A wannan shekara, na fuskanci ranar 22 ga Fabrairu sau biyu. A karo na farko, ina tashi daga Auckland zuwa San Francisco, na tsallaka layin kwanan wata na duniya a wani wuri a kan Tekun Pacific. Ban taɓa fahimtar abin da ke faruwa a layin kwanan wata ba. Akwai bayani—wani abu game da gungun maza a Washington da suka yanke shawarar inda wata rana take ƙarewa kuma wata ta fara, suna zana layi ta tsakiyar teku. Amma sanin hakan bai sa ya zama ƙasa da ban mamaki ba. Kana yin barci, kuma idan ka tashi, har yanzu jiya ce.
Ya zama kamar Ranar Groundhog, sai dai ni ne groundhog, ina zaune a kujerar jirgina, ina cin abin da menu ya kira "warm pasta dish."
Ina tsakiyar yawon shakatawa na Crowd Pleaser—makonni huɗu na tafiya, dafa abinci, da magana game da abinci a Asiya, Ostiraliya, New Zealand, kuma yanzu Arewacin Amurka. Na bar ƙarshen bazara a New Zealand, tare da cherries a kasuwa da faɗuwar rana da ta daɗe har bayan karfe tara. Sa'an nan na sauka daga jirgin zuwa cikin Fabrairu na San Francisco wanda ya kamata ya zama kamar hunturu. Maimakon haka, ya kasance dumi da rana. Baya ga jet lag na yau da kullun, ina da yanayin jet lag na yanayi.
Muna yawan tunanin cin abinci na yanayi a matsayin wani abu da aka yiwa alama da abubuwan da suka faru—rago a Easter, strawberries a bazara, da farkon pumpkin soup a Oktoba. Bukukuwa da lokuta suna yin yawancin wannan aikin a gare mu, suna tura mu zuwa ga abin da yake shirye, ko mun lura ko ba mu lura ba. Amma duk mun san ainihin abu shine mafi yawan jiki: alamun da jikinka ke karɓa a hankali a ko'ina—sanyi da ke sa ka sha'awar wani abu mai dumi, zafi da ke sa kankana, da aka ci a kan kwano, ta ɗanɗana daidai. Ka tsallaka yankuna da hemispheres da yawa, kuma waɗannan alamun suna rikicewa. Kana jin yunwa, amma ba ka san abin da kake so ba.
Dafa abinci ga wani ɗan ƙaramin ɓangare ne kawai na musayar girma—ɗaya daga cikin kasancewa da bayyana.
Don haka a ranar 22 ga Fabrairu ta biyu, na ɗauki jirgin ƙasa zuwa Oakland don ziyartar abokina Samin Nosrat—mafi kyawun magani ga sha'awar da ta ruɗe. Akwai gurasar banana da na isa, daga sabon littafinta Good Things, mai haske da sukari da cinnamon, da bananas duka da aka gasa a saman. Mun sha kofi a lambun, muka yi yawo a unguwar, muka shiga da fita daga ƙananan shaguna. Na yi watsi da gargaɗin Samin kuma na sayi kayan yumbu da na san zan ɗauka na tsawon makonni biyu.
Don abincin dare, Samin ta sayi chips da kaza mai gasa daga gidan abinci na musamman. Ta kuma ɗauki wasu ganye daga kasuwa, ta buɗe firjinta, ta fito da wasu kwalabe da kwalabe masu ɗauke da dressings da ta yi: vinaigrette, lemon da miso dressing, ɗaya mai tahini da ganye, da wani abu mai kirim da yogurt. Mun yi ado da ganye, muka cire kaza gunduwa-gunduwa, muka zauna mu ci.
A cikin Good Things, Samin ta rubuta game da hankali—yadda lokaci, da saurin abokin hankali, sune mafi daraja abubuwan da za mu iya bayarwa ko karɓa. Kuma cewa dafa abinci ga wani ɗan ƙaramin ɓangare ne kawai na musayar girma: ɗaya daga kasancewa da bayyana.
