"Yau za ku ci fasaha," in ji Federico Valdez, wani mai dafa abinci a Makarantar Abinci ta Mexico wanda yake da sha'awar abinci har ya sa kalmar "Queso" (Cuku) a jikin hannunsa. "Yau," Valdez ya ci gaba, "za ku ci tarihi." Abin da ke faruwa a cikin wani daki mai haske da rana wanda aka cika da furannin Mexico, littattafai, da kayan tarihi shi ne liyafa mai nau'i uku da aka yi wahayi daga Frida Kahlo—rayuwarta, fasaharta, da soyayyarta, ciki har da al'awarin soyayya na farko da ta yi da mace.
Abincin farko, wanda aka yi wahayi daga sha'awarta na yara game da juyin juya hali, wani nau'in pirozhki ne na Mexico mai ɗan yaji, wanda ake so a Rasha. Babban abinci—wanda aka yi amfani da shi tare da pulque, wani abin sha na agave da Kahlo ke so—ya shiga cikin ruhinta na tawaye. "Ana kiransa Frida Against the World," in ji Valdez, yayin da aka kawo mana wani katon chili mai cikawa a cikin miya mai goro da wake mai kama da abin da aka ci a bikin auren Kahlo da Diego Rivera, wanda a lokacin shi ne mafi shahararren mai zane a duniya, amma yanzu sau da yawa yana cikin inuwarta.
Lokacin da ta sami Rivera a kan gado tare da 'yar uwarta, ta ce: "Zan dauki duk kayan daki na in tafi. Ina ƙin ka." "Ina so wannan ya zama mai zafi da sha'awa," in ji Valdez, yana bayyana cewa an ƙara ɓangarorin ɓaure don yin nuni ga sha'awar Kahlo. "Soyayyarta ta farko, tare da malamar mace, ta faru ne a lokacin da Mexico ba ta da buɗe ido sosai. Ina so in haɗa duk wannan tsegumi mai yaji. Ba ni da sha'awar yin wasa da lafiya."
Ina cikin Mexico City tare da wata tawaga ta Tate daidai lokacin da manyan bishiyoyin jacaranda ke fure da shuɗi da violet a wuraren shakatawa da tituna—don bin sawun Kahlo kafin "Frida: The Making of an Icon," wani nuni na fiye da ayyukanta 30 a Tate Modern a London wanda da alama zai zama babban abin jan hankali na bazara, yana ƙara wutar Fridamania.
Wani aiki, "Self Portrait With Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird," an zana shi ne a 1940 bayan kisan aurenta mai raɗaɗi da Rivera. Wani biri mai gizo-gizo, mai kama da wanda ya ba ta kyauta, yana jan abin wuyanta na ƙaya, yana zubar da jini. Ba da daɗewa ba suka sake yin aure, inda Kahlo ta rubuta agogon gidansu da shekarun rabuwarsu da haduwarsu.
"Nunin yana kama da fim," in ji Tobias Ostrander, mai kula da shi. "Frida ita ce tauraruwa, amma kuma game da rayuwarta ne, mutanenta, tasirinta." Yana nuna hawan Kahlo daga mai zane da ba a sani ba zuwa al'amarin duniya, nunin zai kuma bincika kayayyaki (ana sa ran Kahlo Barbie) da auna tasirinta ga masu zane na baya.
Haka kuma za a nuna yawancin abubuwan da mai zane ke daraja, ciki har da rigunanta na Tehuana masu kyawawan alamu. Hotunan Graciela Iturbide na fatalwa na sandunanta, rigunan likita na musamman, da ƙafar roba za a kuma nuna. An ɗauki waɗannan ne shekaru 50 bayan mutuwar Kahlo, lokacin da aka saki duk kayanta daga gidan wanka inda Rivera ya umarci a kulle su.
