Yanayin zafi a Paris yana kusan 41°C lokacin da Erwan Leo ya buɗe Le Butter a wannan bazara. Gobarar daji ta riga ta mamaye Faransa, kuma birnin ya yi tsit—musamman a yankin 8th arrondissement da ba a yawan zuwa yawon buɗe ido ba, wani yanki mai arziki kusa da Hasumiyar Eiffel da aka fi sani da "triangle na zinariya." Abu na ƙarshe da ake tsammanin yana buƙata shi ne shago da ke sayar da man shanu kawai. "Mun damu sosai game da firji," in ji Leo, mai shekaru 34. "Ba mu yi tunanin kowa zai zo ba."
Bayan wata biyu, a watan Satumba, na ziyarci Le Butter, shago na farko a Paris da aka keɓe gaba ɗaya don sayar da man shanu. Wuri ne mai ban sha'awa, mai ɗaukar hoto, wanda ke tsakanin wani shagon giya da Leo ya buɗe shekaru takwas da suka wuce da wani gidan shayi da ya shahara saboda an tarwatsa shi a cikin Inception na Christopher Nolan. A ciki, akwai bangon da aka yi wa ado da ratsi masu launin alawa, ƙananan kwandunan sayayya, wani shiryayye na kayan man shanu masu dacewa da Instagram (wukake, huluna, jakunkuna), da firji biyu masu ninki biyu da ke ɗauke da nau'ikan man shanu 50 daban-daban. Yau ya fi sanyi sosai; firjin suna yin sauti a daidai 3°C. Watannin da suka gabata sun kasance masu aiki—sosai aiki har Leo ya sa a girka benci ga mutanen da ke jira a waje da wani shinge mai ja da baya don sarrafa layukan.
A waje, na sami gungun masu sha'awar man shanu suna kwatanta abin da suka saya. Daga cikinsu akwai Clifford Yellen, wani shugaba ɗan Italiya-Amurka mai shekaru 66 kuma mai ba da shawara wanda ya saya da yawa—"tsantsa kawai, mai gishiri." Ya buɗe jakarsa ta takarda ya nuna mini fakiti da yawa, waɗanda aka lulluɓe su da injin don jirgin da zai koma gida. "Mu masu dafa abinci muna da sha'awa ta musamman ga man shanu," in ji shi. Yawanci yana cin man shanu na Italiya, ko kuma sanannen Hokkaido mai kirim daga Japan.
A cikin shagon, masu yawon buɗe ido daga Brazil da Koriya sun taru a kusa da wani akwatin nuni na gilashi a kan tebur, inda ma'aikata ke ba da quenelles na man shanu na tafarnuwa daji a kan cokali na itace na ɗanɗano. Masu ɗanɗanon sai su gwada ɗanɗanon raspberry da cakulan. "Ina kiran Le Butter shagon ice cream na man shanu!" in ji Leo da dariya.
Nau'ikan daban-daban a Le Butter, Paris. Hoto: Magali Delporte/The Guardian
Kuma yayin da aka hana masu yawon buɗe ido na Biritaniya shigo da man shanu na Faransa zuwa Burtaniya tun 2025 don hana yaduwar cututtukan dabbobin gona, a matsayinmu na al'umma muna kuma girmama man shanu. A farkon wannan shekara, Pembroke Club da ke Belgravia, London, ya sanya talla a mujallar Country Life don neman masani kan man shanu, yana neman wanda zai iya "tsara nau'ikan man shanunmu da taimakawa wajen horar da ma'aikata ta amfani da motar man shanu ta azurfa."
Ga waɗanda za su iya ɗaukar man shanu gida, akwai dukan zaren Reddit da ke tattauna mafi kyawun hanyar jigilar shi da jirgin sama (daskararre, an lulluɓe da injin, a cikin buhun zip) da kuma inda za a saya. Da jagorar ɗaya, na nufi La Grande Épicerie de Paris don ganin sanannen "bangon man shanu," inda ake sayar da nau'ika 150. Nau'ikan biyu mafi shahara, a cewar ma'aikata, su ne Le Beurre Bordier da Beillevaire. Kamar yawancin man shanu na Faransa masu kyau, suna da ɗanɗano mai sabo, mai arziki tare da zurfi mai ɗaci—wataƙila saboda yawan kitsen man shanu da shanun da ake ciyar da ciyawa.
