Idan ka ziyarci shagon Paul Smith a Mayfair, London, a kowace Asabar, tabbas za ka ga wani tsohon ma'aikacin shago—wanda ya yi ado da kyau a cikin tufafi masu kyau—yana zuwa don taimaka maka zaɓar riga, kwat da wando don wani taron musamman, ko watakila safa masu ban sha'awa. Paul Smith ya nuna, watakila ba lallai ba ne, cewa babu yawancin manyan kamfanonin kayan ado na duniya "inda mai shi ya kasance yaron Asabar." Amma yin aiki a shagonsa, ɗaya daga cikin fiye da 130 a duniya, watakila shine mafi kyawun ɓangaren aikinsa. "Yana da ban mamaki, kana saduwa da mutane da yawa masu ban sha'awa," in ji shi da babban murmushi. Smith ya ce duk aikinsa ya kasance game da yin abubuwa daban. Shi mai zanen kayan ado ne wanda ya koya wa kansa, wanda ya gina alamar Burtaniya ta duniya, ya ƙara haske mai haske ko ratsi a cikin tufafin gargajiya, kuma ya ƙi manyan tayin da yawa don siyan kamfaninsa don ya ci gaba da iko.
Sir Paul Smith ya cika shekara 80—kuma yana da ƙarfin da ake kishi na wani mai rabin shekarunsa, yana yin iyo kowace rana kafin 6 na safe. Yana shirin fitar da littafinsa na tarihin rayuwa, Threads: My Life in Style. Wannan dama ce mai kyau don yin la'akari. Rayuwarsa tabbas ta yi sa'a—wuri mai kyau, lokaci mai kyau, mutane masu kyau (musamman matarsa, Pauline, wadda ya sadu da ita yana 21 kuma ta kasance mabuɗin nasararsa)—amma kuma labari ne na aiki tuƙuru, gaskiya, da tawali'u. Za mu duba ko waɗannan ƙa'idodin har yanzu suna da muhimmanci a cikin duniya mai wahala da gasa, da kuma ko Paul Smith zai iya ci gaba.
Smith yana da daɗi sosai kuma yana jin daɗin tattaunawa. Muna zaune a tebur a cikin ginshiki na shagonsa na Mayfair, kewaye da kyawawan kayan daki masu tsada na tsakiyar ƙarni (ya kasance yana sayar da abubuwa masu ban sha'awa tare da tufafinsa). Kowace lokaci, wani ma'aikaci yana wucewa kuma zai dakata don tambaya ("Kana lafiya? Ka ji daɗi?"). Siyayya ta kan layi tana da kyau, na gaya masa, amma ina son shagunan gaske kuma, ko aƙalla waɗanda ke da hali. Shin za su tsira? "Ina fata cewa yara masu shekaru 12 da 14 a yau za su gane cewa akwai yaudara da yawa a waje," kuma za su iya samun farin ciki da mamaki a cikin "shago mallakar mutum ɗaya, ko tattaunawa da za ka iya yi [a can]."
Smith bai shirya zama mai zane ba. An haife shi a 1946, ya girma a Nottingham kuma yana so ya zama ɗan tseren keke har sai wani mummunan haɗari ya sa shi a asibiti na makonni takwas kuma ya ƙare wannan mafarkin. "Ina tsammanin mafi kusancin haɗin kai da ƙirƙira shine mahaifina ya kasance mai ɗaukar hoto mai son," in ji shi. Harold Smith ya yi aiki a matsayin mai siyar da kayan ado—mutane suna sayen tufafi daga gare shi a kashi-kashi—kuma Smith ya sami aikinsa na farko tare da wannan kamfani yana 15. Harold kuma ya kafa ƙungiyar kamara ta gida. "Na kasance ina sauraron mutane suna magana game da wani abu da ake kira composition da haske, sannan ina ɗaukar lokaci a cikin ɗakin duhu tare da mahaifina." Mai ban dariya, mai ƙirƙira, ɗan ƙirƙira, mahaifinsa yana da alama yana da ƙarfi a cikin littafin fiye da mahaifiyarsa. Shin ya fi tasiri? "Ina tsammanin haka, i. Ɗaukar hoto ya koya mini gaske dubawa da gani. Don haka ina tsammanin hakan ya taimaka mini in duba abubuwa a hankali. Kuma ya kasance mai sadarwa sosai." Harold ya mutu yana 92, har yanzu yana ƙirƙirar kayan wasa masu ban sha'awa ("Ina tsammanin yawancin hakan ƙirƙira ne ko tunani mai zurfi") kuma yana riƙe da abokai matasa da yawa, wanda Smith ma yake yi. Mahaifiyarsa, Marjorie, ta kasance mai ƙauna da kwanciyar hankali, wanda ya ba Smith ƙarfin gwiwa sosai. "Ina tsammanin amincin samun uwa irin wannan ya kasance mai daɗi sosai." Daga baya, ya ce, yana bayyana tsarinsa: "Ina tsammanin kawai ina cikin kwanciyar hankali da rayuwa."
A 21, Smith har yanzu yana cikin... Yana da baƙin ciki, yana jin kamar tsohon abu ne kuma mai son zuciya a duniyar yau mai ƙarfin hali da riba. Smith ya nuna cewa yanzu suna da sabbin shugabanni, ciki har da sabon manajan darakta, waɗanda "sun fito daga wuraren kasuwanci sosai, don haka fatana shine samun daidaito mai kyau. Ina tsammanin watakila ni ɗan ban mamaki ne a duniyar yau don haka dole ne ka tabbatar kana da ƙungiya a bayanka."