Na yarda ya ɗauki ɗan lokaci kafin in saba da wannan ra'ayin. Hankalina, idan na isa gidan aboki don abincin dare, shine koyaushe in yi ƙari—in bayar da taimako, in yi wani abu, in tabbatar da kasancewara da ƙoƙari. Akwai wani nau'in mai dafa abinci, kuma ni ɗaya daga cikinsu, wanda kamun kai ba ya zuwa a zahiri. Muna nuna ƙauna ta hanyar aiki mai wuya. Don haka kaza da aka saya a shago na iya zama kamar ƙaramin shan kashi.
Shirina na dafa abinci na bazara: karɓar ɗan taimako—tsuntsaye ko meringues da aka saya a shago, mango mai cikakken girma—kuma in ƙara lokaci a teburin.
Amma wannan shine ainihin abin da bazara ke neman ka koya. Hunturu yana ba ka rufi—wani abu a cikin tanda, kicin cike da tururi, kuma aikin da kansa shine maƙasudin. Duhu yana tabbatar da samarwa. Bazara ba ta da yawan gafara. Zuwa Yuni, tumatur, zucchini, cherries, da nectarines suna kan kololuwarsu, kuma mafi kyawun abin da za ka iya yi shine ka bar su su tafi. Salatin tumatur, da aka yi ado da sauƙi, an bar shi ya zauna a cikin ruwansa har sai farantin ya zama ja-orange kuma yana neman burodi. Peach mai kyau, oh...A kan kanta, ko gasa da ɗan brown sugar da ɗan rum.
Ainihin dafa abinci yana faruwa a cikin yanke shawara na farko da ka yi, ta yadda lokacin da baƙi suka isa, kana zaune a teburin tare da su. Wasu ragowar condiments daga abincin da suka gabata, ko waɗanda ka yi lokacin da kake da ɗan lokaci—kamar dressing, mai, pickle mai sauri, ko ma yayyafawa mai citrus da sukari, kamar wanda nake amfani da shi a cikin mango mess na—sune ainihin abin da kake buƙata don wani nau'in abincin bazara.
Cin abin da ya girma, sanyi, da ruwa a watan Agusta ba game da zama mai nagarta ba ne—game da kula ne. Kuma dalilin da ya sa dafa abinci na bazara ya kamata ya zama mai sauƙi ba shine saboda mai sauƙi ne, amma saboda sauƙi shine kawai hanyar da za a kasance a nan yanzu don a zahiri ɗanɗana abincin—kuma don kasancewa tare da mutanen da kake ciyarwa.
Shirina na dafa abinci na bazara: karɓar ɗan taimako—kaza ko meringues da aka saya a shago, mango mai cikakken girma—kuma in ƙara lokaci a teburin. Ranar 22 ga Fabrairu ta biyu ta fi ta farko kyau sosai.
Salatin kaza na coronation na Vadouvan tare da yoghurt na lemun tsami
Salon abinci: Ellie Mulligan. Salon kayan aiki: Max Robinson. Hoton: Steven Joyce/The Guardian
Kaza ta coronation wani lokaci tana samun mummunan suna, amma wannan sigar—tare da yoghurt na lemun tsami, apricots masu ɗanɗano, da cashews—tana ba da hujja mai ƙarfi game da ita. An gina ta a kusa da kaza mai gasa da aka saya a shago, kuma duk sauran abubuwa suna haɗuwa da sauri. Irin wannan abinci ne da ka sa a tsakiyar tebur don kowa ya taimaka wa kansa. Vadouvan wani nau'in curry ne mai laushi mai tasirin Faransa, asalinsa daga Pondicherry. Yana da zaƙi daga albasa da tafarnuwa, amma kuma yana da ƙamshi mai ƙarfi daga cumin da fenugreek. Yana da daraja a nema, amma za ka iya maye gurbinsa da foda na Madras curry mai laushi.
