Tsakaitar kwarin kankara na farko, na tashi daga hanya don tsayawa kan wani yanki na dusar ƙanƙara. Gizo-gizo ya gudu ya haye kan lu'ulu'u masu daskarewa. Bayan 'yan yadi kaɗan, gefen dutsen ya fashe da launi: ƙananan furannin Alpine masu rai tare da ƙudan zuma da crickets, kewaye da kololuwa masu haƙora. Wasu barewa biyu suna kallo daga wani dutse, sannan suka yi ta hayaniya sama da wata fuska ta tsaye. Na daina tafiya na yi sanyi da sauri, don haka na saka jaket. Na tuna wa kaina cewa ina Spain, a lokacin zafi na Turai.
Lokacin da na kalli namun daji, ƙungiyar tafiyata ta zama ƙanana a kan hanya mai karkata zuwa bangon dutse. Wannan shi ne tsaunin Picos de Europa a arewacin Spain—gungun kololuwa masu tsayi sama da mita 2,500, shahararru saboda gangar jikinsu masu tsayi. Na bi su, na kama su yayin da suke haye wani tudu don ganin wani abin mamaki: wani harbin bindiga daga wani jirgin ruwan yaki na Yaƙin Duniya na Biyu, wanda yanzu ya zama bukkar mafaka a dutse. (Cabin Verónica an yanke shi daga USS Pulau a shekarar 1961 a wani wurin sharar Bilbao kuma aka ja shi zuwa nan da alfadari.)
Mai kula da shi, Jorge, ya ɗauki aikin shekaru takwas da suka wuce kuma tun daga lokacin ya mai da shi gidansa na bazara, yana ƙara hasken rana da tankunan ruwa a cikin kubba mai haske. "Ina son shi," ya ce da murmushi, yana yin kofi a cikin ƙaramin kicin. "Me yasa zan buƙaci birane da taron jama'a alhali ina da wannan?" Abubuwan gani suna da ban mamaki. A ƙasa, ƙasan kwari, wani ungulu mai gemu yana shawagi—ɗaya daga cikin ƙananan adadin da aka sake shigar da su cikin nasara a shekarar 2005. Bukkar tana kwana mafi yawan mutane shida, ta yi ƙanƙanta ga ƙungiyarmu, amma tana shahara ga masu hawan dutse da masu tafiya kaɗai.
Wannan tafiya tana cike da sabani da abubuwan mamaki. Da farko, a kan jirgin ruwa na Portsmouth zuwa Bilbao, ni kaɗai nake a kan bene da ƙarfe 5 na safe, kewaye da hazo mai kauri da sanyi. Ban ma iya ganin raƙuman ruwa a ƙarƙashin dogo ba. Mun yi kamar ba mu motsi, muna ɓacewa a cikin iyakar sararin samaniya. Yayin da na kalli ƙasa, hazo ya ɗan tashi, kuma dolphins uku suka fashe daga ruwa, suna tunatar da ni cewa ina duniya, ba jirgin sararin samaniya ba. Wannan hanyar jirgin ruwa, da kuma hanyar 'yar uwarta zuwa Santander, ta ratsa wani kogi mai zurfin mita 4,000 a cikin teku, kuma ana yawan ganin whale. Masanin jirgin, André, ya gaya mini ya ga orcas da nau'ikan whale da yawa, gami da nau'in Cuvier's beaked whale mai wuya.
Tsaunukan Picos, yammacin Bilbao, an san su da abubuwan da ba a zata ba. A tarihin Spain, sun kasance cibiyar juriya ga mulkin Romawa kuma daga baya Moors. Suna da furanni da malam buɗe ido da ba a samu a wani wuri ba; barewa wani nau'i ne na musamman, kuma akwai beraye da kyarkeci ma. A ƙarƙashin kololuwa masu tsayi akwai wani abin mamaki: hanyar sadarwa ta koguna a ƙarƙashin ƙasa da manyan kogwanni kusan mil mil zurfin.
Tafiyarmu ta haye tsaunin ta fara daga arewa, muna tafiya zuwa bukkar dutse Vegarredonda a mita 1,410. Akwai kaɗan daga cikin waɗannan bukkoki a warwatse a cikin Picos, yawancinsu ba su da wutar lantarki kuma ana kawo su da alfadari. Yi tsammanin tattaunawa mai kyau, abinci mai yawa, da katifa mai rufe da filastik a cikin abin da wasu za su kira "snoremitory." An cece ni da alherin Arten, ɗaya daga cikin ƙungiyarmu, wanda ya ba ni abubuwan toshe kunne na silica gel. Sun yi aiki da kyau, kuma da safe na farka na ga kowa ya riga ya tafi karin kumallo.