Ko da man shanu na matakin sama yana da arha, kuma a yanzu, a cikin wannan tattalin arzikin "ɗan jin daɗi," kashe €8 kan wani ƙwallon man shanu da aka yayyafa masa fleur de sel yana jin kamar abu mai sauƙin sarrafawa fiye da sayen kwalban giya mai kyau. Sabon abin da ya shahara, in ji Leo, shi ne mutane suna ba da man shanu kamar yadda za su ba da cuku bayan abincin dare, a kan alluna da biscuits. "Hakan ma ya fi arha."
Yayin da nake ba da rahoto daga makon kayan ado na Paris, Instagram ɗina ya zama jerin man shanu masu daɗi da aka shimfiɗa a kan teburan taron tare da manyan gurasa, ko kuma an doke su an tara su cikin ƙananan tuddai a matsayin abubuwan tsakiya. Ina kallon masu tasiri suna cizon sandunan man shanu gaba ɗaya, ko kuma ana ba su faranti na dabino medjool cike da ɓangarorin man shanu. Yana da kyau kuma mai banƙyama a lokaci guda.
Har ma ya zama kayan aiki ga masu fasahar abinci. Laila Gohar, 'yar fasaha Ba'amurkiya-Masar, tana ɗaukarsa kamar marmara, kuma ta taɓa sassaƙa shi ya zama guntun David na Michelangelo. A wani bikin ƙira, 'yar fasahar abinci Imogen Kwok ta gina mazugi mai tsayin ƙafa daga man shanu da aka doke da ganyayen daji. Duba hoto a cikakken allo. Guntun David na Michelangelo na Laila Gohar, wanda aka sassaƙa daga man shanu. Hoto: Laila Gohar. Barazanar ƙarancin man shanu ce ta mayar da 'yar jaridar Afirka ta Kudu Safia Patel, mai shekaru 35, "mai tara man shanu" da kanta wanda yanzu ke tattarawa da rarraba shi. A gidanta a Istanbul tana ajiye man shanu na dafa abinci, man shanu na ci, da man shanu na "ado" (wanda ya fi tamani a ci), wanda na ƙarshe tana ajiyewa a cikin firjin daskarewa. Ƙaunar man shanu ta fito daga kakarta, wadda ta kan ci shi cikin kauri, yankakken sanyi a kan gurasa. Amma a lokacin annobar cutar ne ta fahimci yadda yake da muhimmanci a gare ta. Tana saya Lurpak a gida a Istanbul – amma yayin da annobar ta ci gaba, ya zama da wuya a samu. "Da abubuwa suka koma daidai, na fara tilasta wa mutane su kawo mini man shanu daga ko'ina cikin duniya idan na ƙare." Yawancin kwanaki tana ɗauke da fakiti biyu ko uku masu girman rabo a cikin jakarta, "kawai idan. Eh, yana iya yin ɓarna." Duba hoto a cikakken allo. Cakulan, barkono da ɗanɗanon dabino suna cikin nau'ikan masu gishiri da marasa gishiri a Le Butter. Hoto: Magali Delporte/The Guardian. Kyawun marufin Le Butter a zahiri ya sa ya zama abin burgewa a kafofin sada zumunta, wanda Leo ya bayyana a matsayin takobi mai kaifi biyu. "Babu shakka, ina godiya," in ji shi. "Amma kuma yana iya zama mai wahala. Manufar shagon ita ce ilimantar da mutane fiye da man shanu na babban kanti, da kuma hidima ga mazauna gida da masu yawon buɗe ido. Za mu iya yin iya ƙoƙarinmu kawai." Wannan ɗaukakar man shanu har yanzu tana da rarrabuwa sosai. "Idan ana maganar salo na abinci, wasu daga cikin abin da suke yi yana da kyau," in ji Seb Myers na gidan abinci Planque a gabashin London. "Amma idan ka ga tulin man shanu – duk wannan almubazzaranci don neman hoto? Ina da tsananin kulawa da abinci. Sharar gida ita ce babban abin da ya damu ni." A gidajen abinci, na manta sau nawa aka ba ni man shanu da aka siffanta shi kamar ƙananan tsabar gishiri ko kuma aka doke shi ya zama wani abu da za a tsoma. Gurasa da man shanu har yanzu suna ɗaya daga cikin muhimman lokuta a cikin abinci mai kyau. Kuma kamar yadda Anthony Bourdain ya rubuta a Kitchen Confidential, "Idan ka ci a kowane gidan abinci mai kyau, ka ɗauka cewa ka ci sanda na man shanu." Duba hoto a cikakken allo. Daɗin man shanu a Planque, London. "Wannan