Scotland: from coast to coast
Route: Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh
Which side should I sit? Start on the right, then switch to the left.
Distance: 83 miles (133 km)
Time: 2 hours 40 minutes
Frequency: 4 trains a day (2 on Sundays)
Ticket: £32 single
Operator: ScotRail
There’s only one rail route in Britain where a regular local train gives you views of both the west and east coasts – the line from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. For the east coast, look out for Cromarty Firth on the right as the train nears Dingwall, about half an hour after leaving Inverness. Later, you’ll get great views of west coast sea lochs as the train runs down to the Atlantic coast at Kyle. In between, the train stops at places with alliterative names like Achnashellach, Achnasheen, Achanalt, and Attadale, surrounded by plenty of wild, empty scenery.
The last 20 minutes down to Kyle offer a stunning panorama of coast, headlands, and islands. The sun sparkles on Loch Carron, with beautiful views north to the wild Applecross peninsula. Seals shuffle out of the way as we approach Duncraig, and all too soon we’re pulling into Kyle of Lochalsh.
Ireland: from Dublin to Wicklow
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‘A remarkable piece of engineering’: the railway cuts under Bray Head in Ireland. Photograph: Vitalli/Alamy
Route: Dublin Connolly to Arklow
Which side? Sit on the left.
Distance: 50 miles
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes
Frequency: 6 trains a day (3 on Saturday and Sunday)
Ticket: €8.85 single
Operator: Irish Rail
Londoners might be surprised to learn that Dublin had commuter trains before the UK capital. Ireland’s first railway ran from Westland Row to Kingstown (now Dún Laoghaire), a stretch of track that now serves as the start of a lovely route extending all the way down to Wexford and Rosslare in the southeast corner of Ireland. The spectacular coastal section just south of Dún Laoghaire is a remarkable piece of engineering, as the railway cuts under Bray Head. It was designed by none other than Isambard Kingdom Brunel and is very similar to his famous coastal railway at Dawlish in Devon.
South of Bray Head, the railway hugs the coast, with fine views of the Wicklow Hills off to the west and the Murrough Wetlands closer by. Coastal purists might want to stop at Wicklow, but I recommend staying on board for a short trip through the hills and down the Vale of Avoca, with its lush woodland. Get off in Arklow, where the railway meets the coast again.
Germany: over the sea to the island of Sylt
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Looking out across the Wadden Sea toward Sylt island. Photograph: Peter Schatz/Alamy
Route: Husum to Keitum
Which side? Sit on the left.
Distance: 44 miles
Time: 1 hour
Frequency: Hourly trains
Ticket: €21.60 single
Operator: DB
You can’t help but be impressed by the determination of the Weimar Republic’s engineers and planners who built a railway to Sylt. This sandy outpost of German territory is the largest of the North Frisian Islands. The traditional way to reach Sylt was by ferry from a mainland port on land that was given to Denmark after World War I. So a causeway was built across the Wadden Sea to reach Sylt. It opened in 1927, and a century later, the Hindenburg causeway is still car-free – and since mid-April this year, for the very first time, you can ride a fancy ICE train over the sea to Sylt.
Leaving Husum, a coastal town shaped by the herring trade, we cross over the town’s harbour on a high bridge. Below, a cluster of fishing boats sits at the quayside. Then we glide north over marshlands and meadows, all protected by high dykes to prevent flooding.
From the train, you really get a sense of these landscapes with their distant horizons. But the sea seems far away, held back by the dykes. That changes after Klanxbüll, where the railway turns west and crosses salty mudflats to reach the open sea. Check the tide tables and make this journey at high tide – ideally on a stormy day. In those conditions, it’s an unforgettable experience. Get off at Keitum, which I think is the nicest village on Sylt.From the station, it’s an easy walk into the village, where you’ll find several cozy cafes and plenty of beautiful Frisian thatched roofs and gables.
Spain: Galicia’s Spectacular Fjords
The rugged coastline around Ortigueira on Galicia’s northern coast, passing close to Acantilados de Loiba.