Wannan ya faru ne a Casa Azul, gidan da ke Coyoacán (Wurin Masu Mallakar Coyote) inda aka haifi Kahlo kuma ta yi yawancin shekarunta 47. Yanzu gidan kayan tarihi ne mai kyau da jan hankali tare da bangon waje mai santsi da aka yi masa fentin shuɗi mai kyau. Waɗannan suna iyaka da hanyoyin kankare masu haske ja waɗanda ke kewaya maɓuɓɓugan ruwa da lambuna masu cike da dabino, yucca, cactus, da bougainvillea. A wani kusurwa, ana gani ta cikin bishiyoyi, wani dala mai ruwan shuɗi mai matakan rawaya yana nuna kayan tarihi na Rivera da Kahlo na zamanin pre-Hispanic, Aztec, da Toltec.
"Ba mu san ainihin inda shuɗin ya fito ba," in ji Perla Labarthe Álvarez, darektan gidan kayan tarihi. "Amma a cikin littafinta, Frida ta bayyana abin da launi ya nufa mata: tsarki, wutar lantarki, da soyayya. Saboda lafiyarta—ta yi tiyata a duk rayuwarta, fiye da sau 30—"Ta yi yawancin lokaci a gida, don haka dole ne ya zama wuri mai dadi inda za ta huta. Yawancin hotunanta na rayuwa an zana su ne a lambun. Ta kira gidanta "Wuri Mai Cike da Wurare." Wannan bayanin ya dace daidai. Wannan wuri ne mai ban sha'awa sosai, ko da ban da gaskiyar cewa Trotsky ya zauna a nan tsawon shekaru biyu tare da matarsa kuma ya yi ɗan gajeren al'awari da Kahlo.
[Hoto: 'Wuri mai cike da wurare' ... Kitchen da lambun Kahlo a Casa Azul; gadonta tare da madubi a sama; da kuma easel da aka daidaita don ta iya zana tana kwance a bayanta ko a keken guragunta. Composite: Bob Schalkwijk/Andrew Gilchrist]
Yawon shakatawa sun fara a falo, wanda ke da babban murhu mai siffar dala wanda Rivera ya tsara. Kamar yadda wani tsohon hoto ya nuna, an taɓa kewaye shi da wasu tsana na Yahuda masu ban tsoro—aljanu na papier-mâché da aka cika da wasanni kuma ana kunna su a lokacin bukukuwa. A gefensa akwai hoton Kahlo mai ban sha'awa na mahaifinta mai daukar hoto da take so, wanda aka zana shekaru 15 bayan mutuwarsa. Idanunsa suna da ban sha'awa kamar nata.
A bangon, hotuna da rubutu suna bayyana cutar polio da Kahlo ta kamu da ita tana shekara shida, wanda ya bar ta da gajeriyar ƙafa, da kuma hatsarin trolley-bus a shekara 18 wanda ya sanya ta a kan dogo na ƙarfe. Wannan hatsari ya sa ta ji zafi a yawancin rayuwarta kuma ya bar ta ba ta iya haihuwa. Ba ta taɓa iya zana wannan hatsari ba, ko da yake aikinta sau da yawa yana da zafi sosai kuma na sirri. Yawancin waɗannan ayyukan an yi su ne a Casa Azul, a sama a ɗakin aikinta, inda baƙi za su iya ganin easel da aka daidaita don ta iya zana tana kwance a bayanta ko tana zaune a keken guragunta.
[Hoto: 'Buga ɗaya zai iya rushe gidan' ... Takalmin Kahlo na musamman da tokar ta a cikin akwati. Composite: Courtesy Andrew Gilchrist]
A ɗaki na gaba akwai gadon mutum ɗaya mai ginshiƙai huɗu inda mahaifiyarta ta sanya madubi a sama. Wannan ya ba Kahlo, wadda sau da yawa tana kwance a gado, duka abin shagala da kuma abin zana. "Ina zana kaina," ta taɓa cewa, "saboda sau da yawa ina kaɗaita kuma ni ne abin da na fi sani."