Duba hoto a cikakken allo
Paul Smith a ofishinsa na sama. Hoton: © Paul Smith/Paul Smith Archive
Smith ba shi da shirin yin ritaya. "Ina tsammanin Pauline ba za ta so ni a gida ba," in ji shi. Sabon abin da yake mayar da hankali a kai shine Paul Smith Foundation, wanda ke raba ilimi da ƙwarewa—da kuma tallafin karatu—ga matasa masu zane da ƴan kasuwa. "Duk abubuwan da ban sani ba a 20 shine abin da nake ƙoƙarin taimaka musu da su." Ba wai kawai sassa masu ban sha'awa kamar zane ba, amma abubuwa masu amfani kamar VAT da kwangiloli. Ya yi niyyar barin duk kuɗinsa ga gidauniyar. "A zahiri komai," in ji shi. (Pauline tana da dukiyarta daga sayar da rabonta a kamfanin kuma za ta kula da iyali, in ji shi.) "Burina shine kawai taimaka wa tsararraki masu zuwa." Ya kadu da manyan kamfanonin kayan ado waɗanda ke ɗaukar matasa masu zane kai tsaye daga kwaleji, "suna shan ra'ayoyinsu," sannan su bar su a cikin ƴan shekaru.
Smith ya rubuta littafinsa da waɗannan matasa masu zane a zuciya. "Ina son littafin da zai taimaka wa mutane a masana'antar ƙirƙira su gane cewa za ka iya yin shi ta hanya dabam," in ji shi. Amma da yawa daga cikinmu za su iya amfani da tunatarwa, bisa ga labarin Smith, na abin da ke yin rayuwa mai kyau—son sani, ƙirƙira, dariya, kula da wasu, da buri ba tare da haɗama ba. A cikin duniya mai wahala, ya kasance mai kyakkyawan fata, in ji shi, da "dariya, ƙungiya mai kyau, rashin ɗaukar kaina da muhimmanci." Bugu da ƙari, yin aiki a shagunansa, magana da abokan ciniki, da jin daɗin fasaha a bangon da kyawawan abubuwan da yake taimaka ƙirƙira ko samu. Bai bambanta da saurayin da ya buɗe shagonsa na farko shekaru 56 da suka wuce ba. "Na tabbata har yanzu ni ɗan shago ne."
Threads: My Life in Style na Paul Smith za a buga shi a ranar 10 ga Satumba ta Macmillan, a cikin littafi mai ƙarfi, e-book, da audio, wanda Bill Nighy ya karanta. Don tallafawa Guardian da Observer, yi odar kwafinka a guardianbookshop.com. Kana da ra'ayi kan batutuwan da aka tada a wannan labarin? Idan kana so ka ƙaddamar da amsa har zuwa kalmomi 300 ta imel don a yi la'akari da bugawa a sashin wasiƙunmu, don Allah danna nan.
Tambayoyin da Aka Yi Yawa
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyin da aka yi yawa bisa ga jigogin labarin da aka rubuta cikin yanayin tattaunawa na halitta
Gabaɗaya Falsafa
1 Menene ma'anar maganar "Yi aiki tuƙuru, babu wanda ya damu da yadda ka kasance a da" a zahiri
Yana nufin nasarorin da ka samu a baya ba su ba ka izinin yin ƙoƙari a yau ba Duniyar kayan ado koyaushe tana kallon gaba don haka dole ne ka tabbatar da ƙimarka da aikin yanzu ba wai kawai dogaro da sunanka ba
2 Me yasa Paul Smith mashahurin mai zane har yanzu yana aiki tuƙuru yana 80
Domin yana ƙaunar shi da gaske A gare shi aiki ba abin ƙyama ba ne tushen jin daɗi ne ƙirƙira da saduwa da mutane Ba ya ganin ritaya a matsayin zaɓi domin yana samun farin ciki da ƙarfi sosai daga tsarin zane da gudanar da kasuwancinsa
3 Menene sirrin dogon aiki mai nasara na Paul Smith
Babu wani sirri guda ɗaya amma haɗin son sani mai zurfi ƙaƙƙarfan ɗabi'ar aiki da kasancewa cikin wasa Ya shahara da sha'awar komai daga fasaha zuwa injiniyoyin mota kuma yana karkatar da wannan sha'awar marar iyaka cikin zanen sa don kiyaye su sabo
4 Shin labarin tarihin rayuwa ne ko hira
Labari ne mai faɗi wanda ke nufin ɗan jarida mai tsawo Ya haɗa kai tsaye daga hira da Paul Smith tare da abubuwan lura na marubuci da bayanan baya don zana hoton rayuwarsa da halayensa
Aiki da Ƙaƙƙarfan Aiki
5 Ta yaya Paul Smith ke kasancewa da muhimmanci lokacin da salon kayan ado ke canzawa da sauri
Ba ya bin salon maimakon haka yana kasancewa da gaskiya ga nasa salon na gargajiya tare da canji Yana kiyaye abubuwa masu muhimmanci ta hanyar neman sabon ilhami koyaushe haɗa launuka da yadudduka ta hanyoyin da ba a zata ba da kuma kiyaye jin daɗi a cikin zanensa
6 Menene "babu wanda ya damu da yadda ka kasance a da" ke nufi ga matasa masu zane da suka fara
Yana nufin digirinka ko horon da ka yi a baya baya bada tabbacin nasara a gaba Dole ne ka ci gaba da ƙoƙari ka koyi sabbin ƙwarewa kuma ka samar da kyakkyawan aiki kowace kakar Masana'antar kawai tana kula da abin da kake yi yanzu
7 Shin Paul Smith yana da wata shawara don magance matsalar ƙirƙira
Yayin da labarin bai ba da jagora mataki-mataki ba misalinsa yana nuna amsar ita ce ka nisa daga tebur Yana samun ilhami ta hanyar tafiya