A cikin wani ɗan ƙaramin bita mai katangar dutse, wata tsohuwa tana zaune a kan wani stool na nono na rustic. A kan shelves akwai ƙafafun cuku.
Abinci babban ɓangare ne na kwarewar Picos. Wannan safiya muna tafiya zuwa wasu ƙananan gidajen dutse a gefen wani tafki, Ercina, kuma muka sami wata alama da hannu tana tallata cuku na gida. Bruno da Cristina, jagororinmu, sun yi farin ciki sosai. A cikin wani ɗan ƙaramin bita mai katangar dutse...Wata tsohuwa tana zaune a kan wani stool na nono na rustic, sanye da rigar gida na nailan, tana jiran abokan ciniki.
"Kakana ya gina wannan gida a shekarar 1944 lokacin da nake ɗan shekara uku," in ji Maria. "Kowa ya kasance yana zuwa nan don bazara, yana kawo dabbobinsu. Yanzu ni kaɗai nake."
Wuraren kiwo na tsaunukan Picos
A bangon akwai ƙahonin sha da faranti na katako na kakanninta; a kan shelves akwai ƙafafun cuku. Hanyar Picos ita ce haɗa madara daga tumaki, shanu, da awaki. Sakamakon yana da daɗi. "Na ji tsoron wannan al'ada ta mutu," in ji Maria. "Amma ɗana yana sha'awar, don haka akwai bege za ta ci gaba."
Mun bar Maria, har yanzu muna cin cuku, kuma muka juya zuwa wani kwari na gefe, muna hawa a hankali ta kan duwatsu masu ɗauke da ƙananan lambuna na saxifrage da stonecrop a cikin ramukansu. Wani wallcreeper ya tashi, ɗaya daga cikin tsuntsaye masu wuya da ke zaune a nan. Barewa suna tsaye a kan tudu masu nisa, ba su da nisa daga wuraren dusar ƙanƙara. Amma duniyarsu tana raguwa yayin da zafin Spain ke hawa sama da sama. (Na yi farin ciki da na yi tafiya da jirgin ruwa; a matsayin mai tafiya da ƙafa, na samar da ƙasa da 10% na CO2 da zan samar da jirgin sama, bisa ga lissafin carbon na Direct Ferries.)
Mun kwana a Refugio Vega de Ario, bukka mai mafi kyawun girki, wanda kuma ke karɓar ƙungiyar caving na Jami'ar Oxford. Bayan fiye da shekaru 60 na bincike da kuma ƙarnuka da yawa na masana ilimin kogo suna yin taswirar wasu daga cikin manyan tsarin kogo a duniya, sun gaya mini suna kusa da haɗa manyan hanyoyin kogo biyu. Na yi alkawarin dawowa in gani—da zarar an shigar da matakala.
A ƙarƙashin kololuwa masu tsayi akwai wani abin mamaki: hanyar sadarwa ta koguna a ƙarƙashin ƙasa da manyan kogwanni kusan mil mil zurfin
Washegari, mun haye ɗaya daga cikin ƴan wurare a Picos inda za ku ga mota—ƙauyen Poncebos, wanda ke kan kyakkyawan tafiya na kwari tare da Rio Cares. Daga can, muka sake hawa ta cikin filayen furanni da gidajen gonaki da aka watsar zuwa cikin gajimare. Sa'an nan, tare da cikakken lokaci mai ban mamaki, hazo ya share don bayyana babban abin ban mamaki na waɗannan tsaunuka: Picu Urriellu, wani dutse mai tsayi mita 2,529, wanda a ƙarƙashinsa akwai ɗaya daga cikin manyan bukkokin dutse na Turai, Vega de Urriellu.
Wannan ɗaya ce daga cikin bukkoki mafi shahara, tana kwana mutane 96, tare da wasu da yawa suna yin sansani a kusa, amma tana da abokantaka da zamantakewa. Mun tsaya a waje tare da Bruno da Cristina yayin da suke nuna hanyoyin hawansu da suka fi so. A kusa da mu, ƙananan ƙungiyoyin masu hawa suna tattauna shirinsu. Fuskar kudu tana shahara ga ƙungiyoyi masu jagora; fuskar yamma ita ce ɗan ƙaton mita 750.