Tare da rigunanta na likita, ta keɓance takalmanta na orthopedic, ta mai da wani takalmi ja mai tsayi zuwa gwiwa ya zama aikin fasaha. An yi masa ado da alamu na Mexico kuma an yi masa ado da ribbon shuɗi, takalmin mai kauri yanzu yana tsaye da girman kai a cikin akwatinsa. Yana da rai sosai, kamar zai iya rushe gidan duka da buga ɗaya. A halin yanzu, a kan wani tebur, tokar Kahlo tana zaune a cikin wani tsohon akwati mai ban sha'awa. An yi shi da siffar kwadi mai hannaye da ƙafafu masu kama da zane, yana nuna sunan da take kiran Rivera da shi. Wata alama ta karanta, "Ka same ni a rabuwa, kuma ka mayar da ni cike da cikawa."
A gefen farfajiyar, za ka iya ganin sandunan Kahlo da rigunanta na likita, ɗaya an yi masa ado da guduma da lauje. Ta zana kanta a cikin waɗannan rigunan kuma. A cikin Marxism Will Give Health to the Sick, wani aiki na 1954 da ke rataye a kusa, rigar ta zama fatarta, ƙirjinta. Tana shake wani gaggafa mai gashi mai sanye da hular Uncle Sam, yayin da manyan hannayen Marx suka miƙa don rungume ta. Kamar kullum, idanunta masu hankali, masu gani duk suna kallo a ƙarƙashin wannan gira.
[Hoto: Shake Uncle Sam ... Marxism Will Give Health to the Sick. Hoto: Artium/Alamy]
Mafi kyawun aiki a Casa Azul, duk da haka, shine zane na ƙarshe da ta taɓa kammala, wanda aka gama kwanaki takwas kafin mutuwarta a 1954. Mai taken Viva la Vida, ko Long Live Life, yana nuna kankana da yawa da rana ta bushe, 'ya'yan itacen da ba na hukuma ba na Mexico. A wasu wurare, naman su yana ja kamar jini. An yanke wata kankana rabi a cikin tsari mai tsalle-tsalle, yana maimaita Vs na taken, wanda ya bayyana a cikin manyan baƙaƙen haruffa a kan wani yanki. Yana jin kamar 'ya'yan itacen kanta—rayuwa kanta—tana magana da kai, tana ƙarfafa ka: Rayu, rayu.
Abin da ka ɗauka daga Casa Azul shine kusan jin daɗin duka gwanintar Kahlo da juriyarta. Wannan gaskiya ne musamman yayin da kake tafiya titunan maƙwabta da ta yi tsalle a matsayinta na yarinya, sanye da rigar jirgin ruwa da hula, tana zuwa makaranta tare da abokinta. Daga baya, mutane za su kira abin da ta shuka bam. Haƙiƙa, wani abin wuta ne—ko da yake yana da ƙarfi don busa wasu tagogi. Babu wanda ya ji rauni, kuma ba kamar wasu ba, ba a kori Kahlo ba.
Akwai wurin shakatawa a kusa da aka sanya mata suna, tare da dala kusa da wani maɓuɓɓugar ruwa da mutum-mutumi na tagulla na Rivera da Kahlo. Tana tafiya a gaba, mai niyya, kanta ta juya rabi, yayin da yake biye da ita cikin farin ciki, yana murmushi a hankali kuma a fili yana jin tsoron wannan mace, duk da al'amuransa. Gidan da suke so, La Guadalupana, har yanzu yana nan—wani wurin bautar yaƙin bijimai, da kawunan bijimai a bangon, tare da hotuna da fastocin mayaƙa. Zai iya zama mafi sha'awa idan ka sha, kamar yadda Rivera da Kahlo suka yi a wasu lokuta, "tequila ko goma."
A cikin gari, titunan ba su da natsuwa sosai. Wasu an toshe su, kuma an sanya shinge a kusa da abubuwan tarihi na ƙasa. An sanya waɗannan ne bayan wani zanga-zangar mata 180,000, masu fushi game da yawan kisan mata a Mexico. Kimanin mata 2,500 ne ake kashewa kowace shekara, amma ƙasa da kashi uku ana lasafta su a matsayin kisan mata, ko da yake shaidu sun nuna ya kamata. Ƙasa da kashi ɗaya bisa huɗu na kisan mata suna haifar da hukunci.