wani ɓangare saboda yana fara abincin," in ji Myers, wanda ke ɗaukar man shanunsa da muhimmanci sosai. "Idan wani ya ba ka ɗan man shanu mai sanyi ƙanƙara, ka sani ba za ka ji daɗi ba." Gidan abincinsa wasa ne a kan bistronomy na Paris, don haka "yana kusan kowane abinci." Suna amfani da man shanu Beillevaire demi-sel da aka yayyafa masa flakes, a yanka shi kuma a daidaita zafinsa sosai. Yana ajiye shi a "firjin cuku na mako ɗaya don a hankali ya girma." Don dafa abinci, Douceur de France ne (suna amfani da kilogiram 10 a mako a dafa abinci kawai). Pravin Nayar yana gudanar da gidan abinci na Castle Farm a Somerset, kuma yana yin nasa: "Muna son man shanu ya zama jarumin abu idan muna yin kulob na abincin dare." Makullin, in ji shi, shi ne yadda kake ba da shi: a zafin ɗaki, an yayyafa masa gishiri. "Yadda nake gani, gurasa cokali ne kawai na man shanu." Ka tuna lokacin da aka ɗauki man shanu a matsayin mara kyau? Bayan duk waɗannan yaƙin neman zaɓe na lafiya game da kitsen da ya cika, amfani ya kai mafi ƙanƙanta a tarihi a ƙarshen shekarun 1990, inda ɗan Biritaniya na yau da kullum yake cin kilogiram 2 kawai a shekara. Ra'ayi game da shi da alama ya canza, ko da yake da kashi 50% na kitsen da ya cika – kuma ina faɗin wannan da ƙauna – man shanu ba ainihin abincin lafiya ba ne. "Shawarwarin lafiyar zuciya ba su canza ba," in ji Tracy Parker, wata ƙwararriyar abinci mai rijista kuma mai ba da shawara ga Gidauniyar Zuciya ta Biritaniya. "Idan kana da hawan cholesterol, ko kuma abincinka ya riga ya dogara sosai kan kitsen da ya cika – ka yi tunanin nama mai kitse, pastries, kekuna, biscuits – to ya kamata ka sake tunani game da yawan da kake ci da kuma ko za ka iya musanya shi da wani abu kamar man zaitun, avocado ko na goro." Man shanu ba shi da laifi idan an yi amfani da shi a matsakaici, in ji ta. "Ɗan shafa mai sauƙi a kan gurasar safenka, kuma idan kana kula da duk sauran abin da kake ci, wataƙila ba ka da matsala," in ji ta. To me ya sa man shanu ya sake zama abin gaye a cikin al'adunmu masu sha'awar lafiya na 2026? Parker ta yi imanin cewa yana da alaƙa da ƙungiyar adawa da abinci da aka sarrafa sosai. "An danganta UPFs da matsalolin lafiya kamar kiba, ciwon sukari na nau'i na 2, da cututtukan zuciya," in ji ta. Man shanu, akasin haka, ana ganinsa a matsayin samfurin kafin masana'antu, na gona. "Mutane suna ganin man shanu a matsayin na halitta, don haka ya fi wani abu kamar margarine," in ji ta.
Iyalina na mutum huɗu suna amfani da fakiti ɗaya a mako. Shin hakan da yawa? Ba sosai ba. A Burtaniya, muna cin fiye da kilogiram 3 na man shanu ga kowane mutum a shekara—kusan isa ga gurasar toast da aka shafa man shanu a matsakaici kowace rana. Wannan ba komai ba ne idan aka kwatanta da Belgium, waɗanda ke cin kilogiram 8, ko Faransawa da Danish, waɗanda ke cin kusan kilogiram 9 ga kowane mutum a shekara.
Yawancin mutanen da na sadu da su a Paris har yanzu sun yi imani da Paradox na Faransa: ra'ayin cewa za su iya cin man shanu da cuku ba tare da samun adadin cututtukan zuciya iri ɗaya da sauran al'ummomi ba. Ɗaya daga cikin mafi shaharun ɗanɗano a Le Butter shi ne cakulan—wani sabon salo mai daɗi a kan abincin bayan makaranta na gargajiya (wanda aka sani da le goûter ko le quatre-heures) na murabba'in cakulan baki, man shanu mai gishiri, da gurasa sabo. Gaskiyar cewa cututtukan zuciya da jijiyoyin jini sune babbar sanadin mutuwa ta biyu a Faransa wataƙila ba za ta canza wannan sosai ba. "Abu ne da muke ci kowace rana," in ji Leo. "Ba na duba cholesterol ɗina—ba na son sani."