Picos suna cike da furanni masu launi
Ƙwayoyin kankara, tare da gizo-gizonsu da furanninsu, suna gaba, amma a nan zan zaɓi in zauna. Ba za ku kama ni a cikin kogo ba, amma ina sha'awar abin da Bruno ya kira kyawawan hanyoyin hawa. Yayin da rana ta faɗi, dutsen ya zama orange, yana ba Urriellu sunan Spanish, Naranjo de Bulnes—orange na Bulnes.
Magariba ta faɗi, kuma na tashi a kan hanyar dutse don ƙarin gani, amma na sami duniya a ƙarƙashin bukka gaba ɗaya tana cikin gajimare. Na zauna a kan wani dutse, kuma bayan ɗan lokaci, na gane ana kallona. Wata barewa ta tsaya a kan wani tudu a sama, ƙahonanta masu laushi suna silhouette a kan magariba kamar alamomin tambaya biyu. Na kalli hasken orange na ƙarshe yana ɓacewa a kan kololuwar Urriellu, sa'an nan na waiwaya kan tudu, amma barewa ta ɓace.
Tafiyar ta samar da KE Adventure Travel; tafiyar kwana takwas ta Picos tana farawa daga £1,295, gami da duk abinci, masauki, da jagorori. Brittany Ferries tana tafiya har sau biyu a mako daga Portsmouth zuwa Bilbao da Santander, kuma daga Plymouth zuwa Santander, daga £128 ga masu tafiya da ƙafa a watan Agusta.
**Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa**
Ga jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa game da tafiya ta Picos de Europa wanda ya shafi damuwa na farko da na ci gaba
**Tambayoyi na Gabaɗaya - Na Farko**
1. Menene ainihin al'adun rayuwa na dutse a Picos de Europa?
Yana nufin mutanen gida har yanzu suna rayuwa kuma suna aiki a nan, suna kiwon shanu, suna yin cuku, da kuma kula da tsoffin gidajen dutse da hanyoyi. Ba kawai kuna tafiya ta gidan kayan gargajiya ba, kuna tafiya ta gonaki da ƙauyuka masu aiki.
2. Shin ina buƙatar zama mai ƙarfin jiki sosai don tafiya a nan?
Ba lallai ba. Akwai hanyoyin tafiya masu sauƙi a kwari da hanyoyin ƙauye zuwa ƙauye don masu farawa. Duk da haka, hanyoyin tsaunuka masu tsayi na yau da kullun suna buƙatar ƙarfin jiki mai kyau da kuma juriya ga tsayi.
3. Yaushe ne mafi kyawun lokaci don tafiya?
Ƙarshen Yuni zuwa farkon Satumba shine mafi aminci don hanyoyi masu tsayi. Mayu da Oktoba na iya zama masu kyau don hanyoyi masu ƙasa, amma yi tsammanin dusar ƙanƙara da laka a tsayi. Hunturu don ƙwararrun masu hawan dutse ne kawai.
4. Shin yana da lafiya in tafi ni kaɗai?
Ee, a kan manyan hanyoyi da aka yiwa alama da kyau. Amma don kololuwa masu nisa ko tafiye-tafiye na kwanaki da yawa, ana ba da shawarar sosai a tafi da jagora ko ƙungiya. Yanayi yana canzawa da sauri kuma hazo na iya sa kewayawa ya zama da wahala.
5. Menene hanyar Cares Gorge?
Ita ce tafiyar rana mafi shahara, hanya mai tsawon kilomita 12 da aka sassaƙa a cikin wani dutse mai tsaye. Tana da lebur amma tana da kunkuntar tare da faɗuwa mai zurfi. Tana da ban mamaki amma tana iya cika da jama'a a lokacin bazara.
**Tambayoyi na Ci gaba - Aiki**
6. Zan iya zama a bukkokin dutse ko ina buƙatar tanti?
Kuna iya amfani da bukkoki masu ma'aikata a kan manyan hanyoyi, amma dole ne ku yi ajiya kafin lokaci a lokacin bazara. Yin sansani na daji yana da ƙuntatawa a cikin National Park, amma yin bivouac sama da layin bishiyoyi ana yawan haƙuri idan kun kasance masu hankali kuma ba ku bar wata alama ba.
7. Yaya zan magance warin cuku na Cabrales a ƙauyuka?
Ku rungume shi. Cuku yana da wari sosai saboda an tsufa shi a cikin kogwanni na dutse. Warin yana da ƙarfi amma ɗanɗanon yana da ban mamaki. Ku sayi yanki daga gona ta gida, ba shagon yawon buɗe ido ba.
8. Menene babban haɗari banda faɗuwa?
Canjin yanayi kwatsam. Safiya mai rana na iya zama