Shin Kahlo za ta zana wannan fushi idan tana raye a yau? Ta riga ta yi. A cikin 1935's Unos Cuantos Piquetitos, ko A Few Small Nips, Kahlo ta sake ƙirƙirar labari daga jarida wanda ya sa ta yi fushi. Wata mace tana kwance a yanke kuma tsirara a kan gado mai jini, wanda mijinta ya kashe, wanda ke riƙe da wuka kuma daga baya ya yi watsi da laifinsa ga 'yan sanda da kalmomin da ke cikin taken. Da farko, ta haɗa da yaran, waɗanda suka ga dukan abin ban tsoro, amma yana da muni sosai, don haka an cire su.
Kahlo ta kuma zana a wani ɗakin aiki a gefen gari, a cikin unguwar bohemian ta San Ángel. Wani kyakkyawan gini ne mai hawa uku mai siffar akwati wanda aka yi masa fentin shuɗi na musamman. Wata gada a saman rufin tana haɗa shi da babban wurin aiki na Rivera—wani gini fari da ocher inda sau da yawa yakan yi aiki na sa'o'i 15 a rana.
An gina shi a kan layin Le Corbusier na zamani kuma yanzu yana cikin gidan kayan tarihi, waɗannan ɗakunan aiki sun haifar da tashin hankali lokacin da suka fara bayyana. Su ne ƙirƙira na constructivist marasa ado da ke zaune a tsakanin manyan gidaje na San Ángel, har yanzu suna kewaye da wani shinge mai kyau na dogayen sandunan cactus masu nisa daidai. Wannan hanya ce ga duka masu zane don kawo Mexico da yanayi a wuraren aikinsu.
Wurin aiki na Rivera yana da kyau, yana cike da tukwane da kayan tarihi daga tarin fasahar jama'a, duk an shirya su tare da zane-zane da tukunyar fenti. Akwai kusan yanayin biki: masks na mutuwa suna murmushi daga kujeru, tsana na Yahuda suna kallo da makirci a kusa da tagogi, kuma layukan waƙa na ƙasusuwa masu ban mamaki suna rawa da ƙarfi a bangon sama. Yana jin dacewa—bukukuwan a nan sun shahara, wanda shugabanni, masu juyin juya hali, da 'yan gudun hijira suka halarta, da kuma taurarin Hollywood kamar Charlie Chaplin.
A kan gada, sama da wanka a ɗakin bayan gida na Kahlo, za ka iya ganin kwafin What the Water Gave Me, zanenta na 1938 na ƙafafunta yayin da take wanka. Abubuwa suna yawo a kan ruwa, suna nuna al'amuran rayuwarta—daga tsire-tsire masu ban mamaki zuwa tsirara a kan gado zuwa dutsen mai aman wuta. Babu wani abu da yawa da za a gani a ɗakin aikinta; Kahlo ta tattara duk abubuwa ta tafi bayan ta kama Rivera a kan gado tare da 'yar uwarta. A cewar jagoran gidan kayan tarihi, ta gaya masa: "Zan ɗauki duk kayan daki na in fita daga nan saboda ina ƙin ka."
What the Water Gave Me shine zanen Kahlo da Helena Chávez Mac Gregor, marubuciyar...The Ribbon and the Bomb littafi ne game da yadda mahimmancin mai zane ke ci gaba da girma. Taken ya fito ne daga bayanin ɗan Faransa surrealist André Breton na aikin Kahlo a matsayin "ribbon a kusa da bam." Amma Mac Gregor tana tunanin "watakila babu ribbon, kawai bama-bamai," kuma waɗannan bama-bamai har yanzu suna fashewa fiye da lokacinta, yayin da sababbin tsararraki—mafi yawa mata—suna ganin kansu, jikinsu, sha'awarsu, da gwagwarmayarsu a cikin manyan ayyukanta.