Ni kuwa, ina da hypercholesterolemia na iyali, wata cuta ta gado da ta zama ruwan dare wacce ke haifar da matakan LDL, ko "mugun," cholesterol sosai tun daga haihuwa. Lokacin da na gaya wa Parker, ta amsa da "ah" cikin ladabi. Ba ni da kiba, amma a wani lokaci zan buƙaci shan statins; na kuma fito daga zuriyar masu fama da ciwon zuciya. Bayan mun yi magana, na ta'azantar da kaina da guntun gurasar rye mai man shanu, da sanin cewa ya kamata in sake tunani game da zaɓukan rayuwata ma. Amma kamar mutane da yawa, ina son man shanu.
Ga Patel, fakiti ɗaya na man shanu ya fice daga sauran tarin ta: rabin fakiti na Kerrygold daga 2019, wanda aka daskare tun lokacin. "Ina ajiye shi wani ɓangare a matsayin inshora, idan na ƙare. Amma kuma saboda yana ba ni kwanciyar hankali—yana tunatar da ni wani lokaci daban." Tana son aikinta, amma burinta shi ne ta gudanar da gonar kiwo. "Ko aƙalla in je Paris, zuwa wannan shagon, in ci duk wannan man shanu." Kana da ra'ayi kan batutuwan da aka tada a wannan labarin? Idan kana son ka aika amsa mai kalmomi har 300 ta imel don a yi la'akari da ita don bugawa a sashen wasiƙunmu, don Allah danna nan.
Tambayoyin da ake yawan yi
Ga jerin tambayoyin da ake yawan yi game da bunƙasar man shanu tun daga na asali zuwa ƙarin ci gaba
Abubuwan Asali
1 Menene ainihin bunƙasar man shanu
Ita ce haɓakar shaharar man shanu sosai a cikin shekaru goma da suka wuce Ko da an guje shi shekaru da yawa a matsayin mara lafiya man shanu ya dawo yayin da masu siyayya da masu dafa abinci suka sake gano ɗanɗanonsa kuma suka sake tunani game da gargaɗin da suka gabata game da kitsen da ya cika
2 Me ya sa man shanu ya fita daga gaye tun da farko
Tun daga shekarun 1960 da 70 jagororin lafiya sun zargi kitsen da ya cika da cututtukan zuciya Man shanu yana da kitsen da ya cika sosai don haka mutane da yawa suka koma margarine da man shafawa marasa kitse
3 Me ya sa mutane suke sake sayen man shanu
Dalilai da yawa ƙungiyar abinci na gaske da ke son sinadaran halitta fiye da waɗanda aka sarrafa sabon bincike da ke tambayar tsoffin gargaɗin kitsen da ya cika shaharar abincin lowcarb da keto da kuma gabaɗaya adawa da abinci da aka sarrafa sosai kamar margarine
4 Shin man shanu ya fi margarine lafiya
Ba lallai ba Man shanu na halitta ne amma yana da kitsen da ya cika sosai Margarine an sarrafa shi amma sau da yawa yana ɗauke da kitsen da ba ya cika mai lafiya Zaɓi mafi kyau ya dogara da abincinka da bukatun lafiyarka masana abinci da yawa suna ba da shawarar iyakance duka biyu da yin amfani da man zaitun akai-akai
5 Menene bambanci tsakanin man shanu da margarine
An yi man shanu daga kirim da aka churna samfurin dabba ne An yi margarine daga man kayan lambu da ruwa sau da yawa tare da ƙarin ɗanɗano da launi don kwaikwayon man shanu
6 Shin man shanu yana da illa ga zuciyata
Shaidar ta bambanta Man shanu yana ƙara LDL cholesterol amma sabbin bincike sun nuna cewa haɗinsa gabaɗaya da cututtukan zuciya ya fi ƙanƙanta fiye da yadda ake tunani a da Yawancin masana sun ce ba shi da laifi a matsakaici a matsayin ɓangare na abinci mai daidaito
7 Yaya ake yin man shanu
Ana churn kirim har sai ya rabu zuwa kitsen man shanu da madarar man shanu Sannan a wanke kitsen man shanu a sanya gishiri a siffanta shi Shi ke nan ga man shanu na asali
8 Menene bambanci tsakanin man shanu mai gishiri da mara gishiri
Man shanu mai gishiri yana ɗauke da ƙarin gishiri wanda ke ƙara ɗanɗano kuma yana tsawaita rayuwar ajiya Man shanu mara gishiri yana ba ka damar sarrafa gishirin da kake amfani da shi wajen dafa abinci kuma an fi son shi wajen yin burodi
9 Yaya ya kamata in ajiye man shanu
A cikin firji an nade shi da kyau yana iya jurewa watanni Hakanan ana iya daskare shi har shekara Ɗan kwano na man shanu a kan
