Yana da misalin ƙarfe tara na yamma a Belleville mai ruwan sama, Paris. Ya yi latti sosai don shan giya, ya yi da wuri sosai don kwana, amma a kan tudu mai tsayi tsakanin gundumomi na 19 da na 20, lokacin shan maganin narkewa yana gabatowa. A cikin 'yan shekarun nan, yawancin mutanen Paris suna ƙara neman gilashin Chartreuse, wani giya mai tsananin kore ko rawaya mai ɗanɗanon ganye da ke da tarihin almara wanda ya shafi sufaye na Carthusian, kwalara, da wani girke-girke da ke cikin sirri.
Akwai nau'ikan da yawa, waɗanda suka bambanta da ƙarfi, launi, da farashi, amma babu wanda ke da sauƙin samu. A La Commune, wani wurin taruwa na hagu mai shahara a Belleville inda harbin tequila ke ƙasa da €4, sun ƙare da Chartreuse a daren jiya. A wasu ƙofofi kaɗan a Les Triplettes de Belleville, na hango kwalba mai cike da kashi ɗaya bisa uku na sigar rawaya mai arha a ɓoye tsakanin gins. Hugo Césard, ɗan shekara 19 mai shan giya, ya zuba mini harbi na €7—na uku na daren. Da farko ɗanɗano, yana kama da ouzo: mai daɗi, mai ɗanɗanon fennel, mai kauri sosai. Sannan ƙarin sautuna masu rikitarwa sun bayyana, kusa da wani fili na Alpine. Wannan yana da ƙarfin navy a 40% ABV, yayin da sigar kore take kusan 55%. A cikin Alps, an fi shan shi a cikin cakulan zafi. Shan shi a zafin ɗaki abin ƙyama ne, sai dai "kana so ka bugu sosai," in ji Césard. A gare ni, abin takaici, wannan jirgin ya riga ya tashi.
A kusa da kusurwa a Combat, wani mashaya mai ban sha'awa mai sanyi da mata ke gudanarwa kuma ɗalibai masu tunani da tsofaffi masu ado ke zuwa, galibi suna ba da shi a sanyi a cikin gilashin shan ruwa mai lu'ulu'u ko a cikin wani hadaddiyar giya mai suna The Last Word, wanda aka haɗa da gin, lemun tsami, da ceri na maraschino. Na gwada duka biyun. Mai shan giya na Combat Marie-Paule Corby, 30, tana son "ɗanɗanonsa mai rikitarwa," ko da yake a waje, wani abokin ciniki mai suna Nour (shima 30) ba ya son shi. "Na taɓa shan shi a cikin Alps kawai. Ya yi mini daɗi sosai," in ji ta, tana fitar da harshenta don ƙyama.
Za ka sami Chartreuse a yawancin mashaya masu cikakken kaya, amma sha'awar matasa masu shan giya ta ƙaru galibi bayan annobar, in ji Theo, wanda ke aiki a La Cave Pigalle, wani ƙaramin shagon giya mai kyau a Pigalle a gunduma ta 9. Hakanan ya faru a Amurka, inda ya zama wani sinadari "mai ɓoye" a lokacin farin ciki na motsin hadaddiyar giya a farkon shekarun 2000. Sannan kulle-kulle ya zo, kuma ɗanɗanon abubuwan ban mamaki, na saman shiryayye ya ƙara girma, musamman a nan.
A mashaya mai lambar yabo, mai cike da dabbobi da aka yi wa taxidermy, Satan's Whiskers a gabashin London, yana bayyana a cikin hadaddiyar giya daban-daban. The Pig on the Beach a gabar Jurassic na Dorset yana sayar da nau'ikan biyar daban-daban, ɗaya daga cikinsu—Eau de Vie daga 1941—yana kashe £50 kowace ma'auni. Ya kasance mai tsada koyaushe, ko da yake bala'i ya faru a 2021 lokacin da sufaye na Carthusian suka ba da sanarwar ba zato ba tsammani cewa za su iyakance samarwa don "kare rayuwarsu ta sufanci da ba da lokacinsu ga kaɗaici da addu'a." A cikin wata wasiƙa a 2021, sun ce: "Yin miliyoyin akwati ba shi da ma'ana a yanayin muhalli na yau kuma zai yi mummunan tasiri ga duniya cikin ɗan gajeren lokaci," ko da yake jita-jita na cewa dokar ta fito daga Vatican, wanda ya tunatar da sufaye "cewa su sufaye ne, ba 'yan kasuwa ba." A yau, a cewar mai magana da yawun Chartreuse, alamar tana mayar da hankalinta ga ilimin ganye.