"Akwai bam na rashin lafiyarta," in ji Mac Gregor, yayin da muke cin abincin rana a kyakkyawan San Ángel Inn, tsohon gidan sufi na Carmelite a gaban ɗakunan aiki, wanda ya shahara da lambuna da margaritas. "Tana da rauni, duk da haka tana da ƙarfi da sha'awa—ba abin da za ka yi tsammani daga wanda yake da rashin lafiya haka ba. Kuma ta kasance gaba da lokacinta, tana mai da na sirri siyasa, tana rayuwa bisa sharuɗɗanta, tana wasa da matsayin jinsi, da aske gashin kanta. Sannan akwai bama-bamai na kisan mata da zubar da ciki, ciki har da nata." Wannan ya kasance musamman don kare ƙashin ƙashinta da ya lalace. "Frida ta zana abubuwan da mutane ba sa magana akai. Ko da rashin lafiyarta—shekara ɗaya ta yi aiki ɗaya kawai—ta ƙirƙiri irin wannan kyakkyawa."
Duba hoto a cikin cikakken allo
'Bukukuwan sun shahara' ... Tsana na Yahuda, zane-zane, ƙasusuwa, da masks na mutuwa a ɗakin aiki na Rivera. Hoto: Courtesy Andrew Gilchrist
A bayyane yake farin ciki, Mac Gregor ta ƙara da cewa: "Frida yanzu ta fi Diego Rivera muhimmanci, wanda yake abin mamaki saboda ta zama mai zane da ta kasance saboda shi. Ya kasance ɗan Mexico mai son mata, amma yana ƙaunarta kuma yana tallafa mata. Kuma rubuce-rubucen da ya rubuta game da aikinta suna da ban mamaki, suna magana game da hotunan ciki da waje. Ya ce za ta zama mafi muhimmin mai zane a Mexico." Kahlo ba ta tsaya a can ba. Lokacin da The Dream (The Bed) ya sayar da dala miliyan 54.7 a 2025, ya kafa sabon rikodin duniya ga mace mai zane.
Tate tana da sa'a don samun kowane ɗayan ayyukanta, ganin yadda 'yan Mexico suke alfahari da kariya ga Kahlo, musamman tare da gasar cin kofin duniya da ta fara a ƙasarsu. Na ga wannan da kaina a Museo de Arte Moderno. Za ka iya ɗaukar lokacinka a gaban María Izquierdo, alal misali, amma idan ka daɗe da kallon Kahlo, ba da daɗewa ba za ka ji sauran baƙi suna matsa maka ka ci gaba.
Wannan ya faru da ni sau biyu: na farko a gaban The Two Fridas, inda take bincika asalinta na gauraye, tana tufatar da kanta ɗaya a cikin tufafin Turai da ɗayan a cikin na Mexico; kuma na biyu a Self-Portrait with Monkeys (duba sama), inda Kahlo, tare da ɗan gajeren gashin baki, aka nuna tare da huɗu daga cikin halittun da ta ajiye a matsayin dabbobi. Sau da yawa ana ganin su a matsayin wakiltar ɗalibai huɗu, waɗanda ake kira Los Fridos, waɗanda suka zauna tare da ita ko da yake lafiyarta ta sa koyarwa ta yi wuya. Kahlo ta kuma ce birai a cikin aikinta suna nuna yaran da ba ta iya haihuwa ba.
Babu ziyarar Mexico City da ta cika ba tare da tafiya kudu zuwa lambuna masu iyo da canals na Xochimilco ba, don hawa ɗaya daga cikin manyan kwale-kwale 500 masu launi, masu kama da gondola waɗanda ke tafiya a cikin hanyoyin ruwa masu cike da aiki. Kahlo tana son zuwa nan tare da danginta zuwa waɗannan canals, waɗanda Aztecs suka gina. Akwai wani shahararren hoto na fuskarta tana shawagi a kan ruwa, tana nuna kwanciyar hankali yayin da take tsoma hannunta har zuwa gwiwar hannu.