Shiri 20 min | Dafa 10 min | Haɗawa 10 min | Yana hidimtawa 4–6
- 150g yoghurt na Girka
- 120g mayonnaise
- 1 lemun tsami (1 tsp grated zest da 1½ tbsp ruwa)
- Gishiri mai laushi na teku da barkono baƙi
- 1 kaza mai gasa daga shago (1kg), da aka ɗauka gunduwa-gunduwa zuwa 3cm (650g)
- 3 tbsp mai na rapeseed mai inganci
- 50g ganye masu gauraya da aka ɗauka, kamar mint, coriander, basil, tarragon, ko parsley
- 50g pea shoots
- 3 albasa mai laushi (45g), da aka yanka a kusurwa
Don man chilli na vadouvan:
- 175ml mai na rapeseed mai inganci
- 50g cashews, da aka yanka zuwa kusan ½ cm
- 100g apricots busassu, da aka yanka zuwa ½ cm
- 50g cakuda kayan yaji na vadouvan (ko foda na Madras curry mai laushi)
- ¼ tsp sukari
- 15g flakes na chilli na Aleppo (ko 2 tsp flakes na chilli na yau da kullun)
- 1 tbsp vinegar na cider
Don man vadouvan, sanya mai na rapeseed a cikin ƙaramin saucepan a kan matsakaicin zafi. Da ya yi zafi, ƙara cashews da apricots, kuma dafa na minti 8-10, har sai cashews sun yi zinari kuma apricots sun yi ɗanɗano. Cire daga zafi, bari ya huce na minti biyu, sa'an nan kuma motsa cakuda kayan yaji na vadouvan, sukari, chilli, da vinegar. Ajiye a gefe don ya huce.
A cikin ƙaramin kwano, motsa yoghurt, mayonnaise, zest na lemun tsami, rabin tablespoon na ruwan lemun tsami, da kwata teaspoon na gishiri. Ajiye a gefe.
A cikin babban kwano, haɗa kaza da tablespoon da rabi na mai, kwata teaspoon na gishiri, da ɗan barkono baƙi. Ƙara ganye, pea shoots, da albasa mai laushi, tare da tablespoon da rabi na mai, tablespoon na ruwan lemun tsami, da kashi takwas na teaspoon na gishiri.
Shirya kaza da cakuda ganye a cikin layi ɗaya a kan farantin. Zuba rabin yoghurt, sa'an nan rabin man vadouvan. Yi hidima da ragowar yoghurt da man a cikin kwano a gefe.
Mango mess tare da kirim na yoghurt da sukari na ganyen lemun tsami
Salon abinci: Ellie Mulligan. Salon kayan aiki: Max Robinson. Hoton: Steven Joyce/The Guardian
Wannan ainihin Eton mess ne, amma tare da mango da sukari na ganyen lemun tsami wanda ya cancanci a yi shi a cikin manyan batches kuma a ajiye shi. Alphonso purée yana ba da zurfin cakuda mango—mango mai sabo kadai ba zai iya cimma hakan ba—kuma duk wani ƙari yana da kyau a motsa shi cikin yoghurt ko a zuba shi a kan salatin 'ya'yan itace. Ana iya shirya komai a gaba—kirim, mangoes, da sukari mai zesty—sa'an nan a haɗa shi a minti na ƙarshe, ko har zuwa awa ɗaya kafin idan kana son meringues su yi laushi kaɗan cikin kirim.
Shiri 30 min | HaɗawaLokacin shiri: kusan minti 10
Yana hidimtawa 6
Don meringues:
6 meringues (na shago suna da kyau, kusan 70g duka)
Don kirim na yoghurt:
600ml kirim biyu
100g yoghurt na Girka
1½ tsp manna na vanilla
1 lemun tsami (1 tsp grated zest da 1 tbsp ruwa)
60g sukari na dabino ko sukari mai ruwan kasa
Don sukari na ganyen lemun tsami:
10g ganyen lemun tsami, an cire mai tushe
40g caster sugar
2 lemun tsami (grate 2 tsp zest, ajiye lemun tsami don mangoes)
⅛ tsp flaked sea salt
Don mangoes:
3 mangoes, an kwasfa kuma an yanka zuwa yanka na ½ cm (400g)
150ml sweetened Alphonso mango puree
15g sukari na dabino ko sukari mai ruwan kasa
2 lemun tsami (an kwasfa, an raba, kuma an yanka nama zuwa 1cm)
Don yin kirim na yoghurt, motsa kirim, yoghurt, vanilla, zest da ruwan lemun tsami, da sukari har sai an sami soft peaks. Ajiye a firji har sai an buƙata.
