishiri, tsami, umami, ko ɗaci duka a lokaci guda. Yana game da ƙarfin dandano ba kawai zafi ba.

7 Zan so shi idan na fi son abinci mai sauƙi?
Wataƙila ba. Idan kai mutum ne mai son dandano masu laushi da sanannun, Lennox na iya zama mai nauyi. Yana ga masu cin abinci masu son gwaji.

Shawarwari na Aiki - Tambayoyi na Yau da Kullun

8 Nawa ne farashin abinci a Lennox?
Bitar ba ta ba da ainihin farashi ba, amma menus na ɗanɗano masu tsada a Manchester yawanci suna daga £60-100 ga kowane mutum. Yi tsammanin biya don gogewa mai daraja.

9 Ina buƙatar yin ajiya a gaba?
E. Ga gidan cin abinci mai irin wannan suna, ana ba da shawarar yin ajiya makonni da yawa a gaba, musamman ga ƙarshen mako.

10 Shin Lennox yana da kyau ga kwanan wata ko taron musamman?
E idan kai da kwanan wata kuna masu son abinci masu ban sha'awa. Dandano mai ƙarfi na iya zama abin farin ciki ga waɗanda ke son gwaji.