I can’t say I find the German-style Christmas markets that have popped up in British cities over the years particularly festive, without sounding like a bit of a grump. As I walk the dog (who loves them) around the edges, I wonder what’s Christmassy—or German—about chocolate churros from Dubai or Korean fried chicken.
The markets in Hamburg, which I visited last weekend, are another matter entirely. For one, the city has lots of them, mostly quite small, and some with specific themes, like St. Pauli’s “erotic Christmas market.” They all share an impressive variety of food and drink, though I’ll skip over the phallic gingerbread in favour of the amazing selection of glühwein—white, rosé, cherry-infused, blueberry—which was much more appealing.
I’m familiar with glühwein as a concept—mulled wine with an umlaut—but from now on, I’ll insist everyone call Henry Dimbleby’s white version Weißer Glühwein in tribute. (If you’d rather not make your own, Joanne Gould recommends Waitrose’s mulled rosé.) I also tried eierlikör, which is basically eggnog; if you, like me, enjoy getting tipsy on custard, it’s worth making yourself. My recipe can feel more German by using brandy and white rum instead of whisky and swapping nutmeg for vanilla extract. (You probably don’t need instructions for boozy hot chocolate, but here’s Tony Naylor’s guidance anyway.)
The food in Hamburg quickly became as familiar as the drinks. There were bratwurst grilled over open flames, often smothered in Germany’s beloved curry sauce, and sides of salmon (Hamburg loves its fish), but also käsespätzle (Yotam Ottolenghi has a delicious-looking recipe) and the wonderfully named kartoffelpuffer potato pancakes. More recent additions include handbrot, dough balls stuffed with fillings that usually involve cheese—and, oddly, crumble. (You can’t escape crumble these days, but none of it looks as good as the school version to me.)
Though most people seemed there to eat, drink, and be merry, these markets are officially for shopping. Unsurprisingly, the food stalls were my favourite. Christmas cookies are a big deal in Germany; Luisa Weiss has some lovely ideas, while Anna Jones put her spin on citrus, honey, and almond lebkuchen. Just last weekend, Meera Sodha shared her friend’s grandma’s recipe for zimtsterne. I brought a selection home, along with some dense, marzipan-filled stollen bites, which my northern heart will always prefer to panettone. Stollen is also easier to make at home: Dan Lepard has a good quick recipe with sour cherries and quark, though if you’re not in a rush (and this isn’t the time of year for rushing), you might prefer Falko Burkert’s more traditional version.
Finally, if anyone knows how to recreate the huge chocolate rumkugeln I saw but didn’t get to try, please let me know. In the meantime, Frohe Weihnachten—wishing you all a delicious and joyful December, however you spend it.
My week in food
A time for giving | Christmas, like many religious festivals, is a time for giving. Whether or not you celebrate, you might want to share the love where it’s truly needed by investing £10 in All Our Kitchens, a new digital cookbook featuring recipes from Sami Tamimi, Noor Murad, Andi Oliver, and others, including rummaniyeh by Izzeldin Bukhari. All proceeds go to charities supporting Gaza.Professional and home cooks from across the UK, Ireland, and Palestine have contributed to this collection, with all profits going directly to Gaza Soup Kitchen and the Zaynab Project. These charities are working to feed people in Gaza, where the situation remains desperate. You can download it here.
Mmmmmmarzipan
I was disappointed not to find more marzipan available in Hamburg (it’s a specialty of nearby Lübeck). Thankfully, the latest Kitchen Projects newsletter on Substack features a deep dive into all things almond paste by Camilla Wynne. It includes a recipe that sounds far better than any I’ve tried, along with inspiring photos of cute marzipan potatoes, deviled eggs, and doughnuts.
Skaus or scouse?
Hamburg is less famous for hamburgers and more for dishes that celebrate its maritime heritage. Fish sandwiches are the go-to fast food at any hour, while comfort food comes in the form of labskaus—a salt beef and potato hash turned a striking red with beetroot juice, served with a fried egg, pickles, and the ever-present rollmop. If the name sounds familiar, it’s because this sailor’s favorite is also enjoyed as a stew in Liverpool, where it’s known as lobscouse, or simply scouse. My recipe, however, does not include herring.
Saluti!
A toast to chef Giancarlo Caldesi, whose contributions to Italian cuisine and culinary culture in the UK have been recognized by the Italian government with the title “Ufficiale,” roughly equivalent to a British knighthood. Celebrate with the Caldesis’ (gluten-free!) chocolate and almond torte.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Of course Here is a list of FAQs about Ho ho Hamburg Bring home the authentic tastes of a traditional German Christmas market
General Product Information
Q What exactly is Ho ho Hamburg
A Its a curated collection or gift box designed to bring the classic flavors and treats of a German Christmas market directly to your home
Q What kind of items are typically included
A You can expect traditional foods and drinks like Lebkuchen Stollen various sausages mustards mulled wine spices roasted almonds and often decorative items like a mug or ornaments
Q Is this just food or does it include decorations
A Its primarily focused on authentic edible treats but some sets may include small decorative items like a Christmas market mug or a festive tea towel to enhance the experience
Ordering Shipping
Q How do I order one of these boxes
A They are usually available through specialty German food importers gourmet food websites or subscription box services especially in the late fall and early winter
Q Do you ship internationally
A This depends entirely on the specific seller Many do offer international shipping but its crucial to check their website for delivery areas costs and any food import restrictions for your country
Q When should I order to ensure it arrives before Christmas
A Order early To account for high demand and potential shipping delays its best to place your order by midNovember
Usage Experience
Q Ive never had Glhwein How do I make it
A Its easy The kit usually includes a spice sachet You simply simmer red wine with the spices and some orange slices or sugar according to the provided instructions
Q Whats the best way to enjoy the Stollen
A For the authentic taste slice it thinly and let it come to room temperature Some people love it lightly buttered or with a cup of coffee or tea
Q Can I serve this at a party
A Absolutely These boxes are perfect for creating a festive tasting station Set