Saka duk abubuwan don sukari na ganyen lemun tsami a cikin injin sarrafa abinci kuma a buga har sai ganyen sun yanka sosai kuma sukari ya zama kore. Matsa zuwa ƙaramin kwano.
A cikin kwano, haɗa mangoes da puree, sukari, da guntun lemun tsami, kuma ajiye a firji har sai an buƙata.
Don haɗawa, zuba rabin kirim a kan farantin, shirya meringues a saman, sa'an nan kuma a zuba wasu cakuda mango a hankali. Yayyafa ɗan sukari na ganyen lemun tsami a saman, kuma a zuba ragowar kirim. Zuba ƙarin cakuda mango kuma a gama da wani yayyafawa na sukari na ganyen lemun tsami.
Yi hidima da ragowar cakuda mango da sukari na lemun tsami a cikin kwano a gefe.
Tambayoyi da Amsoshi Akai-akai
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyi game da tsarin Yotam Ottolenghi na nishadantarwa mai sauƙi na bazara bisa ga falsafarsa ta Bright and Breezy
Tambayoyi na Matakin Farko
1 Menene Bright and Breezy ke nufi game da dafa abinci
Yana nufin abinci mai sabo, mai rai, da rashin wahala. Yi tunanin yawancin citrus, ganye, da kayan lambu masu ɗanyen tare da ƙaramin lokaci da aka kashe a kan murhu mai zafi. Yana game da yin jita-jita masu ban sha'awa amma masu sauƙi a haɗa su.
2 Ina buƙatar kayan aiki masu yawa ko abubuwan da ba a saba samu ba
Ba komai ba. Yayin da Ottolenghi yana son abubuwa kamar sumac, zaatar, da pomegranate molasses, ainihin Bright and Breezy shine game da amfani da kayan lambu na bazara a lokacin kololuwa. Kyakkyawan wuka na mai dafa abinci, babban faranti, da mai kwasfa kayan lambu mai kaifi sune manyan kayan aikin ku.
3 Menene kyakkyawan abinci na Bright and Breezy ga mai farawa cikakke
Salati mai sauƙi da aka yanka tare da tumatur masu girma, cucumber, albasa ja, da yawancin ganye masu sabo. Yi ado da ruwan lemun tsami, man zaitun, gishiri, da barkono. Yana da crunchy, mai ƙamshi, kuma yana ɗaukar minti 10.
4 Zan iya yin waɗannan jita-jita a gaba don biki
Ee, yawancinsu an tsara su don haka. Salatin hatsi, kayan lambu da aka gasa, da dips kamar hummus ko baba ganoush suna ɗanɗana mafi kyau bayan 'yan sa'o'i ko kwana a firji. Kawai ƙara ganye masu laushi ko dressings kafin yin hidima.
5 Menene hanya mafi sauƙi don sa abinci ya zama na musamman ba tare da aiki mai yawa ba
Yi amfani da babban faranti mai kyau maimakon faranti guda ɗaya. Tattara komai a kai cikin hanya mai launi da rashin tsari. Yayyafawa na ƙarshe na flaky sea salt, ɗan zubar da man zaitun mai kyau, da ɗan hannun ganye masu sabo nan take yana ɗaukaka kowane abinci.
Tambayoyi na Matsakaicin Mataki
6 Ta yaya zan daidaita ɗanɗano masu haske ba tare da amfani da acid da yawa ba
Mabuɗin shine yin la'akari da tushen acid daban-daban. Yi amfani da ruwan lemun tsami don kaifi amma kuma ƙara ɗan pomegranate molasses don zaƙi ko ɗan yoghurt don tushe mai kirim da tangy. ɗan tsunkule na sukari kuma zai iya taimakawa wajen daidaita dressing mai acid sosai.