A baya a Paris, a shagon kwalba da ake so La Cave de Belleville, Chartreuse ba shi da yawa. "Muna da rabo—kwalba 24 na kore da kwalba 24 na rawaya, amma na shekara guda," in ji Remy Pousse-Vaillant, 46, ƙwararren masani kan giya mai ilimi tare da tattoo Kandinsky. A halin yanzu akwai biyar a kan shiryayye, amma shi ke nan har sai oda ta gaba. A ƙarƙashin dokar mabukaci ta Faransa, duk wani abu da aka nunaIdan yana da farashi da ake iya gani, ana ɗaukarsa mai iya sayarwa, wanda wani ɓangare ya sa wasu rumbuna ke ɓoye kayan masu kyau a cikin gidan ƙasa. Alamar ba za ta raba lambobin ba, sai dai ta ce suna ajiye rabi kuma suna fitar da rabi zuwa Amurka, Japan, Australia, da "ƙasashen da ke kewaye da yankin Alpine." Suna yin abin da suke buƙata kawai don cika oda, ko da yake Pousse-Vaillant ya kiyasta bai wuce kwalba miliyan 1 a duniya ba. Kamar yawancin ma'aikatan shagon giya, ba zai tabbatar ko musanta cewa yana da Chartreuse a cikin gidan ƙasa ba.
Chartreuse ya shahara a wurare kamar Les Triplettes de Belleville a Paris. Hoto: Magali Deporte/The Guardian
Duk da haka, idan mun koyi wani abu daga tattalin arzikin Birkin, shi ne cewa kaɗan ne abubuwa ke ƙarfafa sha'awarmu kamar tsammanin ƙarancin abu. Shin wannan ne ya sa Chartreuse ya dawo kan taswira? "Ee, wani ɓangare," in ji shi. Abubuwan sha da ke shiga cikin menu na hadaddiyar giya – espresso martinis, negronis, cosmos – "sun kasance suna zuwa daga shirye-shiryen TV kamar Mad Men ko Sex and the City." Yanzu kamfen ɗin talla mai tsanani da masu tallata wayo suka tsara a hankali. Ka ɗauki Campari, wanda ya mayar da Aperol ya zama kyan gani na duniya, da Clemencello na M&S, wanda supermarket ɗin ya ce zai zama abin sha da ake buƙata sosai a wannan Kirsimeti, ko da yake yawancinmu ba mu taɓa jin labarinsa ba. Chartreuse yana da ƙarancin martaba. Na san shi ne kawai saboda Jay Gatsby ya ajiye shi a cikin ɓoyayyen akwatin giyansa – kuma daga littafin tarihin Bruce Springsteen, wanda a cikinsa ya bayyana cewa ya kamu da shi lokacin da ya fara shan giya. Tom Waits ma mai son shi ne.
Labarin Chartreuse ya fara da gaske a 1605, lokacin da aka ba sufaye na Carthusian – masana ganye, malamai, da ƙwararrun masu distilar giya – girke-girken daga Duke François Annibal d'Estrées. Rubutun hannunsa ya bayyana "elixir na tsawon rai" mai sinadari 130 da ya ƙunshi tsire-tsire, bawon itace, kayan yaji, da saiwoyi, kuma ya ɗauki sufaye fiye da ƙarni ɗaya don gane shi. A ƙarshe sun isa abin da suke kira "élixir végétal," tushen Chartreuse na yau. Sufaye sun ci gaba da haɓaka elixir yayin da suke ƙoƙarin ƙirƙirar giya mai sauƙin sha. Sigar farko, da aka ƙirƙira a 1838, fari ce, amma bambance-bambancen kore da rawaya sun biyo baya a 1840 – kore yana da ɗanɗanon ganye fiye da rawaya, rawaya kuma ya fi daɗi. Sigar kore "maganin lafiya" har ma an ba marasa lafiya kwalara – ko da yake a fili ba zai magance cutar ba, yana iya ba da ɗan sauƙi na ciwo.