Duba hoto a cikin cikakken allo
Waƙa don £10 ... Axolotls suna hawa Rosamaria. Hoto: Courtesy Andrew Gilchrist
"Kowane kwale-kwale yana da sunan mace," in ji kyaftin na kwale-kwalenmu, Rosamaria, "saboda suna kama da furanni." Yayin da muka tashi, ƙananan kwale-kwale masu sauri suna wucewa, suna ɗauke da masu siyar da pulque da tacos. Ba da daɗewa ba, muna biye da ƙungiyoyin mariachi biyu masu ƙarfi—ɗaya ana kiransa Pintorescos (Picturesques), ɗayan kuma Axolotls, mai suna bayan ƙananan nau'in salamander mai hatsari kuma mai ban dariya da ke asalin waɗannan ruwaye. Axolotls sun yi nasara, suna hawa kwale-kwalenmu a cikin daƙiƙa kuma suna yin wasa don £10 a waƙa. Da farko, Cielito Lindo (Lovely Sweet One), tare da mawaƙa mai ban sha'awa, sannan ... Tabbas, La Bamba.
Yayin da Axolotls suka tafi da sauri a cikin haɗe-haɗe na igiyoyi, tagulla, da wando matsi, zaman lafiya ya dawo. Muna tafiya a hankali yayin da rana ta yi zafi sosai. Na bar hannuna ya rataya a cikin ruwan sanyi, kamar yadda Kahlo ta yi, kuma na tuna wani abu da Federico Valdez ya faɗa yayin da ya bayyana abinci na ƙarshe na liyafarsa—wani abinci mai kama da shinkafa a cikin miya na kankana, wanda aka wanke da giya daga apples na Chihuahua.
"Wannan kayan zaki zai ɓata tunaninka," in ji shi, yayin da hoton jana'izar Kahlo ya bayyana a allon bayansa. "Frida ta mutu—amma ba ta wuce ba. Ta kasance kamar roka. Ta tafi sama da sama."
Frida: The Making of an Icon yana Tate Modern, London, daga 25 ga Yuni zuwa 3 ga Janairu. Wannan tafiya ta samu ne daga Tate da Journey Latin America.
Tambayoyi da Aka Yi Yawa
Anan akwai jerin tambayoyi da aka yi yawa bisa ga bayanin ka da aka rubuta a cikin yanayin tattaunawa na halitta
Tambayoyi na Gabaɗaya
Q Menene Frida Kahlo Against the World
A Yana kama da wani abinci na musamman da ka ci ko ka ƙirƙira yayin tafiyarka zuwa Mexico City Bisa ga bayaninka, mai yiwuwa abinci ne mai yaji, mai ƙarfi, ko watakila mai sha'awa—watakila wani abu da chiles, cakulan, ko miya mai arziki wanda yake jin Frida sosai
Q Me yasa aka sanya wa abincin suna bayan Frida Kahlo
A Frida ta shahara da halinta mai sha'awa, mara nadama, da wuta Sanya sunan abinci mai zafi da sha'awa bayanta hanya ce ta wasa don girmama ruhinta—mai ƙarfi, mai launi, da cike da rayuwa
Q Menene Fridamania ke nufi
A Fridamania kalma ce don sha'awar duniya mai ƙarfi ga Frida Kahlo Ya haɗa da fasaharta, salon ta, siyasarta, da labarinta na sirri Makonka a Mexico City mai yiwuwa ya cika da ziyartar gidajen kayan tarihinta, cin abinci a wuraren da ke da alaƙa da Frida, da kuma jin tasirinta na al'ada
Tambayoyi na Aiki da Tafiya
Q A ina zan iya samun Frida Kahlo Against the World a Mexico City
A Wannan sunan na musamman yana kama da wani abinci na musamman ko na sirri Mai yiwuwa abinci ne a wani gidan cin abinci mai kyau a unguwar Coyoacán ko kuma abinci na ɗan lokaci Tambaya a wuraren da ke murnar abinci na Mexico tare da salon zamani na fasaha
Q Menene mafi kyawun gidajen cin abinci masu alaƙa da Frida a Mexico City
A Don cikakken kwarewar Fridamania, gwada Casa de Frida, El Cardenal, ko kowane gidan cin abinci a Roma Norte wanda ke ba da alta cocina tare da kayan abinci na asali Yawancin wurare suna ba da abinci da aka yi wahayi daga ƙaunarta na mole, chiles, da sabbin kayan abinci
Q Shin abincin yana da yaji sosai