Photograph: Chechu de la Fuente/Alamy
Route: Ribadeo to Ferrol
Which side to sit: On the right
Distance: 91 miles
Time: 3 hours 10 minutes
Frequency: 4 trains a day
Ticket: €11.15 one way
Operator: Renfe
This is a fantastic short journey that follows the western edge of Europe’s largest narrow-gauge rail network. The line runs from the French border at Hendaye through the Basque Country and along Spain’s north coast, passing through Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia. I have mixed feelings about the whole route, as it often heads far inland and can be quite dull. The full trip from Hendaye to Ferrol takes 20 hours on trains, but the short ride on the final stretch from Ribadeo is a slow travel adventure, with twists and turns as the train navigates the rugged coastline around Ortigueira.
The tacky beachfront development west of Ribadeo is best ignored. Soon, we leave the motorway behind and return to the coast, with waves breaking on the right and dense eucalyptus forest on the left. There are stunning views across the large rias (estuaries) that are typical of the Galician coast. Keep an eye out for Cape Ortegal to the north. When I took this route on a mid-winter morning, there were barely a dozen passengers on board for most of the trip, though numbers picked up in the final half hour as shoppers heading to Ferrol joined us.
This is a very basic local train—those looking for luxury on rails might prefer the El Transcantabrico charter train, which includes Ribadeo to Ferrol as part of a seven-night itinerary, at very high prices.
Italy: Along the Calabrian Coast
The Ionian coast near Capo Spartivento at the very tip of southern Italy.
Photograph: Antonio Violi/Alamy
Route: Reggio di Calabria to Soverato
Which side to sit: On the right
Distance: 100 miles
Time: 2 hours 20 minutes
Frequency: Every 1 to 2 hours
Ticket: €11.90 one way
Operator: Trenitalia
Most tourists on the smart Frecciarossa train down the Calabrian coast get off at Villa San Giovanni to catch the ferry to Sicily. From there, it’s just 15 minutes to Reggio di Calabria, where the fast trains from northern Italy and Rome all end. This seems like the end of the line and the end of Italy. But not quite! A local railway follows the coast of Calabria, leaving the Strait of Messina to reach the Ionian shores.
No other railway in Europe hugs the coast as consistently as this stretch of the Ionian Railway. It’s part of a longer route that extends all the way to faded Taranto in Puglia, more than 290 miles from Reggio di Calabria.
This recommended sample of the line follows the coast around the southernmost tip of mainland Italy. It’s a route of capes and bays, olives and oleander, with the bright drama of a changing coastline and a sharp contrast to the dark forests of Aspromonte that dominate the hills on the left. To the right, there’s nothing but the sea between here and the Libyan coast.
Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide (19th edition) by Nicky Gardner & Susanne Kries (Hidden Europe Publications, £21.99). To order a copy for £19.79, go to guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here is a list of FAQs about Europes best coastal train lines written in a natural tone with clear answers
1 What exactly makes a train line a coastal or seahugging route
A coastal train line runs very close to the shoreline often with the sea visible right from the window for long stretches These routes typically have tracks built along cliffs beaches or harbors offering dramatic views of the water islands and coastal villages
2 Can you name a few of the most famous coastal train lines in Europe
Yes The Cinque Terre line between La Spezia and Genoa is a classic Others include the West Highland Line the Flam Railway the Bernina Express and the Cte dAzur line from Marseille to Nice
3 Are these scenic trains expensive or can I use a regular Eurail pass
Most of these are regular regional trains not special tourist trains You can use a Eurail or Interrail pass on the Cinque Terre line the Cte dAzur line and parts of the West Highland Line The Flam Railway and Bernina Express require a separate reservation fee even with a pass
4 Which side of the train should I sit on for the best views
It depends on the route For the Cinque Terre line sit on the right side For the Cte dAzur line sit on the left For the West Highland Line the best views are on the right side after Fort William Always check a guide or ask the conductor
5 Do I need to book tickets in advance for these routes
For the Flam Railway and the Bernina Express yesbook at least a few days ahead especially in summer For the Cinque Terre and Cte dAzur lines you can buy tickets at the station on the day but its safer to book online if you want a guaranteed seat during peak season
6 What is the best time of year to take a coastal train in Europe
Late spring and early autumn are ideal