Kwalba na Chartreuse rawaya da kore a cikin shagon kwalba La Cave de Belleville a Paris. Hoto: Magali Deporte/The Guardian
A yau, mutane uku ne kawai a duniya suka san girke-girken, kuma duk sufaye ne. Ana tsammanin cewa sufaye biyu na asali sun raba girke-girken da na uku ne kawai saboda ɗaya daga cikinsu yana tunanin yin ritaya. Wasu mutane biyar na duniya suna taimaka musu a masana'antar distila, waɗanda kuma ba a san su ba.
Labari ne mai kyau, kuma yayin da kafofin watsa labarun ke shiga cikin duk abin da muke ci ko sha, watakila lokaci ne kawai kafin ya isa Chartreuse. Lambobin daraja, launin "grellow" mai kyau ga hoto, asalin tatsuniya – da kuma ƙarancin kayan yanzu. Duk yana jin ya dace da waɗanda suka gaji da yanayin a 2026, in ji Pousse-Vaillant. "A wannan zamanin na AI, na Meta, da na kasancewa kan layi koyaushe, ina tsammanin mutane suna son wani abu na gaske, wani abu na ainihi, wani abu da ba ya canzawa." Kuma alamar ta yarda. "Kamar yadda sufaye suka ce: 'giciye yana tsayawa tsayin daka yayin da duniya ke juyawa,'" in ji mai magana da yawun Chartreuse. "Kyakkyawan taken ne saboda duniya tana da wahala a yanzu. To me kuma za mu iya yi?"
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi Chartreuse Elixir na Tsawon Rai
1 Menene ainihin Chartreuse
Giya ce ta ganye ta Faransa da sufaye na Carthusian suka yi tun 1737 Tana zuwa cikin manyan nau'i biyu Green Chartreuse da Yellow Chartreuse
2 Me ya sa ake kiransa elixir na tsawon rai
An ƙirƙiri girke-girken asali a matsayin maganin warkewa elixir na Tsawon Rai wanda aka yi imanin yana inganta lafiya da kuzari Sufaye har yanzu suna yin shi ta amfani da wannan sirrin girke-girken a yau
3 Menene a cikinsa
Kusan ganye 130 tsire-tsire furanni da saiwoyi Ainihin girke-girken sirri ne da ake kiyayewa sosai sufaye biyu ne kawai suka san shi a kowane lokaci
4 Yaya ɗanɗanonsa yake
Green Chartreuse yana da ƙarfi na ganye da yaji tare da ƙarfin giya mai ƙarfi Yellow ya fi daɗi santsi kuma ya fi fure Dukansu suna da ɗanɗanon anise da ganye na musamman
5 Me ya sa ba zato ba tsammani ya shahara haka
Haɗuwar abubuwa hadaddiyar giya da ke yaɗuwa a kafofin watsa labarun ƙarancinsa sirrin sufaye da ke tattare da shi da kuma sha'awa mai yawa ga abubuwan sha na ganye masu ɗaci da na tsohon salo
6 Shin da gaske Chartreuse yana da wuyar samu
Wani lokaci Sufaye suna iyakance samarwa da gangan don su mai da hankali ga rayuwarsu ta sufanci don haka wadata ba koyaushe take biyan buƙata ba musamman ga Green Chartreuse
7 Yaya zan sha shi a karo na farko
Gwada shi a sanyi sosai a matsayin harbi ko a cikin hadaddiyar giya kamar The Last Word ko Green Ghost Shan shi kai tsaye a zafin ɗaki na iya zama mai tsanani ga masu farawa
8 Menene bambanci tsakanin Green da Yellow
Green yana da ƙarin giya ƙarin ganye kuma ya fi tsanani Yellow ya fi daɗi ƙasa da ƙarfi kuma ya fi sauƙin sha Green ya fi kyau ga hadaddiyar giya mai ƙarfi Yellow yana aiki a cikin abubuwan sha masu sauƙi masu daɗi
9 Menene wasu shahararrun hadaddiyar giya na Chartreuse
The Last Word the Bijou da the Swampwater
10 Shin da gaske yana sa ka rayu tsawon rai
Babu wata shaida ta kimiyya da ke goyan bayan hakan Yana da
